firefighterjed
SILVER Star
Part of the great joy of owning an older Landcruiser is how completely serviceable they are. I love working on my rig and enjoying the risks and rewards that result. I know that the gold standard for carb set up is to send it off to Jim C or Mark, but the stubborn ass that i am wants to do everything myself.
I’m getting ready to delete the weber in favor of an OEM carb. I’ve rebuilt the OEM carb, but I have a some more detailed questions about the ideal initial setup for my particular vehicle. Maybe you’ve got some insight that can help.
I’ll outline my project and pose my questions at the bottom.
Current set up is 1976 FJ40 with DUI/HEI, Headers, Weber 32/36, smog is all deleted and capped/plugged. 2F, H42, stock t-case , 4:11 diffs turning 33x12.5r15.
I want to return to an OEM carb.
I was given a 21100-61072 casting stamped 6G2. PJohnson said someone gave it to him, and to pass it on if he didn’t use it. Lucky me!
Cruiser Outfitters sold me a keyster kit including a secondary diaphragm and I cleaned and replaced all the seals, gaskets and o rings.
Cleaned all the metal parts in Barrymans in an ultrasonic bath.
Slow jets are 55 and 70
I have ordered an assortment of main jets from 125-150 and 180-220
I used the FSM and a Haynes to guide my initial setup for all adjustable parts. Choke gap, choke breaker angle, Throttle stop, WOT, high idle, and secondary kick up, etc are all set to the federal spec in the FSM. When I was setting the secondary kick up i found that the primary throttle shaft was slightly bent. It appears that this had been dropped. I was able to straighten the shaft and eliminate the slight cam type motion that was being cause.
I live at 3500 feet in idaho. This is a weekend driver with trail adventures but no real crawling. I go to 6500’ often and seldom go to lower elevations.
My questions are these:
1. What makes this “California spec” carb different from a federal or a world market carb?
2. What main jets would you recommend as a starting set for me?
3. I can pull plugs and read them for rich/lean, are there other things to look at to suggest changing main jets?
4. Do I need different slow jets?
5. Are there baseline adjustment specs that I should use that are different than the federal spec in the FSM?
6. I wasn’t able to get the full 9.5mm of throw in the accelerator pump plunger. I know the plunger hits bottom right as the rod from the throttle cam gets to its apex, but at idle position the plunger is only lifted up about 8mm. (In the attached pic the rod is on the wrong side of the throttle cam, I’ve since flipped it to the outside.)
7. Where does the choke breaker get it’s vacuum from? Im desmogged. My only other vacuum lines are distributor advance, secondaries, and brake booster.
8. Should I even keep the choke breaker? I noticed it’s not on world market carbs
9. Is there a better cap for the EGR pipe off the riser? This white one is tight and secure, but the zip tie seems hokey so I thought I’d ask.
10. Is the vacuum source next to the idle mixture screw the proper source for the distributor?
11. I have a working fuel return line that is currently capped, so convenience has no bearing here. Is the return line a good thing?
12. I should I cap it at the carb too? ( fuel pump is recently replaced OEM mechanical)
13. The riser/heat shield that insulates between the intake manifold and this carb has a vacuum port. What attaches there ?
Thanks in advance everyone!
I’m getting ready to delete the weber in favor of an OEM carb. I’ve rebuilt the OEM carb, but I have a some more detailed questions about the ideal initial setup for my particular vehicle. Maybe you’ve got some insight that can help.
I’ll outline my project and pose my questions at the bottom.
Current set up is 1976 FJ40 with DUI/HEI, Headers, Weber 32/36, smog is all deleted and capped/plugged. 2F, H42, stock t-case , 4:11 diffs turning 33x12.5r15.
I want to return to an OEM carb.
I was given a 21100-61072 casting stamped 6G2. PJohnson said someone gave it to him, and to pass it on if he didn’t use it. Lucky me!
Cruiser Outfitters sold me a keyster kit including a secondary diaphragm and I cleaned and replaced all the seals, gaskets and o rings.
Cleaned all the metal parts in Barrymans in an ultrasonic bath.
Slow jets are 55 and 70
I have ordered an assortment of main jets from 125-150 and 180-220
I used the FSM and a Haynes to guide my initial setup for all adjustable parts. Choke gap, choke breaker angle, Throttle stop, WOT, high idle, and secondary kick up, etc are all set to the federal spec in the FSM. When I was setting the secondary kick up i found that the primary throttle shaft was slightly bent. It appears that this had been dropped. I was able to straighten the shaft and eliminate the slight cam type motion that was being cause.
I live at 3500 feet in idaho. This is a weekend driver with trail adventures but no real crawling. I go to 6500’ often and seldom go to lower elevations.
My questions are these:
1. What makes this “California spec” carb different from a federal or a world market carb?
2. What main jets would you recommend as a starting set for me?
3. I can pull plugs and read them for rich/lean, are there other things to look at to suggest changing main jets?
4. Do I need different slow jets?
5. Are there baseline adjustment specs that I should use that are different than the federal spec in the FSM?
6. I wasn’t able to get the full 9.5mm of throw in the accelerator pump plunger. I know the plunger hits bottom right as the rod from the throttle cam gets to its apex, but at idle position the plunger is only lifted up about 8mm. (In the attached pic the rod is on the wrong side of the throttle cam, I’ve since flipped it to the outside.)
7. Where does the choke breaker get it’s vacuum from? Im desmogged. My only other vacuum lines are distributor advance, secondaries, and brake booster.
8. Should I even keep the choke breaker? I noticed it’s not on world market carbs
9. Is there a better cap for the EGR pipe off the riser? This white one is tight and secure, but the zip tie seems hokey so I thought I’d ask.
10. Is the vacuum source next to the idle mixture screw the proper source for the distributor?
11. I have a working fuel return line that is currently capped, so convenience has no bearing here. Is the return line a good thing?
12. I should I cap it at the carb too? ( fuel pump is recently replaced OEM mechanical)
13. The riser/heat shield that insulates between the intake manifold and this carb has a vacuum port. What attaches there ?
Thanks in advance everyone!
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