OEM Locker Wiring Harness Options (1 Viewer)

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Hi all,

I have searched a ton of posts and found quite a few on adding OEM lockers to a nonlocked rig. A few of them touch on aftermarket options and I wanted to see if anybody had a preference, insight, first-hand knowledge on the wiring harness options out there.

Background:

I have a complete 97 parts vehicle in my garage with OEM lockers.

I own a diesel converted 91 FJ80 I want to add the lockers too.

I am very new to wiring/splicing/reading EWD.

Is it worth it to go in and pull the individual wires for the lockers along with the ECM, Dash strip that will need to be added to my bezels, and other connectors? I have the parts so its free, if I go this route it will be all Toyota. But I will not have the option to lock the front independently from the rear. Admittedly, I have never used lockers and don't plan on doing rocks so this may be a moot point from someone more experience.

Another appealing option is the Slee E Locker Control Module. Seems to make wiring simple and keeps the OEM look, but does not lock independently It's only $85. Dont have to worry about a 25 yr old ECM going out.

Another option is the 12v guy's kit. Easy, no relays, locks independently, but (and this is purely vanity) I don't like the switch look. No ECM to go out what so ever.

Are there any other options out there I am missing? Any cons to any of the above options?
 

Delta VS

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“You ain’t Mud if you don’t choose this option”

But in all seriousness, the ECMs are still available (I think), and re-wiring this system would be a good way to learn wiring (are you patient?) and you’d know what to fix down the road.

Edit: other options? Besides things like Harrop, etc?
 
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“You ain’t Mud if you don’t choose this option”

But in all seriousness, the ECMs are still available (I think), and re-wiring this system would be a good way to learn wiring (are you patient?) and you’d know what to fix down the road.

Edit: other options? Besides things like Harrop, etc?

Other options as in kits or modules that might be available.

what exactly do you want to accomplish?

what type of wheeling situations do you encounter, or in other words: how would you be using the lockers?

Right now not much wheeling. Just forest roads, and random trails. Nothing too technical or hard; but the goal is to get to remote travel with my family. Again, nothing too technical, but we would like to travel up through Canada to Alaska via the Alaskan Highway or something like that. I do the occasional off-road park because that's all we got in the South East, to be honest; not much BLM out here.
 
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Personally I like the oem setup because it has the documentation and everything but transferring it to a 91 diesel, I'd have to think on that some. If it has all the harness like mine did so you just plug things in then I'd go that route. Regardless the rear is a bit more work since you'd have to wire in the 97 connector into the 91 harness. One thing you might have trouble with is defeating a few of the inputs to the oem ecu.

I have a 40 and swapped 80 lockers into it. For that I built my own controller but this was a lot of work because I made it replicate the oem controls where it proves the engagement is made before turning on the light. While it is trying to engage it blinks the light. You'll find most of the aftermarket ones (if any) don't have those features.
 
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Personally I like the oem setup because it has the documentation and everything but transferring it to a 91 diesel, I'd have to think on that some. If it has all the harness like mine did so you just plug things in then I'd go that route. Regardless the rear is a bit more work since you'd have to wire in the 97 connector into the 91 harness. One thing you might have trouble with is defeating a few of the inputs to the oem ecu.

I have a 40 and swapped 80 lockers into it. For that I built my own controller but this was a lot of work because I made it replicate the oem controls where it proves the engagement is made before turning on the light. While it is trying to engage it blinks the light. You'll find most of the aftermarket ones (if any) don't have those features.

Interesting, from all my reading on here it was my understanding that even though my 91 does not have the harness or plugs available, it could be added. For the record, its an ISUZU 4BD1T swap with stock tranny and the harness is stock. Its like 5 wires, from what I understand, to pull/add to the receiving vehicle and the ECM is stand alone, as in it does not have any inputs from other ECM or what not. But i could be wrong, that's just from what I grasped while reading. While the idea of OEM sounds appealing and I usually tend to lean that way, its seems so much simpler to use the SLEE Box which acts as OEM without all the wiring. The PDF looks like you just hook all the wires to it between the lockers themselves and the OEM Switch.
 
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depending on how particular of a person you are the slee box may or may not be fine for you. For me it wasn't. It is possible they changed it since it has been maybe 2 years since I looked. Either way it wouldn't be that bad to pull all the wires you need from the 97 and then run new wires for the rest. I'm just not sure what you do with one of the inputs to defeat it. From memory there is a abs speed input or something to prevent switching at high speed. I think in the end this is what swayed my decision. Have a look at the 97 factory wiring manual. The locker pages are pretty simple. Maybe someone posted on how to bypass the necessary inputs.
 
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I have a 40 and swapped 80 lockers into it. For that I built my own controller but this was a lot of work because I made it replicate the oem controls where it proves the engagement is made before turning on the light. While it is trying to engage it blinks the light.

Me too. Twice. One of mine has indicators, but they don't blink. The 2nd one has locked indicator wires, but I never bothered to add bulbs.

How'd you make them blink? Self-blinking LEDs? 555 timer IC? Fancy.

I have thought of making a controller out of an Arduino board with a motor controller shield. It would only be $40 for parts and easy to use OEM switches and indicators.

To the OP:

IMO, a rear locker would be a better option than non-selectable F+R lockers. I use the rear all the time, and the front only rarely, and you can barely steer with both locked.

Don't use the 12v guy setup. It passes motor power/current through a sense trace that was not designed for it.

IMO, it's a good excuse to work on you EWD skills and build one. It's not hard.

E-Locker Circuit

attachment.php


attachment.php
 
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Here is the solid-state version of the HW. It's 2"x1", maybe 1/2" thick. All switch inputs would solder directly to existing pins with no additional circuitry. You could make the indicators flash however you want in SW.

2927-06.jpg
 
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depending on how particular of a person you are the slee box may or may not be fine for you. For me it wasn't. It is possible they changed it since it has been maybe 2 years since I looked. Either way it wouldn't be that bad to pull all the wires you need from the 97 and then run new wires for the rest. I'm just not sure what you do with one of the inputs to defeat it. From memory there is a abs speed input or something to prevent switching at high speed. I think in the end this is what swayed my decision. Have a look at the 97 factory wiring manual. The locker pages are pretty simple. Maybe someone posted on how to bypass the necessary inputs.
Are you saying the Slee box or OEM needed an ABS bypass of some sort possibly?
 
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Don't use the 12v guy setup. It passes motor power/current through a sense trace that was not designed for it.
This!

I noticed it too. The aftermarket solutions I've seen run the motor current through the end-of-travel sensor built into the actuator, which was only designed to trigger a relay.

How'd you make them blink? Self-blinking LEDs? 555 timer IC? Fancy.
I used a 555 timer in the unit I built, also utilizes the speed signal as well. Oh, and it's plug-n-play.:grinpimp:

ECU V3.0.JPG
 
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This!

I noticed it too. The aftermarket solutions I've seen run the motor current through the end-of-travel sensor built into the actuator, which was only designed to trigger a relay.


I used a 555 timer in the unit I built, also utilizes the speed signal as well. Oh, and it's plug-n-play.:grinpimp:

View attachment 1893223
So why make your own unit? What are the advantages to that? Looks impressive!
 
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So why make your own unit? What are the advantages to that? Looks impressive!
Thanks, I should have mentioned this one is for air lockers though. The advantage is it uses the factory switch and provides all the factory functions like CDL interlock, overspeed lockout, flashing lights. Plus it controls the compressor and it also has the option of locking the front axle first.
 
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YoYoHo

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Thanks, I should have mentioned this one is for air lockers though. The advantage is it uses the factory switch and provides all the factory functions like CDL interlock, overspeed lockout, flashing lights. Plus it controls the compressor and it also has the option of locking the front axle first.

How do you confirm the Air Locker is Locked ? The factory has the ball switch but ARB don't really have anything that I can think of
 

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