For Sale Not mine, looking to see what folks think about this 87 FJ60 (1 Viewer)

Location

United States

1987 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ60

Up for sale is a great example of an original FJ60 Land Cruiser. It is a 1987 with 260,000 miles. 5 speed manual with 4WD. Runs and drives very well for an old car. Suspension and steering are tight,

sacramento.craigslist.org

I've always been a huge fan of the 60 series cruisers and have kept an eye on the market for them. Lately I've been thinking of making a purchase. Hoping this forum can help weigh in on this one. This one is supposedly running but won't pass smog due to vacuum line issues. What does this group think about a fair negotiating price? Or is this vacuum line issue too much of a headache to dive into? Any help would be appreciated

 

[ksrunner]

1987 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ60

Up for sale is a great example of an original FJ60 Land Cruiser. It is a 1987 with 260,000 miles. 5 speed manual with 4WD. Runs and drives very well for an old car. Suspension and steering are tight,

sacramento.craigslist.org

I've always been a huge fan of the 60 series cruisers and have kept an eye on the market for them. Lately I've been thinking of making a purchase. Hoping this forum can help weigh in on this one. This one is supposedly running but won't pass smog due to vacuum line issues. What does this group think about a fair negotiating price? Or is this vacuum line issue too much of a headache to dive into? Any help would be appreciated

I think it should come to the east cost immediately.

 

[Paul DiNapoli]

$5500.00 for a rust free truck - someone already did a 5 speed upgrade, fresh rubber....that's a pretty darn good price.

no pics of the frame means you've got some research to do... all the trouble spots for rust (wheel arches, rockers, roof gutters) all need to be looked at very closely.

look over the service receipts if you can...find out what else has been done - what has been neglected.

the vacuum stuff is not that big of a deal to work out. if it's truly a rust free california truck - you should do it.

the rear looks to be sagging a bit - which is not uncommon for 30 year old truck. new leaf springs can set you back almost 2,000 for the hardware - if you're handy with tools you can install yourself and save labor $$$.

I would budget that you're gonna spend another 1 to 3K pretty quickly. baseline fluids, radiator / front knuckle rebuild / tune-up / belts / hoses / etc... all the little things add up...but you'll still be driving an FJ60 - and be under 10K for a rust free truck.

do it!!

 

[KHB]

I thought the 5 speed was a good upgrade too but the ad says "All stock with no modifications other than the cargo rack" which i thought was odd. Correct me if i'm wrong but there wasn't a 5 speed option from factory right?

I'm hoping to crawl underneath it and verify the rust free claim tomorrow

 

[Paul DiNapoli]

Correct me if i'm wrong but there wasn't a 5 speed option from factory right?

good question - i'm not certain about that - but there's a bunch of way more knowledgeable folks on here who will chime in. I was under the impression that all the USA FJ60's came with the 4 speed. I could totally be wrong on that...and it wouldn't be my time!

the H55F is the 5 speed transmission - the stock trucks would have shipped with an H42 4 speed.

the 5 speed is very nice... nice enough that all of us with FJ62's that came with automatics are ripping out the auto and installing the H55F.

good luck with the inspection - and post more pics for us.

 

[Ocho77]

Seems like a steal to me. Will be gone quickly!

 

[RodrigzCrzr]

Looks like they changed the ad to 4 speed.

 

[tstockto]

Failed smog on these can be a giant pain. I doubt it failed because of cracked vacuum lines. But replacing all the vacuum lines is easy if you have the diagram and some new hose to cut. Pretty sure CA seller and CA buyer has the requirement for the seller to provide a passing smog cert. but your only recourse is money back return the truck. So if you buy it non op technically you can’t even park it in the street. The dmv expects you to get a special moving permit to drive it. Those are good for one day from point a to point b. All that said $5500 still seems low for rust free failing smog I would budget another $5k in passing smog, baselining and new rear leafs.

 

[Vincenzo]

Looks like from the pics, the right front fender and left rear quarter had something going on. Possible accident, bondo cracking in left quarter by taillight, and right fender or could be a bit of rust cover-up...if thats the only issues aside from smog, looks pretty decent for the price. I'd ask for undercarriage/wheel well pics.

If it was in TX (no smog crap) and those were the only issues, I'd probably jump on it

 

[srogers]

Look under the carpet in the rear cargo area, particularly around the rear wheel arches. As stated, check out the frame and body behind both fenders; there is a small pocket behind the front fender/in front of the mud flap, as well as the top of the arch in the rear fenders where there is a small (1/2") lip. Both areas can collect dirt/debris and are prone for rust. This is still a great price, but at least you know going into it what you are getting yourself into...

 

[KHB]

Update:

I went and checked it out today. Some rust starting to firm under the windshield as is typical but looks to be fairly structurally sound and can possibly be sanded down and resealed with a fresh paint job which I would do if I made the purchase. Fender wells and frame looked good. I didn’t peel up the carpet but I crawled underneath and it looked ok.

As far as mechanics goes, It pops out of first gear unless you’re actively holding it in gear. There is a lot of vacuum lines missing and some were unplugged. He said he just plugged in the ones that were unplugged to random spots.

Still undecided but I really appreciate all the info y’all have given!

 

[georgebj60]

Keep us posted. A replacement H42 transmission is not hard to come by if that's the biggest issue besides smog. For someone mechanically inclined that wants to work on one of these, this seems like a good starting point; and this one probably won't last long if it really is close to rust-free.

But as others have eluded to, it's just a starting point. The money it takes to get these trucks to optimal running condition adds up fast.

All that said, I have no experience with smog, or CA regulations.

 

[RodrigzCrzr]

Update:

I went and checked it out today. Some rust starting to firm under the windshield as is typical but looks to be fairly structurally sound and can possibly be sanded down and resealed with a fresh paint job which I would do if I made the purchase. Fender wells and frame looked good. I didn’t peel up the carpet but I crawled underneath and it looked ok.

As far as mechanics goes, It pops out of first gear unless you’re actively holding it in gear. There is a lot of vacuum lines missing and some were unplugged. He said he just plugged in the ones that were unplugged to random spots.

Still undecided but I really appreciate all the info y’all have given!

When you drove this? Did it sound like it had an exhaust leak? Did it stumble as you drove it? Did it look like all the smog stuff was intact?

 

[KHB]

i didn't hear an exhaust leak and it definitely hesitated and stumbled in first gear. and as far as smog stuff the vacuum lines were cracked and missing like the ad says

 

[RodrigzCrzr]

i didn't hear an exhaust leak and it definitely hesitated and stumbled in first gear. and as far as smog stuff the vacuum lines were cracked and missing like the ad says

Ok thank you

 

[Pigeaten]

I picked up a 1987 a year ago for $1000, took 22,000 to go through it all,+ 5 spd, (no paint) it can add up. but a very cool vehicle. good luck