Tools / materials I used:
Milwaukee M12 3/8" compact impact driver
Milwaukee M18 angle grinder with metal cut-off disks
Milwaukee M18 drill (for grinding wheels and carbide burrs)
12mm, 16mm, 19mm sockets
3/8" hex head bit
Rustoleum spray paint
Some metal grinding wheels for hole enlargement
Grinding wheels, files and sand paper to smooth out cut metal
Rubber mallet
A screwdriver, wrenches, pliers
Two 13mm strips of wood for spacing
A multimeter for testing the fog lights (but that's tangential)
I'll be referring to the step numbers here: https://sleeoffroad.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/PUB_SOK1268_Installation_Instructions.pdf
Here are the bolt / socket head sizes I used.
Steps:
2. Install the license plate / solenoid bracket as shown with the M8 hardware.
I didn't mount the solenoid plate. I left the solenoid / control box in place, with a scant millimeter of clearance from the bottom of the valence below the grill. I think I might leave it unless I see a problem. There is very little flex upward in the bumper in the middle there (more on the wings), and I can flex up the valence a good inch and it falls right back, so I might just put some adhesive foam between the two surfaces and see if I ever have a problem.
Otherwise I need to relocate the control pack to the solenoid brack or inside the engine bay, which seems like a hassle and requires a wiring kit from Warn.
You might want to test fit the bumper and make your marks for the holes before installing the winch in the bumper, especially if you are shifting it all around by hand by yourself. It's heavy to lift the bumper and winch into place together.
If you need to spool the winch, I would definitely do that before installing the bumper. You can wait until the bumper is installed to tighten the bolts that mount the winch to the bumper.
4. Remove the grille by removing the three Philips screws.
5. Remove the three bumper clips as shown.
I didn't need to remove the grille or pop out any of the clips, but my bumper was already partially torn off so that step was probably done for me.
7. Remove the bumper cover and the molded foam.
Probably obvious, but you don't need to keep the bumper cover, foam or brace. These can be sold / trashed or whatever. The fog light assemblies may be worth hanging on to.
9. Secure the OE Fog light connectors.
My fog lights worked when I took the bumper off, but now they don't and there's no current at the connectors. One was bare wire ripped out of the connector from when I ripped off the bumper, so I assume it shorted out but the driver's kick-panel fuse looks OK, so I dunno what's going on there. Was hoping to mount some basic fogs on the bumper and use factory stalk controls.
10. Remove the OE tow hooks (driver and passenger).
I only had one hook, but two brackets. I don't know if you can or would want to reinstall these; I didn't. Bumper has recovery points obviously.
11. Remove the OE front splash pan.
Don't throw this one out, you'll put it back on. The 12mm-head bolts are pretty short and I couldn't get some of them to engage again, particularly the ones that tie in to the plastic "armor" that sits behind the drip pan. I guess I need to find some longer bolts in that size.
You might be able to skip taking off the rear-most bolts for the pan and just remove the front three and two on the side... then the pan is kinda dangling from the rear bolts, so you might need to support it a bit, but let it dangle down low enough for the bumper to slide in above it.
14. Cut the end of the frame off as indicated.
Sounds scary. Was very easy with an angle grinder. It's really obvious what to do -- get rid of the "extra" welded on parts, keep the main full frame members intact.
15. Slide the Slee bumper onto the frame to determine the amount shim(s)...
I used three for each back bolt. Wish I had 3 more for each front bolt, right now there is a gap there. Because these spacers are open on one end, if something flexes and it loosens up, they can just fall off the bolt. Kinda wish they were washers, but it would be harder to install washers. Will get some washers for the front two bolts.
15. ... Mark the four holes on the frame that will need to be drilled.
Do this carefully, there's some wiggle-room but get it pretty close. I couldn't make a good dimple and my bit wandered a little, and I had to enlarge the holes slightly afterward.
Afterward
Reinstall the drip pan!
All in all, a challenging process for a novice, but totally doable, and with great results. Really like the bumper and winch.
Milwaukee M12 3/8" compact impact driver
Milwaukee M18 angle grinder with metal cut-off disks
Milwaukee M18 drill (for grinding wheels and carbide burrs)
12mm, 16mm, 19mm sockets
3/8" hex head bit
Rustoleum spray paint
Some metal grinding wheels for hole enlargement
Grinding wheels, files and sand paper to smooth out cut metal
Rubber mallet
A screwdriver, wrenches, pliers
Two 13mm strips of wood for spacing
A multimeter for testing the fog lights (but that's tangential)
I'll be referring to the step numbers here: https://sleeoffroad.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/PUB_SOK1268_Installation_Instructions.pdf
Here are the bolt / socket head sizes I used.
Steps:
2. Install the license plate / solenoid bracket as shown with the M8 hardware.
I didn't mount the solenoid plate. I left the solenoid / control box in place, with a scant millimeter of clearance from the bottom of the valence below the grill. I think I might leave it unless I see a problem. There is very little flex upward in the bumper in the middle there (more on the wings), and I can flex up the valence a good inch and it falls right back, so I might just put some adhesive foam between the two surfaces and see if I ever have a problem.
Otherwise I need to relocate the control pack to the solenoid brack or inside the engine bay, which seems like a hassle and requires a wiring kit from Warn.
You might want to test fit the bumper and make your marks for the holes before installing the winch in the bumper, especially if you are shifting it all around by hand by yourself. It's heavy to lift the bumper and winch into place together.
If you need to spool the winch, I would definitely do that before installing the bumper. You can wait until the bumper is installed to tighten the bolts that mount the winch to the bumper.
4. Remove the grille by removing the three Philips screws.
5. Remove the three bumper clips as shown.
I didn't need to remove the grille or pop out any of the clips, but my bumper was already partially torn off so that step was probably done for me.
7. Remove the bumper cover and the molded foam.
Probably obvious, but you don't need to keep the bumper cover, foam or brace. These can be sold / trashed or whatever. The fog light assemblies may be worth hanging on to.
9. Secure the OE Fog light connectors.
My fog lights worked when I took the bumper off, but now they don't and there's no current at the connectors. One was bare wire ripped out of the connector from when I ripped off the bumper, so I assume it shorted out but the driver's kick-panel fuse looks OK, so I dunno what's going on there. Was hoping to mount some basic fogs on the bumper and use factory stalk controls.
10. Remove the OE tow hooks (driver and passenger).
I only had one hook, but two brackets. I don't know if you can or would want to reinstall these; I didn't. Bumper has recovery points obviously.
11. Remove the OE front splash pan.
Don't throw this one out, you'll put it back on. The 12mm-head bolts are pretty short and I couldn't get some of them to engage again, particularly the ones that tie in to the plastic "armor" that sits behind the drip pan. I guess I need to find some longer bolts in that size.
You might be able to skip taking off the rear-most bolts for the pan and just remove the front three and two on the side... then the pan is kinda dangling from the rear bolts, so you might need to support it a bit, but let it dangle down low enough for the bumper to slide in above it.
14. Cut the end of the frame off as indicated.
Sounds scary. Was very easy with an angle grinder. It's really obvious what to do -- get rid of the "extra" welded on parts, keep the main full frame members intact.
15. Slide the Slee bumper onto the frame to determine the amount shim(s)...
I used three for each back bolt. Wish I had 3 more for each front bolt, right now there is a gap there. Because these spacers are open on one end, if something flexes and it loosens up, they can just fall off the bolt. Kinda wish they were washers, but it would be harder to install washers. Will get some washers for the front two bolts.
15. ... Mark the four holes on the frame that will need to be drilled.
Do this carefully, there's some wiggle-room but get it pretty close. I couldn't make a good dimple and my bit wandered a little, and I had to enlarge the holes slightly afterward.
Afterward
Reinstall the drip pan!
All in all, a challenging process for a novice, but totally doable, and with great results. Really like the bumper and winch.
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