NOW WITH DYNO NUMBERS! Well i did a thing.. my 97 lx build. distributorless/turbo/h151f (1 Viewer)

how many waygu beef powers and torques did project waygu beef make?

  • 100awhp!

  • 200awhp!!

  • 300awhp!!!

  • 400awhp!!!!

  • 500awhp!!!!!

  • 600awhp!!!!!!?


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Well well welll what do we have here.. sorry for the crappy quality but here are a few exciting nuggets. Nugget 1Nugget 2 not running much boost yet like 5-6 lbs but even at that she's a completely different animal... coolant temps are rock steady at 185 with the griffin rad and blue clutch + 7k silicone. I have way better res video from my gopro but I didn't have time to edit the video down. Not dyno tuned yet just doing a short break-in/shake down period for the clutch and to make sure no leaks or anything catastrophic happens, hope to strap it down maybe end of the month? After the initial run in maybe 30 min or so got the oil and filter changed. Still have some trim to finish on the shifter console area then I can do the carpet. Also got my minions to help with the hood insulation.
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Haven't driven her much except for today, had to fix a few leaks and had to replace the spring in the tial bov as it wasn't strong enough and the valve kept opening under idle vacuum conditions. Got the main carpet installed, man that was a pain in the butt, but honestly I don't have patience for that type of work. On top of that the tunnel mods I had to do raised that area about an inch so I could fit shifter boots/trim which caused the carpet to bunch in areas so lots of cutting and trimming was required. Thankfully the ugly stuff is covered by seats and trim, came out nice enough. Now that she's good enough to put some miles on I'll be driving it more so we can get to the dyno.
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Looks great man, coming together!
Thanks! It's been a long road, longer than I wanted or expected but it's worth it. Put about 100 miles on it today, substantially more power than stock and even not fully tuned mpgs seem to be at stock levels, I've been watching my afrs as I drive and there is definitely room to get more efficiency out of her. One thing I have observed and knew going into the trans swap was the lack of a very good over drive gear. In 5th at 60-65 I'm right around 2300 but if it's anything like my 2jz I've found that these i6's aren't bothered by freeway cruising at 3k. I still have little items to button up but being able to take it out makes the wait worthwhile.
 
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You ever install the Dayco crank pulley?
Yes works perfect! One thing to note, when I measured actual TDC with the head off I found that with my brand new toyota timing cover actual TDC when lining up the pulley was not inline with the 0 on the timing cover, it is like barely less than 1 degree advanced. Not a huge deal but just an observation. You can see the black mark where I marked actual TDC would line up. The crank pulley isn't lined up in the pic its just where it ended when I shut the engine off.
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Yes works perfect! One thing to note, when I measured actual TDC with the head off I found that with my brand new toyota timing cover actual TDC when lining up the pulley was not inline with the 0 on the timing cover, it is like barely less than 1 degree advanced. Not a huge deal but just an observation. You can see the black mark where I marked actual TDC would line up. The crank pulley isn't lined up in the pic its just where it ended when I shut the engine off. View attachment 3133741
Good to know, thanks. I’ll be installing mine soon.
 

alia176

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Forgive the ignorance but what is the advantage going this route?
For a stock engine none, for a race/ high hp / high rpm it can handle more abuse. The balancer carries an sfi 18.1 rating which means it's tested at 12k rpm for 1 hour to carry the sfi rating. but per dayco they test to 21k rpm. I needed a new one and this wasn't much more cost than an oe one. You could say I am working these engine parts harder than stock as well... lol
 
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550 miles on her, finally recirculated the oil catch can vent, man I was getting tired of the open vent and oil smell. Pulled the valve cover and checked valve lash, and everything is spot on. Everything up top looking absolutely gorgeous as well. The driven hvl and br40 oil have protected the metal well absolutely zero marks on anything. I have some of their dt40 5w40 synthetic that I will be running normally on the way. Pulled the spark plugs and they look good as well. Some black soot from running rich initially as we were setting its base tune, but the porcelain is nice and clean no signs of detonation, opening up the gap from .24 to around .30 and we'll see if she handles boost without misfireing at that gap. I was running low 20s gap in my turbo sc but that was running way more boost (in the high 20s psi ) so I think I can do .30. Should have one or 2 more rounds of tune updates before we head to the dyno.
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Last minute details before the dyno, got a lightly pre loved delta vs 3" panhard bar bracket from @Feldrian as it was too small for his lift if I remember correctly. P.s. Beautiful rig sir.. also have 2 new bushings for the bar that need to go in and 2nd I was noticing quite a bit of oil in the catch can after recirculating the catch can and drawing vacuum on it. When I refinished the valve cover and installed the an bungs I removed the baffling to get all the chips/old sealant/ and old oil residue out, but never reinstalled the baffle. So I reinstalled it to try to help keep some of that oil inside the head and not the breather. So I drilled out the rivets minus 4, threw the baffling in the ultrasonic cleaner with simple green then re riveted the baffle back in. The 4 rivets I did not remove require very very short rivets due to the screw holes for the spark plug wire holders being right on top, so if you drill too deep you'll just go through the cover. There are more than enough fasteners installed to keep the baffle more than secure. Soooo with that being said stay tuned... dyno scheduled for Wed and we're gonna let her eat!




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