OEM Aux. Fuel Tank Gauge

[24HOURSOFNEVADA]

Hey guys, I was wondering if the non U.S. Hundy's featured the over head aux. gauge pod like the 80 series? On my ex 80, I sourced all the required OEM parts from David S (Japan4x4) for a factory overhead console and I really liked it.

If anybody has info on this, it would be most appreciated, i.e. pics or a part number. I'm fearing that Mr. T switched/transferred it to the dash mounted gauge instead of the overhead as my searches have come up negative. I know my good friend Spresso (Our little chat at the brewhouse has me obsessing again and working on a few things) had a redundant system wired to his dash gauge, but I'm curious about those rare non-conus parts.

For non 80 savvy, I've enclosed an image.

regards...

 

[1loudLX]

I think the 100 series doesnt come with the dual gauges.

 

[siglo]

My 2004 100 series has only one fuel gauge. There is an sub Tank push button to check the level of fuel in the sub tank.

here's a pic of it

When you press it the word "sub" IIRC lights up next to the fuel gauge.

 

[24HOURSOFNEVADA]

My 2004 100 series has only one fuel gauge. There is an sub Tank push button to check the level of fuel in the sub tank.

here's a pic of it

When you press it the word "sub" IIRC lights up next to the fuel gauge.

Sweet, I appreciate the information and the pic. That's what I was looking for.

 

[spressomon]

Oh my.

 

[24HOURSOFNEVADA]

Oh my.

I know...It's a disease. I suck. I promise you'll be the first to know.

 

[locrwln1]

Oh my.

I know...It's a disease. I suck. I promise you'll be the first to know.

I've learned to just wait for the dust to settle when it comes to J.

Jack

 

[24HOURSOFNEVADA]

I've learned to just wait for the dust to settle when it comes to J.

Jack

I know I know. I can't hide anywhere.

 

[rusty_tlc]

 

[fish2live]

ok, so has anyone tried to resolve the '03 and later charcoal canister issue in order to fit a sub-tank? Has anyone moved the canister? Anyone replaced the OEM main tank with a larger one?

After searching most of the threads there is a lot of talk about the '03+ canister issue and trying to work around that to get a sub-tank set-up.....

anyone??

 

[jgolden]

ok, so has anyone tried to resolve the '03 and later charcoal canister issue in order to fit a sub-tank? Has anyone moved the canister? Anyone replaced the OEM main tank with a larger one?

After searching most of the threads there is a lot of talk about the '03+ canister issue and trying to work around that to get a sub-tank set-up.....

anyone??

I'm slowly working on it.....

I'm currently in contact with Dave from Japan4x4 (thanks Spresso) and he's helping me source the needed parts. My plan is to setup the Cruiser with a complete sub tank system, but with a custom made tank (instead of the OEM which doesn't fit). I'm at the "research" stage so any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm sot sure how far I will take the details (fuel gauge, electric pump, etc.) my main goal is to keep it simple and carry an extra 15-20 gallons.

 

[24HOURSOFNEVADA]

20-25 gallons would be perfect.

 

[spressomon]

FYI: I have replicated the non-USA aux tank system including the dash mounted OEM fuel pump switch in my '99. Although not for the faint of pocket book it works great and is a quicksilver installation. The OEM USA 100 fuel gauge reads for each tank depending on the whether I select main or aux tank via the switch.

Joe at Slee's is my hero! He's the one that figured out all the electronics to get this to work. You would think it might be more plug and play since all the parts are available in Japan. But not so.

The other thing you could do I suppose (not sure if its legal or not...but having said that I'm totally sure any of this is truly legal...Jereme?) is build and install the custom tank along with the dual filler neck from Dave. Then syphon as needed from the aux to the main. This would certainly keep it simple and keep the cost down.

Regardless...if you build a tank be sure to include baffles in the design to keep the gas from quickly moving side to side, etc.

 

[fubuki]

FYI: I have replicated the non-USA aux tank system including the dash mounted OEM fuel pump switch in my '99. Although not for the faint of pocket book it works great and is a quicksilver installation. The OEM USA 100 fuel gauge reads for each tank depending on the whether I select main or aux tank via the switch.

Joe at Slee's is my hero! He's the one that figured out all the electronics to get this to work. You would think it might be more plug and play since all the parts are available in Japan. But not so.

The other thing you could do I suppose (not sure if its legal or not...but having said that I'm totally sure any of this is truly legal...Jereme?) is build and install the custom tank along with the dual filler neck from Dave. Then syphon as needed from the aux to the main. This would certainly keep it simple and keep the cost down.

Regardless...if you build a tank be sure to include baffles in the design to keep the gas from quickly moving side to side, etc.

I think I have a similar setup on the truck I bought from Slee, but I have a question for you. To register the aux tank on the fuel gauge I have to shut the ignition off, flip the switch and turn the ignition back on. It's a bit of a PITA and was hoping for a work around. Is your's similar?

 

[24HOURSOFNEVADA]

FYI: I have replicated the non-USA aux tank system including the dash mounted OEM fuel pump switch in my '99. Although not for the faint of pocket book it works great and is a quicksilver installation. The OEM USA 100 fuel gauge reads for each tank depending on the whether I select main or aux tank via the switch.

Joe at Slee's is my hero! He's the one that figured out all the electronics to get this to work. You would think it might be more plug and play since all the parts are available in Japan. But not so.

The other thing you could do I suppose (not sure if its legal or not...but having said that I'm totally sure any of this is truly legal...Jereme?) is build and install the custom tank along with the dual filler neck from Dave. Then syphon as needed from the aux to the main. This would certainly keep it simple and keep the cost down.

Regardless...if you build a tank be sure to include baffles in the design to keep the gas from quickly moving side to side, etc.

Your system is the pinnacle of aux. tanks. That's why I mentioned it in the first post.

No custom tank for me. The smaller Front Runner fits under the OEM spare tire hoist. My thoughts are; get the smaller unit. have a certified welder cut, add and re-weld to increase the capacity to around the 25 gal. mark. Ditch the OEM hoist. That would be the closest to custom your going to get me on a tank.

More likely to happen is that I'll just add cans to the rear bumper and stick with the 16 gal. Front Runner.

 

[hoser]

If you want a 24 gallon tank, check my thread here. No cutting and welding needed! Which ever tank you choose, I suggest getting the OEM tank filler that has the plunger. I have the Y-type filler and certain pump nozzle are short and force me to hold the nozzle while it fills. Plus, many states (not NV apparently) require the leaded restrictor plate in the filler which cannot be installed due to the y-type design.

 

[spressomon]

I think I have a similar setup on the truck I bought from Slee, but I have a question for you. To register the aux tank on the fuel gauge I have to shut the ignition off, flip the switch and turn the ignition back on. It's a bit of a PITA and was hoping for a work around. Is your's similar?

Mine, after switching from the main to the aux tank while the engine is running, will eventually read the level of the fuel in the aux tank. This is due, per Joe, to a buffer of sorts that is built into the OEM gauge system so that the gauge isn't reading/displaying a change every time the tank level changes due to off-level, sloshing, etc. Shutting the power off and then back on will allow immediate fuel level reading from the respective tank.

However I do need to power off the engine to be able to switch from aux back to main.

Per Dave Stedman the Fuel Pump ECU is the same part # regardless whether the rig came with an OEM aux tank or not. We were relatively certain there would be a different Fuel Pump ECU for each but not per Dave.

Also the 3-different speeds of both fuel pumps are controlled by the ECU. Joe couldn't figure out how to get the Fuel Pump ECU to control the aux fuel pump in mine as it does the OEM main fuel pump so he has mine running all the time on the #2 fuel pump speed for the aux. No issues though.

If I had to do it again I would install a system around the fuel pump similar to Toyota to prevent fuel starvation when the tank is below 1/3 capacity and on a steep climb.

All in all I am very happy with my aux tank set-up. It has come in very handy on numerous trips this past year. Only once did I actually need a little more capacity. That was when we did 300+ miles of off-roading (locked much of the time) and pulling a 2500lb trailer, my KK. A couple Scepter's on the bumper would have been ideal.

But it sure is a relief to have 500-mile range on the highway and not have to worry about refueling like I used to: On or off-road!


FWIW: I like the simplicity of my "Y" filler neck; less to go wrong. I wondered if the flapper style might be an issue when covered with mud and/or snow/ice/frozen whatever. Jereme relayed he did indeed have an issue with the flapper style on his 80 due to a similar caked up issue. But having said that I do, every once in a while, cuss CA out due to their ultra restrictive gas nozzles . But generally all the other states I've refueled in have not been an issue.

 

[24HOURSOFNEVADA]

If you want a 24 gallon tank, check my thread here. No cutting and welding needed! Which ever tank you choose, I suggest getting the OEM tank filler that has the plunger. I have the Y-type filler and certain pump nozzle are short and force me to hold the nozzle while it fills. Plus, many states (not NV apparentely) require the leaded restrictor plate in the filler which cannot be installed due to the y-type design.

Thanks Hoser. I had the OEM plunger on my 80 and it worked great except when it would get caked with mud, as the mud dried it would prevent my plunger from moving. The few times this happened was the exception, but both times required a pressure washer to free it. Not really ideal to locate a car wash before filling up.

Like I said though, it was rare.

My father was at Man-a-fre today working out some kinks with his aux tank on his fj cruiser. They told him they didn't know when they were getting any for the hundy in and that it would probably be "A while."

IMO that is the perfect size tank. I have a buddy's father in OZ. for three weeks. I wonder how big a package he can bring back?

 

[hoser]

I've heard you can buy it directly from LRA and they will ship it to the US though I don't know of anybody who has done so. The postal rates aren't too, too bad if by seamail but the current exchange rate is pretty horrible right now.

 

[Snailtrail]

My 2004 100 series has only one fuel gauge. There is an sub Tank push button to check the level of fuel in the sub tank. When you press it the word "sub" IIRC lights up next to the fuel gauge.

Thats the same setup the HZJ105R i took for a spin had. When running on the main tank the gauge shows the level of that tank. When the 'Subtank' button is pushed, a small 'Sub' illuminates on the fuel gauge, while at the same time the gauge shows the level of the subtank.

If i was installing a subtank into a 100/105 that was not originally equipped with one i would source the correct Fuel/Volt gauge - just to finish it of.