Observatuon about new spindles and bearing torque (1 Viewer)

[Mighty690]

Spinning the hub by hand didn't feel much different than it did at 15 ft*lbf or 25 ft*lbf inner nut torque. It certainly spun without feeling like the bearings were bound up, but with the grease in there and the new seals its a little hard to feel small changes the bearing preload is making. Once you are to the point where the bearings are dragging you are way too tight. I'd guess that's in the 40-50ft*lbf type range. Probably still work, just at a reduced life.

That's good info, and similar to my experience. Mine felt nice, without much increased breakout force at 30lb/ft. They still turned fairly easily at 50 lb/ft, but I played with them a few turns and then backed torque off all the way, and then back up to 30 before securing it.

 

[motormayhem]

That's good info, and similar to my experience. Mine felt nice, without much increased breakout force at 30lb/ft. They still turned fairly easily at 50 lb/ft, but I played with them a few turns and then backed torque off all the way, and then back up to 30 before securing it.

Probably also worth noting the fretting on the ID looks bad, but I doubt it would detract from the function significantly. I suspect it was from the bearings getting hot and the temperature causing the bearing to change fit to the spindle (thermal deformation). Once the bearing wore in a little more and cooled down I suspect the fretting would have stabilized and been fine. The scoring in the races was also still light enough to not catch a finger. So again I think the worst had past as far as break in wear from over tightening them was concerned. But still I prefer not to wear them a bunch right out of the gate.

 

[MUDZLLA]

Seriously? Tighten the spindle nut hard then back off a 1/4 turn. Check for a medium firm spin and smooth roll with no discernible play. It's not rocket science.

 

[woodsman 44]

I think one of the best things you can do after new wheel bearings install is to recheck them after driving a few hundred miles or so....jack up the front and check for wheel play.

I found my passenger side was a touch loose and readjusted em...driver side was dead on....glad I checked.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Probably also worth noting the fretting on the ID looks bad, but I doubt it would detract from the function significantly. I suspect it was from the bearings getting hot and the temperature causing the bearing to change fit to the spindle (thermal deformation). Once the bearing wore in a little more and cooled down I suspect the fretting would have stabilized and been fine. The scoring in the races was also still light enough to not catch a finger. So again I think the worst had past as far as break in wear from over tightening them was concerned. But still I prefer not to wear them a bunch right out of the gate.

Something is odd. I don't think that level of wear on ID is typical unless bearings are run loose.

What brand were bearings and spindles?

I've had hubs apart after installing new bearings, torquing inner nut to 48, rotate, retorque, back off, torque to 25lb, outer nut torqued to 48lb and no adverse wear at all.
I've also used infra-red heat gun to compare hub temperature after installing bearings with this method, and no significant difference at any hub.

I think rotating the hub during the process is critical. I fit the wheel on the hub at this point so it's easy to rotate the hub, and feel for play in the bearings.
I also have played with this installing 'by feel' versus fish scale, versus torquing to preload.
I have followed the FSM and been able to feel play in bearings after a few hours running

I don't feel any real difference in the force required to rotate the hub with any method.

 

[motormayhem]

Something is odd. I don't think that level of wear on ID is typical unless bearings are run loose.

What brand were bearings and spindles?

I've had hubs apart after installing new bearings, torquing inner nut to 48, rotate, retorque, back off, torque to 25lb, outer nut torqued to 48lb and no adverse wear at all.
I've also used infra-red heat gun to compare hub temperature after installing bearings with this method, and no significant difference at any hub.

I think rotating the hub during the process is critical. I fit the wheel on the hub at this point so it's easy to rotate the hub, and feel for play in the bearings.
I also have played with this installing 'by feel' versus fish scale, versus torquing to preload.
I have followed the FSM and been able to feel play in bearings after a few hours running

I don't feel any real difference in the force required to rotate the hub with any method.

Spindles were Toyota and the bearings were Toyota (think they were koyo in the box). That setup the hubs were noticeably warm to the touch all the time, even if you drove a while intentionally not using the brakes and coasted to a stop to check. You can see they were not spinning the inner races as the rest of the ID is like new. After I re-did them they are ambient temp pretty much all the time and the no play in them at 2000 mile check. Threw timkens in when I re-did it.

 

[mudgudgeon]

You can see they were not spinning the inner races as the rest of the ID is like new.

This is why I was wondering about parts used. Whether poor tolerances was a factor?

 

[Rusty Marlin]

I think one of the best things you can do after new wheel bearings install is to recheck them after driving a few hundred miles or so....jack up the front and check for wheel play.

I found my passenger side was a touch loose and readjusted em...driver side was dead on....glad I checked.

Did this today after 1000 ish miles on the new bearings. Passenger front was loose, all other OK. Glad I had extra lock rings in stores.
I'll Check them all again in another 1000 miles.

 

[woodsman 44]

Did this today after 1000 ish miles on the new bearings. Passenger front was loose, all other OK. Glad I had extra lock rings in stores.
I'll Check them all again in another 1000 miles.

Good call!

I need to check mind again, its been awhile and curious if any play since last time...

 

[mudgudgeon]

Funny, after commenting in this thread, I had an issue with brakes last week.
Pedal was sinking too far to the floor before pulling it up.
No visible issues with brakes, so I checked bearings. On thinking about it, I think its about 18 months since I did bearings.

Both fronts were noticeably loose.
I removed locking nuts and thrust washers, checked bearings for signs of wear.
No obvious wear, bearing grease still clean.
I installed trail gear locking nut system. Retorqued bearings to 48lb, rotated the hub with the wheel on, and retorqued to 48 (about another 5⁰ rotation on the nut)
Backed off the nut, retorqued to 30lb, rotate the hub, retorqued to 30lb (again another 5+⁰ of rotation on the nut)
I tried using a 4lb lump hammer and again the tire sidewall a ½dozen times or so, then creche torque. I got another few degrees rotation on the nut to get back to 30lb.

Brakes are back to normal.

Will try to remember to check bearings again in a few 1000k km

 

[VivaToy]

I guess I'm curious why these would be loosening up? If the locking washer is locked and the two nuts are unable to move, where is this play coming from? And torquing bearings down to 25-30ft/lbs works for lots of ppl obviously, but it's taking away pre-load capacity of the bearing, correct?

Seems like the only reason more space would be found in the hub is if races aren't seated all the way.

 

[Rusty Marlin]

I guess I'm curious why these would be loosening up? If the locking washer is locked and the two nuts are unable to move, where is this play coming from? And torquing bearings down to 25-30ft/lbs works for lots of ppl obviously, but it's taking away pre-load capacity of the bearing, correct?

Seems like the only reason more space would be found in the hub is if races aren't seated all the way.

I have a similar concern. The races where seated with 12K# press, seems like that should have been enough. But I'll keep an eye on it.
The spindles are defiantly worn out of round and they are on the list of replacement parts when I do the knuckles. I didn't get to them over Christmas like I wanted.
One side is starting to get a little oilier than they other, it 's just a matter of time till the axel seal gives up the ghost entirely.