Off The Beaten Path Restoration (1 Viewer)

[ranma21]

Nothing is better than new Genuine Toyota cv axles. Proven and last a long time.

New dust seals and gasket installed.

Pulled the spline out as much as possible and added the appropriate thickness new snap ring. The Knipex plier is a joy to use in this application.

Button up with new OE flange and grease cap.

 

[ranma21]

Ran into flange bolt that is not very smooth, so it is replaced with new bolt.

Steering arm torque down according to factory spec 108 ft.lbs and loctite added to ensure it won't come loose called by FSM.

Found that both side inner rod ends has play, so replaced with Sankei 555 Japan inner rod ends and new OE rack boots. Has both items in stock, so knock them out right away.

Gotta wait for a few days for the rack boot clamps to come in.

Nice new inner rod end with new boots installed. Steering is tight now. Better control. =)

 

[blinder52]

I’m digging this thread... thank you, thank you

 

[bozncsurf]

This LX should be set for a long time! Awesome work - thanks for documenting and sharing!

 

[bozncsurf]

Wish you lived closer!

 

[blinder52]

Excited to try out my newly acquired Toyota SST master replacer set with different sizes replacer. So much easier with this set with all the sizes I need to work on different series LC. Loving it.

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Don't think I will use my OTC set anymore. Bought new and only used once, it is frustrated when you can't find the size you need to get the job done efficiently.
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New bearing and seals going in after cleaning up and wipe clean the hub.
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Perfect fit with the 89mm replacer for bearing race installation.
View attachment 2503741

Excited to try out my newly acquired Toyota SST master replacer set with different sizes replacer. So much easier with this set with all the sizes I need to work on different series LC. Loving it.

View attachment 2503737

Don't think I will use my OTC set anymore. Bought new and only used once, it is frustrated when you can't find the size you need to get the job done efficiently.
View attachment 2503738

New bearing and seals going in after cleaning up and wipe clean the hub.
View attachment 2503739

View attachment 2503740

Perfect fit with the 89mm replacer for bearing race installation.
View attachment 2503741

I used my bearing driver set once as well. Seemed like a good idea but in reality they are pretty useless.

 

[ranma21]

I used my bearing driver set once as well. Seemed like a good idea but in reality they are pretty useless.

Depending what you do, if you service your own rig, you may use once or twice. I use quite frequent on customer rigs and my own restoration. The Toyota SST master replacer set is very useful not just for bearing race, also installer and removal for bearing, seal on different component of the truck and designed to use in press as well. Only down side is it costs an arm and a leg! Now the OTC set I have is good too but not complete in sizes I need and made of aluminium instead of steel like Toyota replacer set.

 

[ranma21]

This LX should be set for a long time! Awesome work - thanks for documenting and sharing!

Yes that is the goal =)

 

[OwnerCS]

Nice job. I do things like this and call it a "midlife refresh" to setup the vehicle for another 15+ years of minimal maintenance. I often find parts store starters or some other latent issue waiting for a place to happen.

Two questions:

I'm having difficulty finding part ignition rod number 25280-60510. Is this the correct part number for the ignition rod?

Did you replace the coolant crossover pipe gaskets?

 

[ranma21]

Nice job. I do things like this and call it a "midlife refresh" to setup the vehicle for another 15+ years of minimal maintenance. I often find parts store starters or some other latent issue waiting for a place to happen.

Two questions:

I'm having difficulty finding part ignition rod number 25280-60510. Is this the correct part number for the ignition rod?

Did you replace the coolant crossover pipe gaskets?

It is 45280-60510. Wrong part number that is why you couldn’t find it. No, I did not perform water pump timing belt replacement job on this truck as it was done less than 10k miles ago.

 

[ranma21]

Found the stabilizer bar link bushings bad as well, so replacing the all stabilizer bushings and link to further tighten up the suspension. I am so used to easy hardware removal working on southern no rust truck. So one of the right bolt got me, I used a extra long ratchet wrench to remove the bolt, felt some resistance, kept going and voila by the time I knew it will snap is too late!! =( Try using locking plier, stud removal, nothing work. I hate to drill it out and doing so meaning more down time, has to remove the torsion bar to gain clearance.

Cursing for a bit, then mixed up some ATF and acetone solution as my penetrating oil and spray over it, let it sit over night, torch it for few minutes, punch it with chisel. Then use locking plier again, it turns!! I was so excited that I don't have to remove the torsion bad and doing the "drill" work. Lesson learn again, always spray some penetration oil on the right stabilizer bar bushing bracket bolts before removing them, this are is notorious for rust as AC condensation drip through this area. Never happen to me in many 100 I work on, to rust belt tech this is child play, lol =)

Button up with new bushings and links.

 

[blinder52]

Replacing ignition rod as preventive maintenance as well, as the 100 ages, the ignition rod became a weak link which can leave driver stranded. So we are eliminating that possibility before it happens. We are replacing the rod itself, not the assembly housing. It takes more labor to replace the assembly and it is not necessary as the weak link is only the rod.

View attachment 2486910

Can you guess which is the new replacement rod?!

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View attachment 2486913
The left side is the old rod and the one on the right is the new rod, as you can tell the new replacement rod is thicker. Apparently Toyota is aware of the issue and redesign the rod.

I really appreciate this link so much, thank you. So much good info and including the part numbers is very considerate. I’m curious about ignition rods. Surely at some point in the 100 series production run Toyota started using the studier rod. Nothing is ever done for the right reason. It had to be about warranty claims. I wish there was a way to determine at what VIN number the part was switched out. Thanks again for documenting this project.

 

[merbesfield]

Has anyone seen a post like this but with 2005 part nos? I know I can look them up, but this stuff really helps.

 

[merbesfield]

Did you do the UCA and LCA bushings or since low miles not needed?

 

[ranma21]

Did you do the UCA and LCA bushings or since low miles not needed?

Not the UCA and LCA yet, the owner talked about it possibly doing all other bushings this year.

 

[merbesfield]

Not the UCA and LCA yet, the owner talked about it possibly doing all other bushings this year.

Do you press the bushings out or replace entire arm?

 

[ranma21]

Do you press the bushings out or replace entire arm?

Depends on the customer's request, either replace new OE Toyota arms or replace OE Toyota bushings with Sankei 555 ball joints.