- Thread starter
- #281
slow_sc3
NOW WITH A 0-70 Launch! Well i did a thing.. my 97 lx build. distributorless/turbo/h151f (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter audi2nr
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
lol this is nuts. well done 
following
- Thread starter
- #284
minor update, made a mount for my diode dynamics 18" led bar and i was finally able to test it tonight. Still not wired up permanently as i need to order the toyota light switches that fit in the blanks on the dash. Man this sucker puts out some light for being tiny, it has 2 driving beam lenses on the outer lights and a flood beam pattern on the middle light. I watched a few reviews on diode dynamics products and i am sold.. next i plan on removing and replacing the ugly arb turn signals and putting some of their flush mount SS3 pods in their place. I also got the autotragic shift pattern removed from the cluster and i replaced the cluster bulbs with red led's also from diode dynamics, still need to do the hvac bulbs.
i'll get a longer video but here's a short clip
i'll get a longer video but here's a short clip
Last edited:
mehbohdi
SILVER Star
Thanks for posting, would you mind posting shop/tuner you are using I'm also in Wa and I don't know any tuners that will touch this, I have been wanting to go this direction since I installed my Wits-End kit. 7 lbs. isn't enough.
Thanks for your time
Thanks for your time
- Thread starter
- #286
lol i agree 7lbs is definitely not enough however it's pretty much all you can get away with safely on a stock ecu. I did all the work on my truck including ecu setup and wiring, the ecu was remote tuned by shawn christenson (tunedbyshawn.com) and i rented out carb connections dyno for 3 hours to get it all dialed in. As far as a one stop shop i don't really know who can help you here in WA. I know there are a few haltech tuners in washington and any of the tuners who support haltech should be able to help you out, i was going to have turbogixxer tuning do the tuning locally but our scheduled did not work out, however i am very pleased with shawn's tuning and support. I will say that if you do end up doing the remote tune you really need to know the ins and outs of your truck, how boosted vehicles work and be able to repair/diagnose any issues that may arise during tuning as the tuner won't be there to help you wrench. let me know if you have any more specific questions and i'd be glad to help out as much as i can. are you still on the automatic transmission?Thanks for posting, would you mind posting shop/tuner you are using I'm also in Wa and I don't know any tuners that will touch this, I have been wanting to go this direction since I installed my Wits-End kit. 7 lbs. isn't enough.
Thanks for your time
mehbohdi
SILVER Star
Thanks for response, I do most of the work on 80, I know carbs better the fuel injection, I'm old, but I know how its suppose to work and what sensors do what. That being said converting over to a Haltech at some point might be in the future or something equivalent. I am still running Auto. I saw earlier in post @scottrtyana is using oem TCM for trans and Haltech for ignition. This seems like the right direction. I guess I need to figure out all peripheral stuff, injector size, fuel pump, any sensors I'll need to add. I have a AFR/Boost with wide band now been thinking about adding boost controller just to see if I can push it up slowly. Based on what I have observed with AFR it is a tad rich at 7psi. I'm not trying for max numbers just more of what's possible with out digging into engine. I have a very good example of 4.5 no leaks, no oil consumption, PO ringed and bearinged the engine and total rebuilt head and I've been driving it 6 years before Turbo and still flawless. Joey (Wits-End) claimed 235 whp when he did the test mule, if I could get 300ish + on pump gas (92-93) that would make me happy. I have a hopped up Cummins to pull s&!t, Thanks for you time
- Thread starter
- #288
Sweet sounds like a rig ready for some more boost! In my opinion if i were running a setup like that and i were going to try and up the boost to 10psi or so i would look at getting an intercooler setup, looking over my dyno logs on a 10 psi run i had a pre intercooler air temp of about 175-180 F during the meat of the pull and starting at around 100F at idle before the pull my after intercooler temps were around 67f-94f. Even if you are on the rich side you still will probably find detonation is right around the bend with out intercooling and an ecu with non user adjustable timing control, you also should be concerned with the condition of your knock sensors. This 10 psi run also netted me 296 whp and 383 ftlbs of torque, all on pump gas with an injector duty cycle of around 60% on my injector dynamics 725cc injectors.. i forgot about your fuel system... not sure how high the stock pump and injectors can be pushed
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #289
Not much new here, truck is running absolutely top notch. I had a box of parking brake shoes and new wheel bearings for the rear axle I never got installed when I was doing the majority of the build. So I decided to tear those guys down the other day and get the work done. Im still waiting on new inner hub seals from toyota, I got a pair from marlin crawler awhile back but they don't have extra rubber seal thing like the toyota parts have so I'm basically waiting for those before putting everything back together. Also working on getting a better camera and mic setup to get some cool turbo noise videos. My Amazon ultrasonic cleaner came in very handy for cleaning out the hubs and brake parts.
@audi2nr - Just read through all of this - fun build, thanks for documenting it!
What did you end up running for a FPR and where did you mount it? Didn't see anything about it.
Any details on the intercooler components you used? IC looks like a type 14 from Frozen? What about pump, tank, and heat exchange? I've been trying to figure out how to cram a water-to-air IC in that same PS front corner but haven't been able to figure out the best mounting for the IC. Yours came out really slick.
What did you end up running for a FPR and where did you mount it? Didn't see anything about it.
Any details on the intercooler components you used? IC looks like a type 14 from Frozen? What about pump, tank, and heat exchange? I've been trying to figure out how to cram a water-to-air IC in that same PS front corner but haven't been able to figure out the best mounting for the IC. Yours came out really slick.
- Thread starter
- #291
I am running an aeromotive regulator p/n 13136 and it is mounted to the intake manifold with a bracket i made. -6an feed line comes up and through the middle of the intake manifold in the hole there, the -6an return line comes off the front port on the rail and goes through the same hole in the intake manifold to the regulator then through the flex fuel sensor then to the re-purposed stock fuel feed line with an adapter to allow it to accept an AN fitting. I am running the frozen boost A2W intercooler kit, it has the type 14 intercooler, type 117 heat exchanger 12"x12"x2" and i got the upgraded bosch intercooler pump, i am not running the electric fan as there is no room to fit the fan however the clutch fan is powerful enough to draw air through the entire stack of coolers up front with proper ducting. I am using a 2.5 gallon tank i got off amazon that was sold as a "fuel cell" i welded up the holes i didn't want and installed 3 new bungs, 2 for the water in and out and the other for a temp sensor. this is the link to the tank. amazon fuel cell@audi2nr - Just read through all of this - fun build, thanks for documenting it!
What did you end up running for a FPR and where did you mount it? Didn't see anything about it.
Any details on the intercooler components you used? IC looks like a type 14 from Frozen? What about pump, tank, and heat exchange? I've been trying to figure out how to cram a water-to-air IC in that same PS front corner but haven't been able to figure out the best mounting for the IC. Yours came out really slick.
It seems to be working well at this point especially with low boost however i do either need to purchase an airbox ,torfab has a nice one i am looking at that utilizes a stock duramax airfilter, or i can just finish the shield/box setup i was making to enclose my aem filter, both setups feed air from the fender area to help keep iat's down. If you look a few posts back you can see what kind of iat's i was reading on the dyno.
I am running an aeromotive regulator p/n 13136 and it is mounted to the intake manifold with a bracket i made. -6an feed line comes up and through the middle of the intake manifold in the hole there, the -6an return line comes off the front port on the rail and goes through the same hole in the intake manifold to the regulator then through the flex fuel sensor then to the re-purposed stock fuel feed line with an adapter to allow it to accept an AN fitting. I am running the frozen boost A2W intercooler kit, it has the type 14 intercooler, type 117 heat exchanger 12"x12"x2" and i got the upgraded bosch intercooler pump, i am not running the electric fan as there is no room to fit the fan however the clutch fan is powerful enough to draw air through the entire stack of coolers up front with proper ducting. I am using a 2.5 gallon tank i got off amazon that was sold as a "fuel cell" i welded up the holes i didn't want and installed 3 new bungs, 2 for the water in and out and the other for a temp sensor. this is the link to the tank. amazon fuel cell
It seems to be working well at this point especially with low boost however i do either need to purchase an airbox ,torfab has a nice one i am looking at that utilizes a stock duramax airfilter, or i can just finish the shield/box setup i was making to enclose my aem filter, both setups feed air from the fender area to help keep iat's down. If you look a few posts back you can see what kind of iat's i was reading on the dyno.
Man, this is extremely helpful, thank you! I read through the thread a couple times last night to make sure I wasn't just missing this somewhere.
I have a Radium DMR FPR that I've been trying to decide whether to mount directly to the rail or remote mount exactly where you have yours. Also have a Radium fuel filter that I'm trying to find a good spot for...
For my 80, I'll be sticking with the stock ECU so only low boost for me. I've been planning on a meth setup for it to help with cooling but your dyno temps and the small form factor of that A2W setup has me considering otherwise. Do you have a picture of how the IC is actually mounted to the frame/fender?
Are you running a charcoal canister at all? Only thing I don't see in that picture haha
- Thread starter
- #293
it's a bit tight up at the front of the engine (especially since you have a large distributor in the way) to fit the regulator in my opinion, but maybe your regulator might fit? i used these fittings to adapt the m12x1.25 thread on the rail to a male -6an Amazon product ASIN B07K1PNFH8 i mounted my injector dynamics 750f fuel filter on a bracket i made in front of the clutch master, you'll have a decent amount of room there since you are automatic. I got some pics as best as i could but i just made some rudimentary steel brackets out of i think 1/8" thick by 1.5" metal, i was going to make one for the top but felt it was supported enough with the 2. The intercooler has 2 spots on the bottom for brackets and one on top that i just stuck a bolt and crush washer on as the hole is not blind and goes into the air passage. In my opinion an intercooler either a2a or a2w would work better than a meth setup as the intercooler will allow overall iat's to come down vs only when on boost for the meth injection. I think the meth is best saved for the cooling and octane boost required for high boost levels. i am not running a charcoal canister but i could have as the haltech can control the evap purge system, however free real estate in the engine bay was pretty much all used up so i ditched it.
This is all incredibly helpful, thank you. Except I finally thought I figured out how to fit everything in my engine bay and now I need to rethink everything haha
Funny enough, I had that exact Amazon fuel rail fitting delivered yesterday. Do you remember if you installed it with just the o-ring and/or the sealing washing? I wasn't sure it would work because it doesn't have the exact same o-ring/washer setup as the OEM FPR.
alia176
SILVER Star
Do you have a thread on your endeavor that I can check out?
- Thread starter
- #296
ok i had to take a quick look again, so the aft end of the rail i used the fitting with the supplied crush washer as there is a large flat sealing surface and the forward fitting i used the green o ring only as there is a beveled surface with a very small flat area on top it is sealing fine with 60+ psi of fuel pressure at times. I'm not sure if you are going to need AN lines but i've been getting mine from this place for quite some time now and have used them on several engines. AN Pre Made Hoses. | AN Plumbing - https://www.anplumbing.com/pre-made-hoses.html i just use the economy series lines, stainless steel braid, ptfe liner, fully crimped not assembled AN fittings and made in the USA and their prices are very very reasonable.
Last edited:
Unfortunately not, planned on making one years ago but just never could find the time (damn kids
lol). Any free time I do get now I try to spend actually working on and using the cruisers. The little bit I do post I put on IG under the same name.
alia176
SILVER Star
It's all good amigo. Please keep me in the loop when you decide to do an intercooler thing as I need to do something similar. Kids and time are precious, they'll always take priority over all else.Unfortunately not, planned on making one years ago but just never could find the time (damn kids
I wasn't aware of anplumbing.com - prices look great, going to give them a try for sure.
I did some measuring today and I think I can fit the smaller "Type 9" in a similar angled fashion as yours and still retain the OEM airbox. That one is rated to 350hp so it should suffice for my measly 8psi. I may be able to cram the larger 600HP "Type 3" but I'm not certain on that yet, it'll be very close.
Either way I'll need to clock the turbo outlet to the 7-8 o'clock position and reroute the AC line that goes to the firewall. When you rerouted yours, did you just cut the ends of the OEM line and crimp your own hose? I've been looking for an adapter so I don't have to crimp lines but no luck so far.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #300
Yeah you will just have to get kind of creative with the placement of things but no doubt you can make things fit. As far as getting a hose made I went through coldhose.com for a custom hose and used some denso compressor adapter fittings one on the fire wall and one on the compressor to allow the hose to screw on. Denso adapters there are plenty of choices online just Google denso compressor adapters. The kit I posted has a -8 and a -10 o ring fitting You'll need 2 -10 ends to do it like i did, then just choose your length of hose and end type (90-45-straight) (be sure of the clocking position of the ends as well as the ends do not swivel) in the -10 flavor from cold hose. I bet you can probably find a local a/c shop to make you a hose for cheaper than cold hose though.
