Odometer stopped turning (1 Viewer)

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Doc

Joined
Apr 26, 2004
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I had the same problem that others have had with a broken trip meter, so I took it out to clean it and re-install.

Anway, after installation the numbers in both the Main odometer and trip meters do not turn. At all.

I figure it's something electrical, but what? The speedo works, as does all other gauges it appears. Only effected gauge seems to be the odometer/trip meter.

I'm going to put some di-electric grease on the screws holding the gauge in, as they appear to be part of the larger circuit thingy on the back of the cluster. Maybe I had a bad connection... I'll let you know if that works.
 
You know, I really need to quit 'working' on my truck. Everytime I try to 'fix' something I end up screwing another up.

The di-electric grease did not help.

Any ideas would be appreciated.
 
Ok, they are turning now, but not as fast as they are supposed to, like it's gummed up or something.

In a nutshell, I went in and lubed up the cogs with some Boeshield T-9 and re-glued the broken piece.

The cogs spun freely before I re-installed, so they are not glued together. I'm wondering if maybe they aren't lined up correctly. I'll have to tear it down, for the third time.

why can't it be as easy as removing a 60's cluster?
 
There is a gear that comes off the odmeter that runs the trip. My trip would stop working and if I keep pushing the reset I would lock up that gear.
THe clutch on my trip reset was cracked so when I pushed it in it would lift the tumblers off the gear from the odmeter and when I let off the reset button it would not seat its self all the way.
When the cracked part would not releace the trip meter all the way it would lock up the ger from the odmeter and the odmeter wouldn't turn.
I removed the cracked part of the trip reset and the odmeter works fine but the tirp is no-go-anymore.

I could feel the reset button not go back and forth as it use to. Does yours feel like its not going in and out smoothly?
 
I've been recommending some contact cleaner/lubricator that is safe for plastics that I got from Radio Shack. It worked well for me. I also had the trip reset moving issue but a small squirt of this stuff into it's back side fixed it up real good.
 
Visual inspection shows my glued reset arm is pushing the gears away from the tumblers like it should, but the numbers only spin part way, like they're getting hung up on something.

I guess a closer look is in order, or I'll just have to remove that set of gears on the trip meter so the numbers can spin freely.

I'm not really worried about the trip meter, as much as I'm worried about the odometer. If that thing continues to refuse to turn I'll have trouble clocking my maintenance.
 
I think if it was not glued just right, it will not work correctly. I was going to glue mine but it looked like tooooooo much work and it may not hold up anyways.
I may just try to find a used odmeter and try and turn the odmeter number so it will match my milage.
OR I might just find one with less miles. This way I will have an 80 with less miles :cool:
I would like to find one with mileage in the 140's. No one would ever know that it realy has 265,000+ miles on it :flipoff2:
 
I'm not sure you can manually adjust the numbers on the odometer... I think they are driven by an electrical motor. You might have to remove the tumblers to do it, and I did not see an easy way to do that.

I've got e-mails into cruiserparts.net and nix99 looking for a 171k odometer, or there-a-bouts.
 
Well. Rick.
The 96 4RNR speedo is not the same, or I should say, its not the same price.
The 4RNR is about $50 more than the LC speedo head.
If if price means anything and the two are the same, as the LC speedo head SHOULD cost more :D
 
I only commented for someone junking for a part as they are probably more popular. I would expect the 4Runner to be more expensive even if it was the same because it was designed in, in 1996 verses the LC which was designed in, in 1991.
 
But, if it IS the same, it should cost less as they didn't have to designed it. THey would just steel it from the LC parts bin.
I am sure Toyota has a parts bin like mine :D
 
From my experience with working won multiple manufacturers is that the identical part when reused in a newer design will get a new part number and a new higher price. I'm not saying that this is what's happening here but it is real common.


Look at our own radiators. The older 3 row copper is cheaper than the 2 row aluminum. Last I new copper was more expensive.
 
As you have a 4RNR, send the wife out to a movie in a lome and try and swap out the speedo's.
Make it a double feature incase you....
 

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