Oil buildup on Axles

Joined
Sep 11, 2018
Messages
2
Location
Chicagoland
1974 FJ 40 shows some oil buidup on the axles and I see drips when the vehicle is parked. Looking for some advice on adding the proper fluid back into the axle as a temporary fix until I can get it to a decent repair shop familiar with Cruisers. Any links for thoughts from the community would be appreciated.

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Joined
Jan 6, 2004
Messages
1,340
Check your fluid levels, it’s either engine oil(prob not) or Trans / t case or rear diff. All take 80/90 gear oil. Top off the low one and run it. I would degrease it underneath and then know exactly what’s leaking. Pinion seal, t case output seals are 1-2 banana 🍌 jobs .
 
Joined
May 6, 2020
Messages
620
Location
Seattle
There should be a fill plug on the back. Pull it and put in gear oil until it starts spilling out. I'd just run some cheap 80-90w until you get it fixed. Don't let it run dry!!!

I'd say pinion seal also but I don't see much wetness around there. It could be the 3rd member seal, the rear cover seal, or your fill or drain plug. Like @CRZR45 said, you be doing the shop a favor by blasting that thing clean and putting a few miles on it so the mechanic can tell what is actually leaking by observing the freshly leaking oil.
 
Joined
May 6, 2020
Messages
620
Location
Seattle
Check your fluid levels, it’s either engine oil(prob not) or Trans / t case or rear diff. All take 80/90 gear oil. Top off the low one and run it. I would degrease it underneath and then know exactly what’s leaking. Pinion seal, t case output seals are 1-2 banana 🍌 jobs .
Agreed, this should be something you check on the regular. While your at it check the front diff, t-case, and trans. Same method, same fluid. If you are unsure of what's in there now or have never changed the fluids, I'd drain them completely and refill.
 
Joined
Dec 2, 2002
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16,909
Location
Helena MT
use a 6 point socket and grind it down, so you get full engagement with the plug
 
Joined
Apr 21, 2005
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22,276
use a 6 point socket and grind it down, so you get full engagement with the plug
Then switch to the 10 MM allen head style.

Grind it down?
The early diff plug had a large hex head on the diffs. Later are very shallow. Most sockets do not have a sharp end. Grinding the end down will get a better bite on the plug head.
I have used vise grip and smack the vise grip with a big hammer. Generally once loose plug comes right off. I have even used a socket with a long cheater then used a floor jack. Anytime I disassemble any drive train gear I loosen the fill and drain plugs first. Besides being easier to get at the large mass prevent having to back up something loose on the ground.
 
Joined
Dec 2, 2002
Messages
16,909
Location
Helena MT
if you look inside a socket, you will see a bevel or chamfer, grind the socket down so there is no more bevel/chamfer.

X2 on making sure the fill plug is loose before draining any oil
 
Joined
May 14, 2016
Messages
2,183
Location
Arizona
Pretty basic. The differential seal has put spewing oil for years and it has encrusted the area. I am sure if you tune up your OLD axle , you will be fine. Also be sure the surfaces are flat and adhere to proper sealing methods so you do the correct job. I did this and used NEW hardware and made sure the surfaces were correct.
 

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