O2 Sensor - OEM vs Denso? (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter SunTzuMD
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Denzo makes them for Toyota. The best prices I've found on Denzo o2's are from Amazon. I got the pair for mine for $95!
Yup!
Looks like you have 3 sensors. Two in front of the cats and one behind.
You'll need the following part numbers--
DEN 234-4157 $70.87 (o2 in front of cat)
DEN 234-4520 $231.63 (looks like this is an air fuel ratio sensor)
DEN 234-4153 $57.00 (o2 rear of cat)
The prices are from Amazon.
Looks like you have 3 sensors. Two in front of the cats and one behind.
You'll need the following part numbers--
DEN 234-4157 $70.87 (o2 in front of cat)
DEN 234-4520 $231.63 (looks like this is an air fuel ratio sensor)
DEN 234-4153 $57.00 (o2 rear of cat)
The prices are from Amazon.
Yep, get the Denso from rockauto and save $100+.
I bought a set recently from rockauto for around $130 shipped.
Denso' s are just as good (Don't get Bosch). I used Denso's for over 5 years now with 60K on them & no problem whatever. You really don't need OEM's overpriced stuff for O2 sensors, brake pad/rotors, oil, spark plugs etc.
I would only use OEM's for stuff like starter, alternator, brake MC & booster, etc.
I would only use OEM's for stuff like starter, alternator, brake MC & booster, etc.
The same. MIke
Just replaced my sensors yesterday with those units from Amazon. Truck is running much smoother and the P0420 is gone!
I'm try to order the Denso from amazon but having trouble with making sure its correct ones.
234-4153 & 234-4157 correct?
234-4153 & 234-4157 correct?
Sorry, never mind. I see them in the post now.
to be honest I find these O2 sensor threads rather odd.
The O2 sensor dictates the final fueling of the engine and the AFR.
So basically if the O2 sensor dictates a lean condition then that is what the engine will run at. Since the ECU relies on the O2 sensor to accurately report the AFR it will not question the signal it receives.
The O2 sensor is the one and only component in the system that can create this condition and NOT cause a CEL.
I'd stick to OEM.
The O2 sensor dictates the final fueling of the engine and the AFR.
So basically if the O2 sensor dictates a lean condition then that is what the engine will run at. Since the ECU relies on the O2 sensor to accurately report the AFR it will not question the signal it receives.
The O2 sensor is the one and only component in the system that can create this condition and NOT cause a CEL.
I'd stick to OEM.
OEM stands for "original equipment manufacturer" and Denso manufactures the sensors for Toyota. Therefore Denso is the OEM.
Google "Toyota keiretsu" for a larger understanding of the supplier situation in Japan.
Last edited:
Why do you find these threads odd? Because we didn't use the parts with toyota stamped on them or because we (I) waited so long to do it? Seems like these "OEM" denso sensors people are using work fine. It at least has to better than what I had before...
This is just a little info on Toyota.
San José State University info:
The Toyota Group, the One and Only Horizontal-Vertical Keiretsu
Denso:
http://www.denso.com.au/News-Releases/2011/DENSO-Australia-wins-Toyota-Supplier-of-the-Year
San José State University info:
The Toyota Group, the One and Only Horizontal-Vertical Keiretsu
Denso:
http://www.denso.com.au/News-Releases/2011/DENSO-Australia-wins-Toyota-Supplier-of-the-Year
Last edited:
I find it odd because in the past there has been a hypersensitive concern over having the engines run dangerously lean but people keep talking about not using OEM parts concerning the 1 item that could produce that condition.
O2 sensors are the keystone to proper fueling and going with aftermarket units can be risky. The work needed to evaluate that the aftermarket sensor is safe isn't worth the savings in my opinion.
And you need to define "work fine". Since it's the O2 sensor that triggers a CEL then you can't use that sensor to determine "works fine"
I had no idea about how the suppliers worked in Japan. Very interesting read...thanks
Keiretsu corporate networks | Japan -- Business People Technology | www.japaninc.com
The million dollar question? Replace ($$$) or Clean your O2 sensor .
Replace the oxygen sensor only if it's bad. They do wear out and the FSM, Chilton's or Hayne's manual for your car should have directions on how to test it.
An OEM replacement sensor for some popular cars is about $240, and your car probably has two of them. If you replace it with a cheap sensor from a discount parts store, you may be throwing away a perfectly good high quality sensor which just needs to be cleaned.
Here's a quote from a Toyota mechanic with 32 years of experience, on another web site:
"You don't need to replace them, remove them and clean them. [If you read an O2 sensor malfunction code] The computer is saying the vehicle is running a little rich or lean. IT DOES NOT mean the sensor(s) are bad. Auto parts stores just want to sell you products. If I received a dollar every time a 02 sensor was replaced on a vehicle I'd have millions."
That said, there doesn't seem to be an "official" way to do it, or an entirely safe way. But since you ask, here are some ways people have done it:
1. Clean it with a throttle body aerosol cleaner which states that it's safe for oxygen sensors.
2. Heat it up with a torch and dip it in water. Use an air hose to clean the gunk out. Repeat.
3. Soak it in "Seafoam" (the engine cleaner, not salt water) overnight.
4. Soak it in gasoline overnight. Shake the dissolved gunk out.
It's one of those things, like nobody's going to tell you how to clean your bathroom mirror with ammonia at $0.99 a gallon, but lots of people are happy to sell you ammonia with blue die in it at $4.50 a pint.
Replace the oxygen sensor only if it's bad. They do wear out and the FSM, Chilton's or Hayne's manual for your car should have directions on how to test it.
An OEM replacement sensor for some popular cars is about $240, and your car probably has two of them. If you replace it with a cheap sensor from a discount parts store, you may be throwing away a perfectly good high quality sensor which just needs to be cleaned.
Here's a quote from a Toyota mechanic with 32 years of experience, on another web site:
"You don't need to replace them, remove them and clean them. [If you read an O2 sensor malfunction code] The computer is saying the vehicle is running a little rich or lean. IT DOES NOT mean the sensor(s) are bad. Auto parts stores just want to sell you products. If I received a dollar every time a 02 sensor was replaced on a vehicle I'd have millions."
That said, there doesn't seem to be an "official" way to do it, or an entirely safe way. But since you ask, here are some ways people have done it:
1. Clean it with a throttle body aerosol cleaner which states that it's safe for oxygen sensors.
2. Heat it up with a torch and dip it in water. Use an air hose to clean the gunk out. Repeat.
3. Soak it in "Seafoam" (the engine cleaner, not salt water) overnight.
4. Soak it in gasoline overnight. Shake the dissolved gunk out.
It's one of those things, like nobody's going to tell you how to clean your bathroom mirror with ammonia at $0.99 a gallon, but lots of people are happy to sell you ammonia with blue die in it at $4.50 a pint.
I think the point I was trying to make was that there are many people here that likely have deficient O2 sensors without a CEL (as many people have never replaced them), and I haven't seen this as being a big issue before. I have also seen many threads with mudders who ran with bad sensors and just ignored it or erased the CEL as it popped up for thousands of miles with seemingly no immediate major effects. I thought my O2 sensors had been fouled from coolant from a blown HG, and a P0420 code confirmed that. Even with the CEL, the only symptoms were an occasional miss at idle and poorer gas mileage. I don't think anybody really knows if the OEM sensors have some sort of magical specification that makes them better, but do you really think going with "OE" denso's instead of authentic OEM could have the detrimental effects you are implying? Not trying to disagree with you about the mechanics, as I'm sure your level of knowledge about the system is greater than mine, I'm more just wondering if running with bad or questionable sensors really have the possible consequences you are leading on to, with many people, myself included, maybe not taking this part as seriously as other parts on the truck.
And by "work fine", I just meant that the upstream/downstream sensors are sending an adequate signal composed of the difference in amplitude described in the FSM to let the ECU know that the cats are working properly, which prevents the ECU from throwing a code, and alleviates my occasional rough idle and poor mileage. So far, I think that is what has happened. Also, I definitely agree with you that analyzing the signal that the sensors I bought are sending to the ECU and comparing to OEM is beyond my skill level in this area and wouldn't be worth it. Guess I'll just have to see if trying to save $200 pays off or comes back to haunt me.
