I'm finishing up the install job with new OEM Pads/Rotors and was wondering if this StopTech break in is necessary or beneficial.
Opinions welcomed.
DMX
Opinions welcomed.
DMX
Last edited:
OEM Pads / Rotors ~ StopTech Break-in Necessary? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter DMX84
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You always want to "bed in" new pads and rotors. The process I use is:
Over the course of 2-3 miles, make 4-5 moderate stops from 60mph down to about 10mph - avoid coming to a complete stop.
Next, make 2-3 hard stops from 60mph to about 10mph. Again, avoid coming to a complete stop.
Finally, after your last "hard stop", continue driving around for about 5 minutes. This should allow the rotors to cool down.
Over the course of 2-3 miles, make 4-5 moderate stops from 60mph down to about 10mph - avoid coming to a complete stop.
Next, make 2-3 hard stops from 60mph to about 10mph. Again, avoid coming to a complete stop.
Finally, after your last "hard stop", continue driving around for about 5 minutes. This should allow the rotors to cool down.
- Thread starter
- #3
61 views and only one reply....
So most must think it's not necessary, and I tend to agree.
I suspect if you had something special than the break in might be necessary.
I needed to run to Santa fe and tried to use the brakes as little as possible (IE: used low gear to slow down on MT roads). When at a stop light I didn't sit there with my foot on the brake.
On the way home I did 3 or 4 hard stops 65- 10 the last stop seemed better than the first. After the hard stops I had ~ 15 miles to arrive home. I checked the hub temps and were what I believe is normal for that drive.
Outside temp was 66*f
Left hub 96.8*
Left Rotor 90.4*
Right hub 92.2*
Right Rotor 87.1*
Right Rear Rotor 93.3*
Left Rear Rotor 91.8*
Next weekend I'll be breaking in my breaks on the mountain roads pulling my trailer. I'll take my inferred thermometer and keep an eye on things.
DMX
So most must think it's not necessary, and I tend to agree.
I suspect if you had something special than the break in might be necessary.
I needed to run to Santa fe and tried to use the brakes as little as possible (IE: used low gear to slow down on MT roads). When at a stop light I didn't sit there with my foot on the brake.
On the way home I did 3 or 4 hard stops 65- 10 the last stop seemed better than the first. After the hard stops I had ~ 15 miles to arrive home. I checked the hub temps and were what I believe is normal for that drive.
Outside temp was 66*f
Left hub 96.8*
Left Rotor 90.4*
Right hub 92.2*
Right Rotor 87.1*
Right Rear Rotor 93.3*
Left Rear Rotor 91.8*
Next weekend I'll be breaking in my breaks on the mountain roads pulling my trailer. I'll take my inferred thermometer and keep an eye on things.
DMX
Dean,
I don't know the answer however by bedding in the brake pads and rotors via StopTech's recommended procedure you can't go wrong IMO. Although I don't use OEM pads and rotors I adhere to the same basic bedding procedure on my ART rotors and Porterfield pads and would do so with OEM parts. If you don't condition the new pads you run the risk of glazing the outer surface of the pad material AFAIK. No downside that I can see other than a little more time/care on the front side of new parts
I don't know the answer however by bedding in the brake pads and rotors via StopTech's recommended procedure you can't go wrong IMO. Although I don't use OEM pads and rotors I adhere to the same basic bedding procedure on my ART rotors and Porterfield pads and would do so with OEM parts. If you don't condition the new pads you run the risk of glazing the outer surface of the pad material AFAIK. No downside that I can see other than a little more time/care on the front side of new parts
GotMud sums it up pretty good. The only thing I will add is if your brakes were not smoking by the time you were done you didnt get them bed.
hoser
SILVER Star
x2, I would bed all new brakes. The stop-tech pdf also states to clean the rotors prior to installing. I've never done it but it certainly wouldn't hurt.
Don't mean to hikjack, but this could be useful to others...
What's the break in procedure for new OEM pads and old OEM rotors?
There's just the faintest pulse sensation at times when decelerating from about 5-0.
Should I machine the rotors first? Or not necessary?
Follow normal break in procedure after?
What's the break in procedure for new OEM pads and old OEM rotors?
There's just the faintest pulse sensation at times when decelerating from about 5-0.
Should I machine the rotors first? Or not necessary?
Follow normal break in procedure after?
If you're talking about cleaning new rotors prior to installing, yes you do want to clean them because there is usually a thin coat of oil on them to keep them from rusting while sitting in inventory. You want all that oil off so the brakes can do their job. In this case we want lots of friction. Oil tends to reduce it. You will also contaminate the pads. I really don't know if you can really clean them after the fact and get them back to new stopping power. Maybe so.
Oh, and ask me how I learned all this.
That was way back in my high school days.
I used this (PowerStop) and the FSM. As far as turning the rotors is concerned, its only a temporary fix. They'll pulse again in ___ miles anyway. If you've never turned them, turn them once and mark that day on the calander as the day you start saving for new rotors (and pads). Within about 6 months they'll pulse again if you drive as much as I do. Your experience may be different, but I've never heard of anyone being able to turn rotors without the problem returning relitavely quickly.
I used to never be an advocate of turning rotors, I always believed that once I felt the pulse the rotors were warped and that taking the peaks off the warping would have no lasting effect on the warping and only accelerate the problem as the rotors would have been warped the whole way through. The more I learned about the problem however the more I read that rotors don't in fact warp, at all. One example is the Ford GT40 race team that revolutionized braking in the race car world using the disc advantage to beat ferrari for a few years. That team didn't see a single warped rotor during all of their testing and racing.
Does anyone know if this is true? I still kinda feel like they warp, but it seems that a lot of educated people on the subject disagree.
hoser
SILVER Star
I have a brake job coming up and will give them a thorough cleaning.
Here is a good write up on "warped disc", it makes a lot of sense and highlights why bedding them is important.
StopTech : Balanced Brake Upgrades
StopTech : Balanced Brake Upgrades
- Thread starter
- #13
Alright you talked me into doing it.
I'm on my way to give it a go. I'll report back probably tomorrow.
I'm not using factory rotors- just NAPA's super premium with Toyota's pads. But for practical purpose they are just like stock rotors - nothing special just heavier duty & with lifetime warranty.
Dean
I'm on my way to give it a go. I'll report back probably tomorrow.
I'm not using factory rotors- just NAPA's super premium with Toyota's pads. But for practical purpose they are just like stock rotors - nothing special just heavier duty & with lifetime warranty.
Dean
Just curious, why not the OEM rotors?
- Thread starter
- #15
The NAPAs come with a life time warranty.
So it this warping issue happens again i'll replace them and try not bedding in the brakes. DMX
- Thread starter
- #16
I got it done last night, and all seems to have gone well. It took 22 miles to get the rotors to cool to "ambient". I only was able to get ~85* with the outside temperature at 77*
I then did the second set and drove it 17 miles home and the temperatures were in the mid 90's due to the outside temp cooling off.
Lots of smoke during the first set. I didn't notice as much during the second set, but it was getting dark.
I check the rotors temp 5 miles after the first set and the temperature was 280*.
I used the transmission to slow me down and the E brake to stop so not to embed the brakes into the hot rotor. Not that easy but doable.
DMX
I then did the second set and drove it 17 miles home and the temperatures were in the mid 90's due to the outside temp cooling off.
Lots of smoke during the first set. I didn't notice as much during the second set, but it was getting dark.
I check the rotors temp 5 miles after the first set and the temperature was 280*.
I used the transmission to slow me down and the E brake to stop so not to embed the brakes into the hot rotor. Not that easy but doable.
DMX
Also a good test that braking system is in order and stands up to high temp. Will want to do check of rotor temps after several miles with no braking to make sure none of sliding pins are sticking causing drag.
Have you checked your e-brake? E-brake should keep vehicle from moving when put in Drive and rev'd up to 1500rpm or better.
Have you checked your e-brake? E-brake should keep vehicle from moving when put in Drive and rev'd up to 1500rpm or better.
Don't worry about embedding the brake pads into a hot rotor. The bigger concern when bedding in new pads is to not let the rotors get super heated and then come to a stop, as this could cause the rotors to warp.
BTW, good luck getting NAPA to cover rotor warpage under warranty. Some will, many won't. YMMV
BTW, good luck getting NAPA to cover rotor warpage under warranty. Some will, many won't. YMMV
i installed Brembo rotors and oem pads 30K miles back. did not follow the stop tech break-in procedure at that time and my breaks are fine. I think that it is primarily for performance brakes. All the owner's manuals I've read dissuade you from hard stops for the 1st few hundred miles on new cars. i guess unless you really screw them up by not following the Stop-Tech procedure correctly, it isn't a big deal either way.
I did the bed-in process on my front Stop-tech rotors. Who knows if it "really" made a difference, but I at least thought my braking felt a bit crisper. If nothing else it probably just expedited the process of removing any assembly-line sheen or glazing from the pads and rotors.
Regardless, I assume they recommend doing it for a reason and didn't just make it up. Not to mention, it's always nice to know how your vehicle performs at the limits, in this case you get to see what it takes to get to major brake fade and how quickly they cool down and recover.
Regardless, I assume they recommend doing it for a reason and didn't just make it up. Not to mention, it's always nice to know how your vehicle performs at the limits, in this case you get to see what it takes to get to major brake fade and how quickly they cool down and recover.
