OEM Driveshaft come balanced? (1 Viewer)

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Sep 6, 2004
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Would a new replacement OEM driveshaft (37110 60520) come balanced from the factory?
Tom
 
Picking up Thursday. Is it greased?

Maybe, but why risk it?

Get it in & pump grease until you see it come out all the U-J caps - then you KNOW it’s greased & greased right.
 
Picking up Thursday. Is it greased?
It will have the assembly grease that Toyota uses in the bearing caps, nothing else.
Grease the joints before installation. I like to separate the halves and manually grease the slip yoke splines, then remove the grease nipple for the slip yoke, assemble the shaft and compress the yoke until all the excess grease squirts out. Then reinstall the nipple.
 
It will have the assembly grease that Toyota uses in the bearing caps, nothing else.
Grease the joints before installation. I like to separate the halves and manually grease the slip yoke splines, then remove the grease nipple for the slip yoke, assemble the shaft and compress the yoke until all the excess grease squirts out. Then reinstall the nipple.
Your way > what I been doing.

Great tip, thanks!
 
I've been trying to avoid the ol "throw money at it" mentality for my driveline noise but the cost to pick up a new shaft compared to replacing one or two of the joints seems strange. I'm sort of on the side of if I need to replace one or two of the u-joints then why not spend another $100 to replace the hole shaft and save me the headache of trying to swap the u-joints out.

But I appreciate the thread because I was wondering the same myself.
 
I've been trying to avoid the ol "throw money at it" mentality for my driveline noise but the cost to pick up a new shaft compared to replacing one or two of the joints seems strange. I'm sort of on the side of if I need to replace one or two of the u-joints then why not spend another $100 to replace the hole shaft and save me the headache of trying to swap the u-joints out.

But I appreciate the thread because I was wondering the same myself.

If you have a shop / space for a press, DIY aside from slop in splines (or your time is worth more than the labor/hr) - I really only trust my work.

That, or if I went to Torfab but they book out aways & I’m a cheap whore w/ a press ;)
 
If you have a shop / space for a press, DIY aside from slop in splines (or your time is worth more than the labor/hr) - I really only trust my work.

That, or if I went to Torfab but they book out aways & I’m a cheap whore w/ a press ;)
Cheap whore here, but w/o a press and not too interested in making space for one since I don't see many projects on the horizon where I'd need one.

#NorthernMidwestProblems where I don't have access to any folks that work on Cruisers. I've taken it to the 4x4 shop that works mostly on jeeps and was decently satisfied but I do wish I had a place like Torfab.
 
Cheap whore here, but w/o a press and not too interested in making space for one since I don't see many projects on the horizon where I'd need one.

#NorthernMidwestProblems where I don't have access to any folks that work on Cruisers. I've taken it to the 4x4 shop that works mostly on jeeps and was decently satisfied but I do wish I had a place like Torfab.
FWIW, I’ve never used or seen the need to use a press to replace u-joints. Appropriately sized sockets, hammer, and vise are sufficient.
 
If you have a shop / space for a press, DIY aside from slop in splines (or your time is worth more than the labor/hr) - I really only trust my work.

That, or if I went to Torfab but they book out aways & I’m a cheap whore w/ a press ;)
I did all of mine with only a vise, socket, and a hammer. Not difficult.
 
I did all of mine with only a vise, socket, and a hammer. Not difficult.
I just have a press both in home shop & air-power’d one at work.

I have it easy, no bringing a rock to a bazooka fight ;)
 
It will have the assembly grease that Toyota uses in the bearing caps, nothing else.
Grease the joints before installation. I like to separate the halves and manually grease the slip yoke splines, then remove the grease nipple for the slip yoke, assemble the shaft and compress the yoke until all the excess grease squirts out. Then reinstall the nipple.
Just mark yoke and spline so they go back the same orientation,.
 
I never mark anything. You have to try hard to screw this stuff up.
I suppose if they're new they're balanced separately anyway, however speed variations are minimized if u-joints are phased properly and grease nipple service is made easier if they line up properly.
 
I suppose if they're new they're balanced separately anyway, however speed variations are minimized if u-joints are phased properly and grease nipple service is made easier if they line up properly.
Correct. The rear drive shaft is in phase. There's only 1 spot where that happens. All you need is 1 good eyeball.
 
I picked up this tool years ago at a crazy discounted price off retail. It works, but as others have said a couple of sockets, your time, and a bit more elbow grease gets the job done.

When using a cordless impact wrench with the tool it makes for a very easy job.

FWIW


 
It will have the assembly grease that Toyota uses in the bearing caps, nothing else.
Grease the joints before installation. I like to separate the halves and manually grease the slip yoke splines, then remove the grease nipple for the slip yoke, assemble the shaft and compress the yoke until all the excess grease squirts out. Then reinstall the nipple.
So are the factory shafts pre-greased or not? I've bought new front and rear OEM shafts and never greased them until thousands of miles later as part of routine maintenance.

Like this rear shaft I've had on my 80 for ~40K perfectly reliable miles. Did not grease at all upon purchase.

IMG_1225.jpeg


I recall an orange-ish grease coming out of the U and slip joints which was quite a contrast to the gray Valv Palladium moly I use.

I never had an issue running the factory shafts from new. Would be good to put this to rest given conflicting reports from two forum members I respect.


Gracias.
 
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So are the factory shafts pre-greased or not? I've bought new front and rear OEM shafts and never greased them until thousands of miles later as part of routine maintenance.

Like this rear shaft I've had on my 80 for ~40K perfectly reliable miles. Did not grease at all upon purchase.

View attachment 3037616

I recall an orange-ish grease coming out of the U and slip joints which was quite a contrast to the gray Valv Palladium moly I use.

I never had an issue running the factory shafts from new. Would be good to put this to rest given conflicting reports from two forum members I respect.


Gracias.
factory joints are greased with an assembly lube. Basically it holds things in place and inhibits rust. Bearing grease is made from 1 of 2 base stocks which are not compatible with each other. So it is left to the end user to initially grease the shaft and to use the same grease in perpetuity to provide the longest service life. I personally would just use bearing grease and avoid Moly fortified stuff. But that is an individual's call.
 

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