Builds (Now a build thread) FJ40 Rubicon Prep (1 Viewer)

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Countersunk both sets of bolts for the intermediate plate.

Not sure how I lived for decades without transfer punches… If you do fab work and don’t have a set, buy a set.

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Not everyone is going to like the fairlead being below the bumper but there it is. Everything is behind the approach plane as defined by the tires and shackles and it’s way higher than the drag link, tie rod, and diff.


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That is Going to turn out nice
 
A Rubithon is certainly an option in the future but this trip is with a group of long time local friends. We did the White Rim trail in Moab last year…. Trying to do at least one serious trip together every summer.
I’m in the same boat- we did the White Rim for my friends 50th last year. Now it’s my turn and we’re headed to the rubicon!! Front locker going in next week fingers crossed!!
 
Real time help please.

Attaching the Orion this afternoon.

Was led to believe that the T-case can be swapped in the truck.

Got everything apart and moving in the right direction until this:

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There is simply not enough room to slide the T-Case off the tranny output shaft…

Thinking about two options here.

A: Unbolt the rear engine mounts and see if the tranny will drop down enough for removal.

B: Unbolt the tranny from the bell housing.


Any other ideas are welcom.

SQ
 
You’ll only get the thickness of one rear motor mount puck downward before the bellhousing mount hits the frame, if that’s enough down then it’s a quick removal of the bolts. If you need more room, then remove the bellhousing mount brackets - the next hold up would be the head against the firewall. A quick measurement should tell you how much you need.
 
I myself would consider cutting that crossmember out and making it so you could bolt it back in .
 
Shot in the dark & it’ll be cumbersome, could you tilt the top of the case toward the rear of the truck. This *might* get you enough room to get it past the output of the tranny. Maybe in conjunction with tilting the engine.

Unfortunately. This isn’t going to help with the orion. It’s a heavy mother. Honestly, I’d pull the tranny too….
 
Real time question:

Have made loads of progress in the last few months and did a proving run out to a local 4WD playground last week. The truck ran perfectly until it didn’t!!!

After fueling up before the trail head it started surging and losing power. The issue came and went and managed to wheel most of the day as it still ran OK at idle. When it came time to head home it would t maintain speed above 20MPH without surging and bucking. Reads like a classic fuel delivery issue. Came home on a strap for 40 miles behind a JEEP (Oh the humanity!)

Starting the trouble shooting process today and just ran a fuel volume test. Removed the line off the carb and cranked for 15s.

This netted me around 4oz of fuel in a glass jar.

How much is enough here?
 
First off the part about being towed by a Jeep 🤦🏻‍♂️ Are you crying out for a case of Bud light here 🤷‍♂️.
 
You probably got some debris in the carb
 
Real time question:

Have made loads of progress in the last few months and did a proving run out to a local 4WD playground last week. The truck ran perfectly until it didn’t!!!

After fueling up before the trail head it started surging and losing power. The issue came and went and managed to wheel most of the day as it still ran OK at idle. When it came time to head home it would t maintain speed above 20MPH without surging and bucking. Reads like a classic fuel delivery issue. Came home on a strap for 40 miles behind a JEEP (Oh the humanity!)

Starting the trouble shooting process today and just ran a fuel volume test. Removed the line off the carb and cranked for 15s.

This netted me around 4oz of fuel in a glass jar.

How much is enough here?
You just need enough to keep the fuel bowl full!

I would check/do:

1. fuel filter clear
2. fuel lines clear
3. fuel bowl on carb has sufficient fuel when experiencing stumble. if low on fuel, you have a pump/delivery issue.
4. clean all carb fuel passages

If it ran fine prior to filling up, it is likely a debris issue. I'm assuming you have a carbureted 2F?
 
Yea… EWheeler nailed it!

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Carb Job

Fuel Pump Rebuild

Filter

Soft lines

…. In progress
 
@squeezer City Racer sells accelerator plungers separately that are supposed to be better than the ones supplied in current carb rebuild kits.
 
@squeezer City Racer sells accelerator plungers separately that are supposed to be better than the ones supplied in current carb rebuild kits.

Hmmmm

Might have to do that upgrade…
 
Todays Question:

The fuel pump rebuild kit only came with two check valves, there are 4 in the pump…

which side does a person replace?


UPON EDIT


In the pumps with 4 check valves, the valves are staked in place and not serviceable.
 
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Time for a fun post. ( While I wait for the carb kit to show up)

Rock Sliders:

After looking at all the offerings out there the decision was made to build them…

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Worked on mimicking the existing body lines/details.

The leading edge is chamfered at 45 degrees following the fender line and the back has a radius.

The front mount is the running board bracket with the rear being heavy wall tube and a bolt plate.
 
A few more pics.

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