Normal Knuckle Arm shim count (1 Viewer)

[TexFJ]

Took my knuckle apart and I found something interesting and worrisome.
- Firstly, No C clip on the outer front axle shaft, but somehow it all stayed together, albeit shaky I'm sure.
- With that I judged everything else as potential slop
- Then I found 2 shims up on top and 4 shims down below. Yikes. the preload was pretty loose before I tore it apart IMO, now I know why.

So, anyone find 4 shims on theirs? OR did the sloppy previous rebuild just get those mixed up and it should have been a 3 on top and 3 on bottom?

I don't really want to find the SST somewhere in town to make sure the knuckle is centered. ugg.

 

[diesellibrarian]

Without the SST, it's simply impossible to know. The shims are there to compensate for minor variations in the knuckle castings. If you don't want to re-measure with the SST, your best bet is probably to reinstall the shims in the same configuration. If you need to increase pre-load, you can maintain the existing knuckle position by removing the same size shim from both the top and bottom. Not all shims are the same thickness, so if they're not marked you may need to measure them.

 

[TexFJ]

Ya, I think I'm in a pickle here. Perhaps I'm not trusting of the past work done as I think 4 shims is a little over the top, hence just a shim put on bottom instead of the top. Wonder what the factory usual config was for '88.

FSM gives a hint of 2 shims but there's instances of 3.

 

[diesellibrarian]

It's my understanding that there was no "usual" factory config, and that each truck rolling off the line was likely to have a slightly different shim setup. If you suspect that a previous owner has messed with yours, your best bet is to measure it. I think there are a couple of MUD members that have made their own version of the SST - I'll see if I can find a thread. It's important to get it right or you'll wear out your axle seals prematurely.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Here are a few who have the tool... @CenTXFJ60, @60Works, @Jaric00n

 

[TexFJ]

Measured the shims. 4x.5mm up top and 2 x .2mm on the bottom.

I'm starting to have more confidence on this config. Plus I'm not sure I was having issues with this config.

On another topic, what are these bolts for? They're just there and do nothing.

›

 

[mattressking]

Measured the shims. 4x.5mm up top and 2 x .2mm on the bottom.

I'm starting to have more confidence on this config. Plus I'm not sure I was having issues with this config.

On another topic, what are these bolts for? They're just there and do nothing.

›View attachment 2404245

Steering stops. Adjust them to limit steering travel lock to lock.

As far as shims...usually its thick on the bottom, thick and a thin up top. Using the tool @NeverGiveUpYota mentioned is key if the shims were mixed up or inconsistent. If there's teq shims and non teq shims, someone has fiddled with it in the past and I would start from scratch.

 

[kevin in okinawa]

Measured the shims. 4x.5mm up top and 2 x .2mm on the bottom.

I'm starting to have more confidence on this config. Plus I'm not sure I was having issues with this config.

On another topic, what are these bolts for? They're just there and do nothing.

›View attachment 2404245

Those are your steering bump stops

 

[SuperDuperCruizer]

The SST alows you to measure the total thickness of shims required for the top and bottom. So, you’re using a combination of shims to get as close to the desired thickness as possible. You can measure each of the shims to see what the total aim was for the top or bottom. Then decide if you have what you need in your rebuild kit shim pack to reduce the number of shims to get the same desired thickness.

 

[cps432]

Ya, I think I'm in a pickle here. Perhaps I'm not trusting of the past work done as I think 4 shims is a little over the top, hence just a shim put on bottom instead of the top. Wonder what the factory usual config was for '88.

FSM gives a hint of 2 shims but there's instances of 3.

I vauguely recall having 4 shims on the top for both sides of mine. Been a few years since I had that apart...

Edit: I hope I don’t have 4 shins...

 

[cps432]

Measured the shims. 4x.5mm up top and 2 x .2mm on the bottom.

I'm starting to have more confidence on this config. Plus I'm not sure I was having issues with this config.

On another topic, what are these bolts for? They're just there and do nothing.

›View attachment 2404245

I may be wrong but I think those bolts are related to the braking system.

 

[TexFJ]

Steering stops. Adjust them to limit steering travel lock to lock.

As far as shims...usually its thick on the bottom, thick and a thin up top. Using the tool @NeverGiveUpYota mentioned is key if the shims were mixed up or inconsistent. If there's teq shims and non teq shims, someone has fiddled with it in the past and I would start from scratch.

How can I tell a Teq and non Teq shim?
I'm now doubting that it was a mix up since the sizes are all together .5s up top and .2s on the bottom. I should open up the other side before I put the other together to compare. Plus at least someone else had this as well (@cps432 )

 

[SuperDuperCruizer]

Aftermarket shims I’ve seen had no markings and I needed my dial calipers to determine thickness. OEM shims had TEQ logo and shim thickness printed in a sort of blue colored coating.

 

[Godwin]

How can I tell a Teq and non Teq shim?
I'm now doubting that it was a mix up since the sizes are all together .5s up top and .2s on the bottom. I should open up the other side before I put the other together to compare. Plus at least someone else had this as well (@cps432 )

It is the total thickness of shims that is important for 1) centering the knuckle on the ball of the axle 2) setting preload. The number of shims is unimportant as shims come in different thickness so that once you know the needed total thickness you can select the correct shims.

The SST is needed for this to do it properly.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Too much guess work. In this many days someone could have shipped you the tool. Some seek a small rental fee, some don’t. It’s a fun task.

 

[g-man]

I agree with mattressking. Mine was one large and one small on top and one large on the bottom.
Click on my build in my sig. line and go to pg 7 start reading at post #125 about my loose knuckle. My advise is to get the SST and a shim kit if your knuckle was loose and flopping around....leaking axle seal and no snap ring. Check your birf ball for wear, check the trunion bearings for damage ...if they are damaged/disintigrated/ rolling around loose... see if they damaged your knuckle where the trunion bearings seat.

 

[fjc-man]

Sent you a pm.