Oil Catch Can Install (1 Viewer)

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2020 LC HE.
I’m using my 'old 4Runner oil catch can'(baffled) that I find very effective and separating air in oil. Made the brackets for the 2020 LC-HE.
i’m using the circular clamp with a wing nut for quick release the can because I find it easier to just lift the can and unscrew the bottom when emptying it. That is instead of using the cans original top clamp where there’s not much space unscrewing the bottom of the can while its top is clamped onto the firewall.

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Joined
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Any proven benefit on a port injected Toyota V8???

There sure is !!! It catches about 1.5ml of oil from the PCV every 200 miles that would have otherwise been accumulating and saturating the intake manifold, coating the valves and piston heads in the long run. This is my keeper retirement vehicle and I’m definitely be taking care of it.
 
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Where did you source the catch can?
CapE, its just the inexpensive Tasan Racing from Amazon. I believe its a copy of the more expensive brands. Its baffled inside that makes it very effective. It catches a lot of oil. Its small though, doesnt look right for a LC :D but seriously in my opinion I should get a bigger one. Some buyers complain about leaks, but I think they just didnt put teflon tapes on the threads, :)
 

Taco2Cruiser

Rob @ BudBuilt Off Road
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This is what I got after 380 miles. This would have been coating the intake manifold.

View attachment 2465987
I think it’s great that you care for your 200, and I can definitely relate to wanting to keep a cruiser forever.
But, that oil being burnt during the power stroke is not going to cause any measurable increase in wear over the life of that engine.

Totally being sincere when I say this, but what first hand experience have you seen that makes you think other wise?

I’m not God’s gift to the engine world, but I do know my way around them, ASE A1-8, built a few 1500+hp motors, but not at any profession race builder level.

So I always like to learn from others. That’s why I try and go into everything with an open mind.
 
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This is what I got after 380 miles.

I think it’s great that you care f.....with an open mind.
Noted. Thanks. My take is; would I rather have a clean intake manifold, valves, my preference is YES. and of course im definitely telling everyone to do this , just posted this for those who are interested in installing oil catch cans. I used to race cars and seen the effect of the oil film and carbon build up.
 
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I put one on my 4.0L v6, and catch a lot of stuff too. Especially during these colder months itll catch a ton of vapor and the catch can resembles chocolate milk. I am happy to not have that recirculated, though I know it would just burn off.
 
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Clean install

The 3UR-FE uses indirect injection. Small amounts of oil in the intake path are not a point of concern for this engine. The 3UR-FE has an air oil separator referred to as a "Separator Case". Turbocharged & DI engines may see benefits from oil catch cans depending on the design of the OE separator which is frequently included with the PCV valve assy.

Racing engines are a whole different bag of worms and I have yet to see a PCV system fitted to a race engine.
 
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TeCKis300

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IMO, it's solving a problem that's not there. Not in an N/A OEM validated engine proven over the test of time. I don't bother with them even in my highly boosted sports cars.

You may want to know that it creates a maintenance step that potentially could be a problem if not adhered to. I've had one buddy that had one installed on his boosted 2JZ twin turbo. Sure, nice, it catches oil. He didn't stay on top of it, and it overflowed. Unfortunately, dripped where it shouldn't and the oil residue caught fire after a hard pull. Did some damage, but fortunately it wasn't a total loss.
 
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..You may want to know that it creates a maintenance step that potentially could be a problem if not adhered to. I've had one buddy that had one installed on his boosted 2JZ twin turbo. Sure, nice, it catches oil. He didn't stay on top of it, and it overflowed. Unfortunately, dripped where it shouldn't and the oil residue caught fire after a hard pull. Did some damage, but fortunately it wasn't a total loss.
I am very much aware of that. I can see that with the folks that install it and doesnt know how yo maintain it. I worked on naval aircrafts for 30 years, I wouldn’t install some thing that needs maintenance and neglect it. I empty mine every 300miles- configured on the LC mileage timer and on my phone cal reminder. // Also you may want to check your intake manifold after a couple of thousands of miles and see how much grime buildup is in it from all that oil.
 
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Clean install

The 3UR-FE uses indirect injection. Small amounts of oil in the intake path are not a point of concern for thisThe 3UR-FE has an air oil separator referred to as a "Separator Case". Turbocharged & DI engines may see benefits from oil catch cans depending on the design of the OE separator which is frequently included with the PCV valve assy.

Racing engines are a whole different bag of worms and I have yet to see a PCV system fitted to a race engine.

respectfully disagree. You’re a gas engine PCV injects the oil back into your intake manifold. you may want to check your intake manifold after a couple of thousands of miles and see how much grime buildup in it from all that oil.
 

Taco2Cruiser

Rob @ BudBuilt Off Road
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respectfully disagree. You’re a gas engine PCV injects the oil back into your intake manifold. you may want to check your intake manifold after a couple of thousands of miles and see how much grime buildup in it from all that oil.
Got 130k on my plastic intake manifold, doesn’t look like anything I would be worried about in there. There are no sensors down stream of where the oil is reintroduced back in. So what’s it matter?
 
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Got 130k on my plastic intake manifold, doesn’t look like anything I would be worried about in there. There are no sensors down stream of where the oil is reintroduced back in. So what’s it matter?
Why do you think they port and polish intake manifolds?

Fouling your air-fuel mixture/combustion too, and carbon build ups on valves and plugs.
 
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Taco2Cruiser

Rob @ BudBuilt Off Road
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Why do you think they port and polish intake manifolds?

Fouling your air-fuel mixture/combustion too, and carbon build ups on valves and plugs.
As someone who has, personally port and polished intakes, built multiple 1500 hp motors, and has ASE A1 and A8 certificates, I can tell you don’t really understand how this works. Polishing is to make a smooth surface, how do you plan to do that to plastic? But that doesn’t matter, because oil... is smooth. Gasp.

Your intake valves are fouled by low detergent gas, run a top tier gas and your intake valves will be spotless. Your plugs... it doesn’t work like that. “Fouling your air/fuel mix,” your exhaust valves close 3° early to hold back around 10% of the exhaust stroke gasses. Then the engine will give 90% new air/fuel mix, and reburn that last combustion strokes mix. So if you think an ounce of API SN oil every 400 miles is somehow hurting you power output, you’ll wake up in a cold sweat that your engine purposely keeps hundreds of gallons of toxic gas mix inside itself to recycle that also.

Also, ever wonder how people can run 10k miles, but the oil level doesn’t go down, but the engine is burning some of its own oil through the PCV? Fuel. Your engine oil has fuel delusion, that is compensating for the lost oil. Or how about that every time your engine cools down, condensation forms. Then must be boiled off again. Literally hundreds of gallons of water every oil change interval is produced and boiled off again with every time you let the engine cool.

Catch cans on a port injected engines are like adding those tornado things in your intake, they don’t do anything that will increase an engines longevity or power output.

Run you motor for 100k then tear it down to the heads and show me proof. Don’t take someone else word for it, or what someone says works well, but they have never torn down a motor, and measured every little piece.

If it makes you sleep good at night, then fine, but for everyone out there, don’t waste your time, your engine won’t last a mile longer. There are many other aspects of an ICE that are recycling burnt hydrocarbons, and you’ll never stop that.
 
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Whiskerz

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These seem to be the trend lately on a lot of more recent higher performance engines. Ford even offers a set for the new Shelby and GT's. Guy claim it picks up a little oil that would otherwise burn through the engine. I wonder if a side effect would be better life out of the cats. I have seen a lot oil and fuel related build up on the back of valves on older fuel injected engines.
 

bloc

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As someone who has, personally port and polished intakes, built multiple 1500 hp motors, and has ASE A1 and A8 certificates, I can tell you don’t really understand how this works. Polishing is to make a smooth surface, how do you plan to do that to plastic? But that doesn’t matter, because oil... is smooth. Gasp.

Your intake valves are fouled by low detergent gas, run a top tier gas and your intake valves will be spotless. Your plugs... it doesn’t work like that. “Fouling your air/fuel mix,” your exhaust valves close 3° early to hold back around 10% of the exhaust stroke gasses. Then the engine will give 90% new air/fuel mix, and reburn that last combustion strokes mix. So if you think an ounce of API SN oil every 400 miles is somehow hurting you power output, you’ll wake up in a cold sweat that your engine purposely keeps hundreds of gallons of toxic gas mix inside itself to recycle that also.

Also, ever wonder how people can run 10k miles, but the oil level doesn’t go down, but the engine is burning some of its own oil through the PCV? Fuel. Your engine oil has fuel delusion, that is compensating for the lost oil. Or how about that every time your engine cools down, condensation forms. Then must be boiled off again. Literally hundreds of gallons of water every oil change interval is produced and boiled off again with every time you let the engine cool.

Catch cans on a port injected engines are like adding those tornado things in your intake, they don’t do anything that will increase an engines longevity or power output.

Run you motor for 100k then tear it down to the heads and show me proof. Don’t take someone else word for it, or what someone says works well, but they have never torn down a motor, and measured every little piece.

If it makes you sleep good at night, then fine, but for everyone out there, don’t waste your time, your engine won’t last a mile longer. There are many other aspects of an ICE that are recycling burnt hydrocarbons, and you’ll never stop that.
It might even be worse than the OEM system because it adds a potential point of failure that wasn’t there in the first place.
 

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