Official Cast Iron thread- Lets see em (2 Viewers)

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My camping cast iron; a pair of unbranded skillets and a couple of Lodge 10" dutch ovens.

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My camping cast iron; a pair of unbranded skillets and a couple of Lodge 10" dutch ovens.

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@AirheadNut
Coincidentally enough, i just happen to have this tab open on my phone just now. 😆

 
We really enjoy our Stargazer pans. They are machined smooth like cast iron used to be. We also have a 1940's machined Lodge "chicken fryer" pan.
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Haven’t caught this thread before. I was given a new 12” cast deep pan with a “modern” preseasoned finish and gritty type surface, it works but leaves a little to be desired. Don’t like the over textured surface and the “painted on” looking seasoning, not natural.
So, just recently inherited my step mom’s stuff and found a whole stack of well seasoned old cast pans in the kitchen.:bounce:
She was from small town East Texas (chikken n co’n bread type of place) and these were her mother’s pans and no telling how long before that.
After reading this thread I can’t wait to get back over there and really give them a looking over.
 
Had a chance to check the cast iron pans I found, few pics below. Really nice vintage-ish pans, a few appear to be Wagner from what I can find searching cast marks, hard to say on others.
Really good cast irons, smooth finish with years of seasoning on them, what I thought was corrosion was soft blackened “patina”. One is a deep chicken fryer with LOTS of patina. Part of me wants to grind them clean, re-season and start over...or leave it and use as is. Likely the latter.

Few samples...

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The scratched ones, maybe use oven cleaner or bake in oven's clean cycle to strip them rather than mechanical stripping, then reseason...
I really like this reasoning, justification, and method. 🤘👍

Just found this one too, the biologist in me is psyched at the description of protein bonding with metals and van der Waals forces (also had to read past the spelling and grammar errors though 😆🤐)!! 🤘👍
 
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My new 16"Lodge (Christmas present)....this mornings sausage gravey...biskits are in the oven...house camping in Roxbury NY

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Scored this 6" treasure at a ReStore a few weeks ago. In process of seasoning it. . .
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has a unique smoothing pattern on the cooking surface, yet is quite smooth...
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the only label is a lightly stamped 3A on the bottom
 
Scored this 6" treasure at a ReStore store a few weeks ago. In process of seasoning it. . .
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has a unique smoothing pattern on the cooking surface, yet is quite smooth...
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the only label is a lightly stamped 3A on the bottom
Okay, 6 coats of the FLax oil treatment as prescribed... Baked in on the grill @ 500deg for an our then natural cool down to ambient temp...
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Now to test it!!

*Edit still in progress to perfection...
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NEXT in line...

I scored a couple casties which need love on my trip to ' the big city' 😆

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1st is an 8" fry pan exactly like another I'd rescued...The other score is a round griddle, that's cracked...

here's the recovered and seasoned 8" I use regularly now...
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So... seeking opinions and experience on recovery for these... 🤔
I've done the de-rusting electrolytic bath for RR plates and spike and could doo same for the 8" fry pan. But what do you all think?

I've given some other castie recovery info which I've seen/read but not yet tried myself (oven cleaner to un season to allow a re-season treatment), but what do you think what should I do for the 8" fry pan? de-rust then re-seaon? It looks smooth so i don't think i want to try and sand the surface, but maybe could with 220 or some good fine stuff...

And the griddle, I'm not sure on that one... it's cracked all the way through, looks epoxied or glued so sketch for sure.... but is there hope?


I've welded a cracked dutchie lid, but that's not as heat-critical as the base of a griddle.... Would addressing the crack via solid steel weld be okay, or would/could it impart a different heat sink making it potentially a bomb? Am I overthinking that?
I could just grind to bevel then bead it up, flap disk it to a good base surface then season it, but something in the back of my head says welding cast iron is ... doable but potentially sketchy...
 
Looking for a small/medium sized SQUARE cast iron fry pan.

Reason: easier to carry sideways in kitchen box w/o rolling. Easier to pack around.
Interested in what you find...

I still use one of my folding handled teflon backpacking frypans in the camp box because it's just easier. Lots of the time I'll use one of my dutch ovens for same. They do just as well on the stove as they do over a fire...
 
NEXT in line...

I scored a couple casties which need love on my trip to ' the big city' 😆

View attachment 2728017
1st is an 8" fry pan exactly like another I'd rescued...The other score is a round griddle, that's cracked...

here's the recovered and seasoned 8" I use regularly now...
View attachment 2728018

So... seeking opinions and experience on recovery for these... 🤔
I've done the de-rusting electrolytic bath for RR plates and spike and could doo same for the 8" fry pan. But what do you all think?

I've given some other castie recovery info which I've seen/read but not yet tried myself (oven cleaner to un season to allow a re-season treatment), but what do you think what should I do for the 8" fry pan? de-rust then re-seaon? It looks smooth so i don't think i want to try and sand the surface, but maybe could with 220 or some good fine stuff...

And the griddle, I'm not sure on that one... it's cracked all the way through, looks epoxied or glued so sketch for sure.... but is there hope?


I've welded a cracked dutchie lid, but that's not as heat-critical as the base of a griddle.... Would addressing the crack via solid steel weld be okay, or would/could it impart a different heat sink making it potentially a bomb? Am I overthinking that?
I could just grind to bevel then bead it up, flap disk it to a good base surface then season it, but something in the back of my head says welding cast iron is ... doable but potentially sketchy...
There's a certain heating/cooling ritual you need to do when welding cast iron. It needs to cool a lot slower than rolled/solid steel. I think you need some sort of heat sink, like a heated sand pit to dip it in. Not hard, but time consuming.
 
I don't check in here much, because it usually just makes me hungry.

:doh:
 
NEXT in line...

I scored a couple casties which need love on my trip to ' the big city' 😆

View attachment 2728017
1st is an 8" fry pan exactly like another I'd rescued...The other score is a round griddle, that's cracked...

here's the recovered and seasoned 8" I use regularly now...
View attachment 2728018

So... seeking opinions and experience on recovery for these... 🤔
I've done the de-rusting electrolytic bath for RR plates and spike and could doo same for the 8" fry pan. But what do you all think?

I've given some other castie recovery info which I've seen/read but not yet tried myself (oven cleaner to un season to allow a re-season treatment), but what do you think what should I do for the 8" fry pan? de-rust then re-seaon? It looks smooth so i don't think i want to try and sand the surface, but maybe could with 220 or some good fine stuff...

And the griddle, I'm not sure on that one... it's cracked all the way through, looks epoxied or glued so sketch for sure.... but is there hope?


I've welded a cracked dutchie lid, but that's not as heat-critical as the base of a griddle.... Would addressing the crack via solid steel weld be okay, or would/could it impart a different heat sink making it potentially a bomb? Am I overthinking that?
I could just grind to bevel then bead it up, flap disk it to a good base surface then season it, but something in the back of my head says welding cast iron is ... doable but potentially sketchy...
Quick / dirty of cast iron - pre-heat like a mother, use TR-99 rod in a DC stick welder (IDK of any mig wire in cast) - and then stress relieving via post-heating the surface.

I had to weld cast on a few occasions when it was my turn, and the TR-99 rod was both root and filler for a certain spot in a process unit.
It flowed well, great on root pass & even when I came back to (over)fill the crack as that unit had problem spots & was rarely shutdown.
We were supposed to just root w/ the 99 & use the other for build up - but nobody had great luck with the lesser nickel rod, so we quit trying & just 99’d it all.
Real world vs books. :meh:

The extra carbon in cast is PITA, why you either need the versatile 99 rod or there’s another (TBH, I never used it, IDK the label printed on the flux - it was the problem rod from above).

We had specific ceramic bead blankets protection the heater wires, we covered the areas & ceramic bead blankets w/ rock wool & let heat for 48hrs & would cool over ~24hrs.

IDK the temps - running the blankets wasn’t my job - seem to recall 750* , but my memory stinks.

IDK if there is MIG wire for cast, otherwise it’s back to good ol’ stickin’ it.

HTH
 
Mentioned these awhile back in this thread. "Inherited" these irons last year after my step mom passed, finally had a chance to grab them.

Really nice, old smooth finish pans. Didn't realize the almost perfect size assortment until I stacked them, can already tell a couple of the smaller pans will be my favorites. They need to be scrubbed well and re-seasoned. She also had a bottle of flaxseed oil stashed away with the pans...she knew the right way.

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