OEM Brass Spindle Bushings - request for ID / OD measurements (1 Viewer)

[Randy88FJ62]

The burrs on the machined inner slots is what made me look twice at these. I agree that they shouldn't be a big issue. Now I have to go look at the honing procedure Spike is calling out.

@Spike Strip
I don't see a honing procedure in the Chassis manual. Checked 88 FJ62 manual and FZJ80 manual as well. No honing.

 

[Spike Strip]

Easy to remove

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$20 at harbor freight, but should also come out with a brass drift.

I think the honing procedure is in the 40 manuals, or possibly in the 60-series manual supplement. Don't remember and not at home to check. Maybe @RAGINGMATT has it... ? Could be the 60/80 are different but I don't think so. Anyway, as stated earlier, Birf is steel vs bronze. I've never seen any specs on what is considered 'wear' for that bush, just 'check for wear and replace'. If you put the new one in and it feels tight, you'll have to hone. Maybe from the measurements provided the OE bush is closer to birf diameter and doesn't need it.

The honing procedure called for some kind of 'micro hone' that was common once, but I couldn't find it anywhere other than ancient used ones on fleabay. I used a ball-hone (I *think* it was 20mm, but I did it 9 years ago so I might be misremembering) and just did it gradually until the birf moved freely in the bush, with lube. I used SOR ones, IIRC. If I knew better at the time, I would have left them alone.

I can check for the procedure tomorrow.

From the 80-section. I used that same 3-jaw puller.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

I have 2 of the New OEM Bushings for any needed reference etc......

here is the tan 1981 FSM and the grey 1978 FSM

 

[Spook50]

I've done a couple knuckle rebuilds in my 62's 290K miles of life. Thinking next time I do it I should replace these bushings (also going to do the job RIGHT and get the knuckle SST), just for the piece of mind.

Damn, just checked toyotapartsdeal.com and they're almost $85 a piece. Buggers aren't cheap.

 

[cruisermatt]

I've done a couple knuckle rebuilds in my 62's 290K miles of life. Thinking next time I do it I should replace these bushings (also going to do the job RIGHT and get the knuckle SST), just for the piece of mind.

Damn, just checked toyotapartsdeal.com and they're almost $85 a piece. Buggers aren't cheap.

Why? How many of those 290K were in 4WD? They really aren't a wear item. Don't buy into Mud OCD and needlessly waste time and money.

 

[Skniper]

Why? How many of those 290K were in 4WD? They really aren't a wear item. Don't buy into Mud OCD and needlessly waste time and money.

Yup, kinda my point in post #8.

 

[Spook50]

Why? How many of those 290K were in 4WD? They really aren't a wear item. Don't buy into Mud OCD and needlessly waste time and money.

Honestly not much in 4WD, but my 62 spends every winter with the hubs locked and often goes on the highway that way.

 

[60Works]

There is a 0.001% chance you'll be able to remove them without destruction.

There is a 0.002% chance you'll be able to install the new bushings without destruction.

I tried this route. Destroyed 2 before getting a good press in. Then one side grabbed on the axle shaft. Not sure if clocking of the grooves matters. The new set of spindles I ordered where about 90° different from each other.

Yes, they are OEM.
I really don’t think these bushings are as big of a deal as you guys are making them out to be. They’re just a gentle support for the birfield so it doesn’t contact and grind the inside of the steel spindle.

They are more than 'gentle support'. The bushings support the outboard end of the axles plus provide thrust limit. They are what keep the axles centered in the housing and the hinging center of the birf aligned with the king pin axis of rotation. If your axle seals seem to be failing too often, your bushings might be to blame instead of the shims under the king pin bearing caps.

All that said, I agree that replacing the bushings for wear is not necessary on most Cruisers.

 

[Prairie Swamp]

Destroyed 2 before getting a good press in

I had good luck putting the bushings in the freezer and the spindles in the oven.

 

[cruisermatt]

I disagree on keeping the axle aligned. They are just too big of an ID to really control what the axle does besides thrust outwards.

 

[60Works]

I disagree on keeping the axle aligned. They are just too big of an ID to really control what the axle does besides thrust outwards.

Could be, Matt, (Heaven knows I'm wrong a lot) but then what is supporting the axle? The locking hub? It runs on a thin bushing and, even if so, it couldn't support the axle center when turning.

Consider that the bushing is the origin point for the lengthy knuckle alignment procedure.

 

[cruisermatt]

I think the inner hub gear does it. It’s got over an inch of spline engagement and when axle splines and hub gear splines are both fresh there is very little play.
I could be wrong as well though.

 

[Samppahj]

My bushings were worn and it effected the calculation of knuckle bearing shims. With new bushes the needed thickness of shims changed and then the knuckle turned as it should do. And honing is a thing you should do. If it is too tight the bushing can stick to drive shaft and start turning around with the shaft. I have heard it has happened for some of the Cruiserists here in Finland. It has happened more for aftermarket bushings but to some using OEM parts also. Recommended is 0,1-0,3mm clearance between axle and bushing.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

0.1-0.3mm (.004-.012") seems like a rather small clearance. @Samppahj, where did you get that measurement?

 

[Prairie Swamp]

My research on steel shafts running in bronze bushing said even smaller - .002" But I assume that was for a shaft running in a machine not an Birfield axle.

 

[cruisermatt]

Here we go, Ih8mud ocd.. put it together and DRIVE IT

 

[Randy88FJ62]

I don't plan on removing mine unless they are visibly toast. I agree that these trucks can be slapped together and work well. Wheel bearings came in over the weekend. Now I am waiting on marlin seals and it's go time.