Events/Trails November 2021 ROTM - Rug Road Run - 11/20/2021 - 11/21/2021 (1 Viewer)

[peacesells63]

More info please.

Forged johnny joint on the axle end, factory bushing on the frame side and 2" .250 wall DOM in between. Been running them on my 80 for 2 years, they are much better than any link that uses polyurethane bushings, and thicker/larger diameter tube than most aftermarket lowers.

 

[D_Web]

Thanks for the offer @peacesells63 - first I'm going to try sleeving the factory arms with @ARJMN

I'd like to retain factory bushings at both ends, I think they make a big difference.

 

[peacesells63]

Thanks for the offer @peacesells63 - first I'm going to try sleeving the factory arms with @ARJMN

I'd like to retain factory bushings at both ends, I think they make a big difference.

They definitely do. The rear suspension on 80’s and 100’s bind like crazy, the the flex of the rubber bushings is the only thing that helps account for that. Solid links (with heims or Johnny joints at each end) are a recipe for stressing and eventually ripping brackets. Polyurethane bushings are a “worst of both worlds” IMO. They bind really bad and don’t absorb vibrations.

You’d be surprised how little strength sleeving the solid links adds, you would be much better off getting some proper size tube and re-tubing the links. It’s less work too

 

[D_Web]

You’d be surprised how little strength sleeving the solid links adds, you would be much better off getting some proper size tube and re-tubing the links. It’s less work too

Removing the bushing "holder" (not sure on the technical term?) and welding on to new tube?

I was thinking just cut it in half then putting it in some chromoly tube - I thought this was the hotness for reinforcing factory arms?

 

[ARJMN]

They definitely do. The rear suspension on 80’s and 100’s bind like crazy, the the flex of the rubber bushings is the only thing that helps account for that. Solid links (with heims or Johnny joints at each end) are a recipe for stressing and eventually ripping brackets. Polyurethane bushings are a “worst of both worlds” IMO. They bind really bad and don’t absorb vibrations.

You’d be surprised how little strength sleeving the solid links adds, you would be much better off getting some proper size tube and re-tubing the links. It’s less work too

@peacesells63 I am always open to learn from others. Can you send me an outline of your setup? I was planning to go get some 3/16 or 1/4 wall tubing, the mill them ID to be a slight interference fit, and secure with a healthy bead of metal caulk on the end and a few rosette welds. This would be using the original link with the trimmed ends being inserted into the tubing.

 

[peacesells63]

Removing the bushing "holder" (not sure on the technical term?) and welding on to new tube?

I was thinking just cut it in half then putting it in some chromoly tube - I thought this was the hotness for reinforcing factory arms?

leaving a 3" piece of the factory link on both ends, replacing the center with 1.75" .250 wall tube.

If you do cut the link in half, cut on one end or the other, otherwise you will have a stress point in the center of the link (where it is most likely to get hit)

I have seen quite a few people sleeve 80 lowers and bend them again. Not to say they aren't stronger, but they aren't as strong as larger diameter tube.

 

[peacesells63]

@peacesells63 I am always open to learn from others. Can you send me an outline of your setup? I was planning to go get some 3/16 or 1/4 wall tubing, the mill them ID to be a slight interference fit, and secure with a healthy bead of metal caulk on the end and a few rosette welds. This would be using the original link with the trimmed ends being inserted into the tubing.

That sounds like a good plan for sleeving. I would go with at least 1.75" .250 wall DOM. The bushing cups on the 100 series links are pretty narrow (I think about 1.8" wide) so you cant go with larger OD tube than 1.75. The clearance slots in the 100 series frame brackets are small too. The factory links are something like 1.28" diameter, so if you want to machine fit the ends to the tube you would have to go to a thicker wall tube.

I am using the forged ends from early fj80 links with an 80 series bushing for the rubber end. If you cut the welds on the factory 80 links and pull them out of the tube, the insert part is about 1.4" and fits nice in 2" .250 wall. Other end is a a johnny joint, you can get them in 18mm or 14mm hole for 80 or 100 series. On the other end you can buy (or make) an 18mm to 14mm sleeve or drill the frame mounts out to 18mm and use 80 series hardware.

 

[Saddletramp]

Sorry I missed the excitement on the trail. Thank you Jason for leading this classic run and camp.