OEM part numbers for rear axle rebuild

Cruiser804

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I do someplace. I'll see if I can find it tomorrow. But the easiest and surest way to make sure you get everything you need is to call Dan at American Toyota.

You'll need the SST also. Some have fashioned them from sockets and such but Dan proably has a couple on hand as well.
 
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Great thanks.

I have a local guy that has been good to me over the years, I prefer to keep giving him my business for now. Thanks for the suggestion though. I may have to call Dan about the tools if my guy can't sell them.
 
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For the SST, you can also use a 6-lug 4wd spindle nut socket from Autozone or Advanced Auto. It's for a Dana 60, but works pretty well. The Autozone part# is 27046 and costs $15. It's a loaner tool at Autozone, so if you bring it back you will get your money refunded.

Not as pretty as the tool from CDan, but it will do the job.
Looks like this:
grn27046003.jpg


http://www.autozone.com/selectedZip,49424/initialAction,accessoryProductDetail/initialR,NONAPP24176/shopping/selectZip.htm
 
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What's involved in rear rebuilt. Once there what needs to done. For example, is the e-brake should be serviced?

I couldn't find an extensive write up on the rear, like the front rebuilt write up.
For newbies, like me, it is helpful to understand how long a rear rebuilt should take and how much the parts will cost. The reason for my asking is that I like to budget for maintenance, not waiting until it needs it. Thanks in advance for any information on rear rebuilt.

Rami
 

Cruiser804

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It will take you a good part of the day. 8 hours.

You can check the prices here.

http://www.toyotapartscheap.com/

There are a couple good links in FAQ. There seem short but really when you get into the job it is very basic and not too much
explanation
 
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What's involved in rear rebuilt. Once there what needs to done. For example, is the e-brake should be serviced?

Just last week I did the following:
- Rear Axle Seals & Re-Pack the Wheel Bearings
- New Rear Rotors and Brake Pads
- Completely replaced all the rusted eBrake hardware (dang salt) and adjusted
- Pack the bell crank boots with lithium grease to help keep out moisture
- Change Rear Diff Oil (I waited a few days to do this)

I did one axle side per evening over two evenings, and kept my weekend free. I had the downloaded FSM and several threads from the FAQ printed out as reference. I was up pretty late the first night because this was my first time on the rear axle. The other side was much easier after I knew what I was in for. The other side also had a bad oil seal which meant the grease was all washed out already. Just diff oil in the bearings. Much quicker cleanup of that side.

Other related info:
If you have locking rear diff, make sure to lock it before starting. I followed other's advise of jacking the side I was servicing higher than the other to keep diff fluid from running out. When putting the PS axle shaft back in, I had a problem getting it to go in the last inch. Very frustrating since I had to drive it the next day and it was getting late. After fighting with it for an hour, I Finally thought to rotate the opposite tire a fraction, which helped mesh up all the teeth correctly and let it go the rest of the way in. Since my oil seals on one side were shot and all the grease washed out into the diff oil, I changed the diff oil a few days later to make sure it was fresh & clean. Pack the bell crank boots on the ebrake with grease to keep it working smoothly and moisture out so rust can't set in. Good luck. This site is a great resource for all this service. Use the search and the FAQ.
 

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