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- #221
Still moving slowly... 
got these bits back from ceramic 
got these bits back from ceramic
NOW WITH A 0-70 Launch! Well i did a thing.. my 97 lx build. distributorless/turbo/h151f (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter audi2nr
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- Thread starter
- #222
wow ok, well I left you without an update for about a month now and I figured it's about time for one. Progress has been well kind of slow, gearing up for summer and stuff, had some friends and family visit and that took up a bunch of time not to mention I've not been able to get my tuner locked down yet and that ultimately is what is holding everything back. So to pickup where we left off, I found the blower motor resistor to my surprise was nuked, I felt like it was working but maybe i really didn't have all blower speeds? either way, I was able to pick up a new one and replace it. I got the a/c new resistor, denso evaporator, denso condenser, denso reciever drier and denso expansion valves in as well as replaced all the foam insulation. I wrapped up all the wiring and got everything tucked up as best as possible. I'm not 100% happy with the new harness and haltech jumper harness so I will be making an entire new harness from scratch (probably this winter) and delete the haltech "plug and play" adapter as it turned out not to be very plug and play in my opinion. I picked up an @Delta VS washer tank relocation bracket in hopes that it might fit, I know it wouldn't fit the wits end kit but luckily it works on my setup. Got the core support all tidied up with the new power steering hoses, cooler, and thermostat. Got the mocal oil cooler thermostatic sandwich plate and hoses and oil cooler installed, as well as the water to air inter cooler heat exchanger and hoses installed. As I was installing the old radiator fan shroud I saw it had an inch long crack near the top so I got a new one and got the radiator, shroud and all the other components up front sealed up with silicone foam insulation to make sure all the air gets directed through the cores and does not by pass anything so the cooling system works effectively. Dropped in a new interstate battery and finally this afternoon I was able to start filling up the fluids!!!!!! 4 gallons of 50/50 aisin coolant was not enough to fill the system so i got another 2 gallons on order, I put roughly 1/2 gallon of mobil dte 24 ultra in and bled the system manually just running the wheel back and forth, there's still air in the system but it won't come out till the pump runs. Lastly I vacuumed the a/c system for a long ass time and leak checked it then filled it, well I failed to remember that this thing doesn't start duh.... so I was only able to fill the system maybe 1/3 of the way, then I got the bright idea to try and run the compressor by hand to try and have it suck the refrigerant it like you would do if the engine were running, well by hand it didn't work but with my electric ratchet and a 10mm I was able to get enough rpms in to draw in the rest of the refrigerant and per the refrigerant scale I was able to get the 1.9 lbs of r134a in the system! Lastly after probably a month and a half i got my 390mm nardi classic steering wheel, i'm waiting on my matching shift knobs for the tranny and t-case to show up from rodak garage. ok.. photo dump time.
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- #223
More photos from the story above..
Where did you buy your Gen 2 distrutorless head? I’ve been looking high and low. Thanks
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- #225
I posted the correct partnumber in your thread, I got it from partsouq.com last year.
Sorry. K Thanks.
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- #227
Well still waiting on my tuner, I have another I am trying to lockdown but both guys are crazy busy, pretty depressing... however I just keep chipping away at little things here and there... I got the ecu online and updated and tested several functions with the exception of running the engine so everything works electronically, all sensors and stuff read so that's good.. got got oil system pressurized and full of oil with a diy pressure filler made out of a new garden sprayer hooked up to a fitting I connected to the forward most top plug of the oil cooler. got a pair of sweet shift knobs to match the nardi steering wheel from rodak garage they are currently on etsy/instagram but are opening an online store front. They are made from camelthorn its a nice heavy dark African hardwood. I was also toying with the idea of grafting a 70 series hood scoop on the hood but the work required just kind of turned me off and I really don't like the look of a lot of the bolt on hood vents / louvers but I came across an idea from the Honda s2000 community awhile back and implemented it on my truck. Basically just using perforated aluminum sheets and cutting out holes in the hood around the reinforcements.. I'm not 100% done yet cleaning up the holes and mounting the panels but you'll get the idea.. I will be trying body color first and if I don't like it I'll be going black. I also made a mount for my bti can gauge for the haltech, it displays all haltech data the ecu can output and has the capability to switch ecu functions on and off like boost control/traction control/nitrous any sort of limiter etc.. etc.. depending on your ecu configuration. I used a witsend switch blank. I have some new carpet on order and I'm honestly thinking of deleting the front console for now as it doesn't really doesn't serve a purpose except have a crappy little cubby and hide the auto shifter stuff that doesn't exist anymore. The carpet comes uncut so I can just cut out around the shifter rubber boots. Anyway here are some pics.
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- #228
And the inspiration for the hood vents. Still not 100% on the black color either, I just want it to be as incognito as possible while still being effective so I will try body color first
The vents remind me of the TRD 3000GT body for the JZA80.
Ooh I dig those vents. My under hood temps are ridiculous with the turbo and I’ve been looking at a scoop, but I really like the low key look you have going.
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- #232
Thanks! there isn't much electrically in that area and if there is the connectors are all weather pack so water can't get inside, however i do live in the wet/snowy pacific north west so i will be making some inserts so i can block off the holes when necessary. i had previously wanted to do a snorkel to aid in cooler intake air so i left the duct but now that i think about it the stock duct is probably too small, so yeah that's a great idea i'll yank that thing.
I totally forgot about that thing haha! but yeah it for sure has the same theme from that supra kit which is pretty cool!
thanks! i just put a 3/8" spacer taped to a sharpie and traced out the holes following the pattern inside the hood, put blue painters tape on the exterior of the hood to protect the paint, then i drilled like 3 or 4 holes from the inside on the radius's following the pattern i traced, then on the exterior of the hood on the tape i traced out the radius's via the holes drilled then connected straight sides with sharpie and cut from the outside with a hand held jig saw with a fine tooth metal blade, it worked very well. i left a bit of meat on all the areas so i could go back and smooth out the edges with a sanding drum on a dremel.
This thing keeps gettin sicker….
- Thread starter
- #234
Thanks man! I also forgot to post it but I got the bowfin cruisers rack assembled finally. It was sitting in a box for several months and I finally decided to pull it out and throw it on. It's real nice. I also got some dei heat reflecting tape I will be installing on the under side of the rest of the hood as there won't be a hood insulation pad anymore. Still on the hunt for some clips I can use to secure the mesh to the hood as well.This thing keeps gettin sicker….
alia176
SILVER Star
I'm curious about the under hood temp mitigation; is it better to go with those sticky back heat deflection matts or put the OEM hood backer back on? I took mine off when I had the louvers punched into the hood so I'm curious which would be more effective. I have yards of Rattle Trap sound deadening material but I don't think this is the correct application due to the fact that I recorded 200+ deg under hood temps when standing still 
I bet the black adhesive would simply melt.
Thanks.
I bet the black adhesive would simply melt.Thanks.
- Thread starter
- #236
I used the dei gold tape before on my turbo sc300 and it worked well without coming apart. The silver and gold tape from dei is made of fiberglass and aluminized foil, its rated to 2000f radiant and 400 direct heat i have no doubt it will work well on the hood. I also am really really happy with how the vents turned out and their location directly above the hot parts turbo/downpipe and wastegate. The front most opening is also basically over the cooling fan so I have no doubt these holes will be allowing the bay to vent well.I'm curious about the under hood temp mitigation; is it better to go with those sticky back heat deflection matts or put the OEM hood backer back on? I took mine off when I had the louvers punched into the hood so I'm curious which would be more effective. I have yards of Rattle Trap sound deadening material but I don't think this is the correct application due to the fact that I recorded 200+ deg under hood temps when standing still
Thanks.
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- #237
Found these nos turn signals...
Just kidding... amazing what a little bit of wet sanding and polishing can do for plastics/paint... Polishing went as follows. Spent maybe 15 min per light polishing. 400/800/1000/3000/polishing compound. Then into the ultrasonic bath for 15 with water and dawn soap to get all the crud out of the inside.
Just kidding... amazing what a little bit of wet sanding and polishing can do for plastics/paint... Polishing went as follows. Spent maybe 15 min per light polishing. 400/800/1000/3000/polishing compound. Then into the ultrasonic bath for 15 with water and dawn soap to get all the crud out of the inside.
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- #238
More fun stuff while I wait for my tuner, going to be very very soon... but in the mean time got my carpet kit as well as materials for diff/trans/t-case breathers some nice thick 1/4" silicone hose, I wish it were black but that was on mega back order, and some Briggs and Stratton filters and some random tees. Also picked up an extra exhaust housing for the turbo, this is a 1.01 ar vs the .83 which is on right now. My gut is telling me the .83 is going to be too small exhaust housing as this turbo is already smallish for an engine of this size, and yes while I do want it to light up quick going too small on the exhaust can choke flow through the engine. More air flow will mean more power potential and an easier flowing exhaust which will mean lower egts.
jomelo
SILVER Star
So how much power are you looking to get?
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- #240
I'd like to run it right at around 350-400 hp and I have the capability to program up to 7 levels of boost control i'll probably run 4 levels for simplicity sakes. This is long as the wastegate plumbing and gate can sufficiently bypass enough air around the turbine, this is particularly why I want the 1.01 housing cause the smaller the housing the less air it takes to spool and we are already on the small size for this engine. I can and might test between both housings as I already have both, its just dyno time cost and tuner time cost at this point. So we'll see what she does, I know i have plenty of fuel pump and injector for those numbers and the turbo has enough air for those numbers as well. Ideally the boost control will be spring pressure (7psi) at level 1 and go up from there. We will see what happens.
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