Offroad capable trailer (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jul 30, 2003
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I am looking for a trailer that I could buy/build that is reliable and not to much of a henderance to pull in the woods during hunting season/and putting my ATV on. I look at the ones I see for sell and they want 1-1.5k for them and I am certian the first trail I pulled it thru would be the last for the trailer. Let me know what you think fella's
 
I found a place locally that makes torsional trailer axles and the prices don't seem to bad. With a torsional axle I shouldn't get hung on the axle near as much. The axle I am looking at is rated to 2500lb and including 6 lug hubs they want 868.00 for it. I should be able to get all the steel I need for about 250. Maybe I will try to build a tube trailer as I haven;t hardly used the new bender.
 
If you have a good trailer supply near you check into getting a dropped axle assembled upside down. Will give outstanding ground clearance
 
I bought a 4 x 8 trailer from the local dealer for around $380. 2.5" angle, PT bead and steel open sides. I bought a sheet of mesh and covered the sides. I flipped the axle SOA and added 15" tires and a spare. I have around $600 into it and it will go anywhere i do. I plan to add a HD 6 lug axle soon.
 
I was asking the same question on other offroad boards and a guy from alaska used a subaru for his trailer and his turned out pretty sweet. The subaru has a torsional rear and offers huge ground clearance with stock tires. I plan to build the trailer 5X7 with removable sides to use as loading ramps for the atv.
According to the guy I need to find an early 80's subaru (shouldn't be a problem at pull and save)
I will post pictures as I build it. I am going looking for an axle this weekend.
 
Army trailers are simple, light, and strong as, a length of 3" pipe, the hitch on the end, with 4" x 2" angle with a hole for the 3" pipe in the middle of the 4" section, so they slip over the pipe and make the "outriggers" for the floor and spring hangers, 4"x2" angle welded over the ends of the outriggers running front to back of the floor make the spring hanger rails, a 3" drop axle with same tyres as your rig and stud pattern, and some marine ply and you have a trailer 2 guys can lift with a flat floor, that will last many many years. Army trailers have boxed sides which make the fenders with a storage box fore and aft of the arch area in each side and 2 x 3/4 removable pipe hoops for the canvas cover to stretch over, great for sleeping, camping, carting.

A normal axle will still ride over anything your tow vehicle diffs will miss though.
 
I like these but I need it a tad larger than these for the fact I need it to be able to hold 2 4wd atv's plus an elk or two. I am in the process of building one right now with a torsional rear axle out of a subaru wagon. I am converting the axle to 6 on 5.5 and am going to be running a set of 34X9.5 swampers so that I can carry only one spare it is close enough to 35X12.5 it should work pretty well. My computer refuses to load my pictures off my camera for some reason. As soon as I figure it out I will post pictures.
 
We tried the trailer route and hated it. Before you invest a lot of time and energy into building one, I'd recommend you borrow someone's.
Things I would do to make the trailer experience better: 1) Must be pintle hook or other off-road dedicated hitch design.
2) I'd include shocks. But then washboard roads are an everyday occurance for me
3) SOA is good. Torsion axle could be better- more clearance is always good.
4) A sturdy lid that can withstand at least 400lbs (two people)
5) tow points on the rear- best would be a way to switch the tongue around and attach it to the rear
6) a hitch mount on the front of your tow-rig. That way when the *&$%^!! trailer gets stuck you have the option of detaching from it and attacking the problem head on. Or if you want to park the thing in a tight camping spot, you can see what you are doing

Having said all that: I'm lousy at driving a trailer. The trailer we had was a POS. The area we were wheeling in had a lot of corrugated (washboard) roads and sand, neither of which is fun with a trailer no matter how good the trailer is.

I think there are some pictures/writeup of our experiences with the trailer on sandcruiser.com. Try serching for Gimp or Trailer

Best of luck
 
What hell is this "3&quote " It's really annoying.
I'm looking into a Military Hummer trailer. Very heavy Duty, about $800-$1200.
 
boerboel313 said:
What hell is this "3&quote " It's really annoying.
I'm looking into a Military Hummer trailer. Very heavy Duty, about $800-$1200.


Where do you find HMMWV trailers for $800-$1000? The matched HMMWV trailers are aluminum and have the matching beadlock wheels.

John
 
desertdude said:
A bit pricey but filled with great ideas... they even have a kit you can weld up--- http://www.4x4trailers.com/

I talked to the owner about a year ago, and she was closing the business down. These trailers are pretty good - I have inspected, but not actually used, one.

That said, it is pretty easy to buy an HD axle with springs, U bolts, shackles, etc. from Northern Tool (the HD is 6 on 5-1/2" - same as your Cruiser), fab up a frame from 2-2/2" sqaure steel tubing, and go from there.

I had Wayne Percival build my trailer, as described above, and have towed it over 5000 miles in the past year. It is SOA, same wheel to wheel width as my 60, ans pulls well - it's great.

199348.jpg
 
Hammerhead...or any one else.

What exactly is involved with having the axles flipped upside down on the trailer. I have access to a tent trailer, and if this would help increase ground clearance, might be worth something. I only want to take it down dirt roads, really minor stuff, eg. fire roads.
 
did the flip of the axle myself
worked well, have something like 17" of clearance now
obviously need droop axles...
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