OEM Driveshaft come balanced? (1 Viewer)

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I have replaced the lock on coupler on my grease gun with an 18" hose and a permanent "needle" style nozzle. It is easier to deal with on ALL zerks than to try to wrestle a separate piece for the one zerk that is difficult.

Don't forget, you have a lift on your truck. This changed the angle of the driveshaft and therefore the angle of the U-Joints and the accessibility of the zerks. Your lift is not so extreme as to cause issues, but it is not easier.

Also, make sure that when you are greasing your U-Joints and yokes that you have your driveline unloaded. This means the transmission in neutral, parking brake set, wheels chocked. This will allow the grease to get on all sides of the yokes and U-joints.

Grease Gun Needle Fitting

Good reminder. Many thanks BILT.

Needle in the house!

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Much obliged. I can tell you how relieved I was when I saw your front DC shaft; everything neatly lined up and easily accessible unlike the factory setup.

What would be really helpful is someone taking a pic of their 95-97 OEM rear shaft that shows one of these grease gun couplers connected to the front u joint zerk fitting with no issues just like the pic I'm showing with the rear u joint. Then I know for sure something's up with my shaft which would be a surprise given it's a new TOYOTA part that I literally picked up at the parts counter, took it to the shop and had them install it then and there.

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It's a common size and came with this grease gun I bought at Harbor Freight.

You showed a picture of the rear u-joint, for the front the zerk needs to be pointing up.
 
You showed a picture of the rear u-joint, for the front the zerk needs to be pointing up.
Correct. It shows that my fitting has easy access to the rear zerk. Front, as mentioned ad nauseam, is a different story. The needle nozzle worked perfectly (right size).

In regard to the OP question, I’ve probably purchased and installed two new front factory shafts and two new rear factory shafts over the years. I never once had a balancing issue or any issue for that matter (not once did I grease them upon purchase btw). Factory shafts are still made in Japan and the finishing quality is unmatched by any aftermarket shaft I’ve run on my 80.

The only DC shaft I trust is made by landtank, full stop.
 
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Just installed a new rear, had a little too much fun this spring and tore up the old new one wheeling. I chose to grease the splines and yokes with moly since I’m a one grease gun guy. Marked and separated the yolk to wipe off the assembly grease and then lathered her up. I pulled the zero to squeeze out the extra grease when I put them back together. Smooth sailing now, I forgot what it’s like to drive without the CDL and ABS lights on all the time.

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I for the life of me cannot access the front U joint zerk of the rear shaft with the shaft on the truck.

This thread reminded me that I should grease my drive shafts. Here's how I reach the front zerk:

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I think I used a flap disc. I was surprised that there was enough meat on there for it to work.
 
This thread reminded me that I should grease my drive shafts. Here's how I reach the front zerk:

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I think I used a flap disc. I was surprised that there was enough meat on there for it to work.

Beauty mod that and exactly the same angle I was talking about. There is not enough space.

Another pain is getting it released off the zerk being a b!tch with these standard fittings. It's like you tighten it so grease doesn't squirt out, but then to loosen it there is no space.

The needle nozzle makes it all a non-issue now.
 
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Another pain is getting it released off the zerk being a b!tch with these standard fittings

Funny you should say that. My rear drive shaft zerks are no problem, while my Tom Woods front drive shaft's zerks are unbelievable hard to release. Maybe the rear shaft's zerks are just a bit worn. I can't remember if I replaced them when I replaced the u-joints. Anyway, I use whatever tool I have on hand to pry them apart. Yesterday, it was a crescent wrench opened up wide.
 
Got a replacement front DS and hoping to get it all mounted up this week. The cost to replace the u-joint was a bit too much compared to just getting the new shaft (when on sale). I'll get it all lubed up based on comments here.
 
I've been advised to use a non-moly grease for the prop shaft as I was using Valvoline Palladium to stick with one grease gun for both the shafts and the knuckles (convenience).

Now I have two grease guns. One with Valvoline Palladium to continue to service the knuckles and the other loaded with a lithium grease (Valvoline Heavy Duty Crimson) for the shafts. One can easily distinguish the two. Palladium moly is gray. Crimson is red. Both are easy to source at the menagerie of auto parts shops in my area.

I'm not sure if it makes any difference long term, but might as well do it right hereon.
 
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