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Picking up Thursday. Is it greased?
Yes, but barely. No harm in pumping more in.Picking up Thursday. Is it greased?
It will have the assembly grease that Toyota uses in the bearing caps, nothing else.Picking up Thursday. Is it greased?
Your way > what I been doing.It will have the assembly grease that Toyota uses in the bearing caps, nothing else.
Grease the joints before installation. I like to separate the halves and manually grease the slip yoke splines, then remove the grease nipple for the slip yoke, assemble the shaft and compress the yoke until all the excess grease squirts out. Then reinstall the nipple.
I've been trying to avoid the ol "throw money at it" mentality for my driveline noise but the cost to pick up a new shaft compared to replacing one or two of the joints seems strange. I'm sort of on the side of if I need to replace one or two of the u-joints then why not spend another $100 to replace the hole shaft and save me the headache of trying to swap the u-joints out.
But I appreciate the thread because I was wondering the same myself.
Cheap whore here, but w/o a press and not too interested in making space for one since I don't see many projects on the horizon where I'd need one.If you have a shop / space for a press, DIY aside from slop in splines (or your time is worth more than the labor/hr) - I really only trust my work.
That, or if I went to Torfab but they book out aways & I’m a cheap whore w/ a press
FWIW, I’ve never used or seen the need to use a press to replace u-joints. Appropriately sized sockets, hammer, and vise are sufficient.Cheap whore here, but w/o a press and not too interested in making space for one since I don't see many projects on the horizon where I'd need one.
#NorthernMidwestProblems where I don't have access to any folks that work on Cruisers. I've taken it to the 4x4 shop that works mostly on jeeps and was decently satisfied but I do wish I had a place like Torfab.
I did all of mine with only a vise, socket, and a hammer. Not difficult.If you have a shop / space for a press, DIY aside from slop in splines (or your time is worth more than the labor/hr) - I really only trust my work.
That, or if I went to Torfab but they book out aways & I’m a cheap whore w/ a press
I just have a press both in home shop & air-power’d one at work.I did all of mine with only a vise, socket, and a hammer. Not difficult.
Just mark yoke and spline so they go back the same orientation,.It will have the assembly grease that Toyota uses in the bearing caps, nothing else.
Grease the joints before installation. I like to separate the halves and manually grease the slip yoke splines, then remove the grease nipple for the slip yoke, assemble the shaft and compress the yoke until all the excess grease squirts out. Then reinstall the nipple.
I never mark anything. You have to try hard to screw this stuff up.Just mark yoke and spline so they go back the same orientation,.
I suppose if they're new they're balanced separately anyway, however speed variations are minimized if u-joints are phased properly and grease nipple service is made easier if they line up properly.I never mark anything. You have to try hard to screw this stuff up.
Correct. The rear drive shaft is in phase. There's only 1 spot where that happens. All you need is 1 good eyeball.I suppose if they're new they're balanced separately anyway, however speed variations are minimized if u-joints are phased properly and grease nipple service is made easier if they line up properly.
So are the factory shafts pre-greased or not? I've bought new front and rear OEM shafts and never greased them until thousands of miles later as part of routine maintenance.It will have the assembly grease that Toyota uses in the bearing caps, nothing else.
Grease the joints before installation. I like to separate the halves and manually grease the slip yoke splines, then remove the grease nipple for the slip yoke, assemble the shaft and compress the yoke until all the excess grease squirts out. Then reinstall the nipple.
factory joints are greased with an assembly lube. Basically it holds things in place and inhibits rust. Bearing grease is made from 1 of 2 base stocks which are not compatible with each other. So it is left to the end user to initially grease the shaft and to use the same grease in perpetuity to provide the longest service life. I personally would just use bearing grease and avoid Moly fortified stuff. But that is an individual's call.So are the factory shafts pre-greased or not? I've bought new front and rear OEM shafts and never greased them until thousands of miles later as part of routine maintenance.
Like this rear shaft I've had on my 80 for ~40K perfectly reliable miles. Did not grease at all upon purchase.
View attachment 3037616
I recall an orange-ish grease coming out of the U and slip joints which was quite a contrast to the gray Valv Palladium moly I use.
I never had an issue running the factory shafts from new. Would be good to put this to rest given conflicting reports from two forum members I respect.
F/R Driveshafts
Just looked on toyodiy and I'm seeing the same front and rear driveshaft PNs for 93-94 and 95-97 80's. Is this correct? I was under the impression the 93-94's had shorter rear driveshafts?forum.ih8mud.com
Gracias.