craigslist Nor Cal: 1999 Toyota Land Cruiser (Not Mine, price suggestions) (1 Viewer)

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Year
1999
Vehicle Model
  1. 100 Series
Location
United States
Mileage
180000
Color
Gold
THIS IS NOT MINE FOR SALE.

I saw this 99 LC on CL and was thinking about purchasing. What do you guys think about it overall?

NOTE: He has sent me photos of all records and VIN for carfax, everything checks out. Minor fender bender in the Carfax but fortunately with no major work done at all, wasn't serious.


Onto the post I have seen:

1999 Toyota Land Cruiser

- Clean title, pink slip in hand

- California Car its entire life

- Car has been in the family since 10/04/2004 at 65,125 miles

- Carfax in hand

- This has the factory equipped rear differential locker, great for off-road trips

- Interior 8.5/10 Exterior 8/10, with a polish it would be 9/10

- Currently 174, 942 miles

Services:
- I have receipts and proof of all services

- Timing belt, drive belt, water pump, coolant, upper and lower radiator hoses, idler and tensioner pulleys, T-fittings, radiator cap, cam seals, thermostat and gasket, valve cover gaskets, 8 spark plugs, spark plug tube seals done at
173, 146 miles

- Side cladding paint re-spray

- Fuel injection system cleaned

- Engine oil change, transmission fluid change, brake fluid change, front middle and rear differential fluid change, power steering fluid change, new grease in grease fittings

- New door lock motors

- New OEM Toyota key fob

- New hood struts

- Sankei 555 Ball joints, inner and outer tie rod ends

- Front OEM CV axles

- New rear differential actuator

- OEM front and rear brake rotors and pads

- Four wheel alignment

- Cabin air filters and engine air filter

- Cleaned Carpet

Upgrades:
- Old Man Emu 2.5 inch lift, Old Man Emu Torsion Bars, SPC upper control arms, Slee-Off-road differential drop kit

- TJM front steel bumper

- Ceramic window tint

- New Upgraded leather seats

- Weather Tech wind deflector and floor mats

- Dashmat dash cover

- Steering wheel cover

- Dashcam and back-up camera

- Upgraded LED interior lights, LED High Beams and front and rear turn signals and reverse lights, HID Headlights

- Upgraded LED taillights

- Short antenna

- Rear seat organizers

- I also have the 3rd row seat, they were removed for extra storage, side steps and roof rack rails

- Method MR316 rims with Nitto Ridge Grappler Tires 285/70R17 (Less than 1000 miles on new wheels)

Im asking 21,000 $ or best offer.



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I remember seeing this go up for sale a few months ago asking $26k or something pretty high. Clearly he's trying to upscale but it's still a nicely built car. The way I see it is to try and calculate how much the car would be in stock form; decent condition (8/10) with 175k miles could be worth about 13k-14k after negotiations. Now add the parts, tires, accessories, etc. so I'm estimating about $6k for extra parts, on the low end, without installalation fees. I always estimate the price assuming someone does their own work because the money put into a car for the work-time done at a shop shouldn't be included in the price, if that makes sense. Plus maintenance is a strong factor but just because you spent $2k on a timing job last year doesn't mean I'll be paying you $2k more.
So $21k is a lot but it more fair than $26k. If you can negotiate down to $19k I think you'd have a solid deal.
 
Who ever buys it will want to lower the front end.. he cranked up the t-bars and there is no way that has a safe amount of droop on the front suspension...

That said, I agree that 17 to 19 is fair... Been seeing the prices on the early 100s going up lately and I'm not sure it's warranted...
 
Who ever buys it will want to lower the front end.. he cranked up the t-bars and there is no way that has a safe amount of droop on the front suspension...

That said, I agree that 17 to 19 is fair... Been seeing the prices on the early 100s going up lately and I'm not sure it's warranted...
How can you tell the t-bars are cranked all the way? And wouldn't the shock down travel limit the suspension before any other vital component binds?
 
The front sits too high... The issue is not with mechanical safely, it's about safe handling. With the bars cranked this much, he can't have very much wheel down travel. When you didn't have enough down travel, or droop, hitting even a small bump can cause the tire to lose contact with the road since it can't drop far enough to maintain contact. After the initial bump upwards.
 
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I remember seeing this go up for sale a few months ago asking $26k or something pretty high. Clearly he's trying to upscale but it's still a nicely built car. The way I see it is to try and calculate how much the car would be in stock form; decent condition (8/10) with 175k miles could be worth about 13k-14k after negotiations. Now add the parts, tires, accessories, etc. so I'm estimating about $6k for extra parts, on the low end, without installalation fees. I always estimate the price assuming someone does their own work because the money put into a car for the work-time done at a shop shouldn't be included in the price, if that makes sense. Plus maintenance is a strong factor but just because you spent $2k on a timing job last year doesn't mean I'll be paying you $2k more.
So $21k is a lot but it more fair than $26k. If you can negotiate down to $19k I think you'd have a solid deal.
Awesome, thats basically the same thing I was thinking as well.
 
The front sits too high... The issue is not with mechanical safely, it's about safe handling. With the bars cranked this much, he can't have very much wheel down travel. When you didn't have enough down travel, or droop, hitting even a small bump can cause the tire to lose contact with the road since it can't drop far enough to maintain contact. After the initial bump upwards.
Very much indeed cranked. If I pick it up it will be adjusted to the correct amount.
 
A lot of good work/maintenance had been done on this one, for sure. It will be a winner for those who like the mods, yours truly not included. IMO, lift, aftermarket wheels and oversized tires actually detract from value.
 
It will be a winner for those who like the mods, yours truly not included.
This. I feel like a lot of people total up the costs of mods in their head and use it to justify their asking price/the sale price of a truck they're looking at. Mods only add value if the buyers/you want those exact mods. Otherwise, a $1,000 mod should be looked at as adding $250-300 in the best case scenario (buyer didn't really want X but it's close enough to what they did want that they'll keep/use it), or detracting from value like 89GASHOG pointed out.
 
I'll just chime in with this: as previously mentioned that one's been for sale for a while, i've been watching it for weeks. IMO it's a $15k-$17k 100. There's enormous value in buying CA (valley, foothills) vehicles in that they're rust free, and in some cases the underbody will be free of even surface rust. Rocklin is at the base of the sierra's, so worst case Ontario, it was in the snow a few times, but free of salt. Seats are in good shape, it's got newer tires, some solid service records, a hideous bumper, and it's fairly clean overall. It's a 99, that could be a turnoff to some people, and as also mentioned it's going to need some significant suspension work to not ride like a covered wagon. These are all subjective opinions, but could mirror others like myself that have looked at it and said, 'for that price, i'll pass'. I don't fault the seller though for trying to grab up some of the stimulus pump. Market prices across the board rose correspondingly, not shocked.

OP, it's worth the drive if he sounds reasonable, it's just money. Sell me your 80 and keep the 100 😁
 
a hideous bumper

This.

I think that price is nuts. It's arguably one of the least desirable starting platforms for a 100 series: 4 speed, 2 pinion diff, gold. Nothing wrong with that - it's still a 100 series, but they're pricing it like an 03+ model.

If it were me I'd rather wait for a stock vehicle for less money and slowly maintain / modify it to how I want - but that's just me.
 
This.

I think that price is nuts. It's arguably one of the least desirable starting platforms for a 100 series: 4 speed, 2 pinion diff, gold. Nothing wrong with that - it's still a 100 series, but they're pricing it like an 03+ model.

If it were me I'd rather wait for a stock vehicle for less money and slowly maintain / modify it to how I want - but that's just me.
To be fair, a good amount of us specifically look for the earlier version of these trucks for the locker, simplistic nature of the interior, and the lack of ATRAC or VSV or the VVTI engines. Granted they are more primitive, but that's why I bought one.
 
To be fair, a good amount of us specifically look for the earlier version of these trucks for the locker, simplistic nature of the interior, and the lack of ATRAC or VSV or the VVTI engines. Granted they are more primitive, but that's why I bought one.
I can certainly sympathize with that, I go back and forth all the time. There's a 99 i'm watching very closely for all the reasons you mentioned above, however i'm still holding out for an 01-02. All valid points though.
 
To be fair, a good amount of us specifically look for the earlier version of these trucks for the locker, simplistic nature of the interior, and the lack of ATRAC or VSV or the VVTI engines. Granted they are more primitive, but that's why I bought one.

I can certainly sympathize with that, I go back and forth all the time. There's a 99 i'm watching very closely for all the reasons you mentioned above, however i'm still holding out for an 01-02. All valid points though.

oh absolutely. I like my 2000 for that reason, but I'd argue we are in the minority in regards to valuing these things over the whole market

were the interiors different 98-99 than they were 00-02?
 
oh absolutely. I like my 2000 for that reason, but I'd argue we are in the minority in regards to valuing these things over the whole market

were the interiors different 98-99 than they were 00-02?
I would be looking for the 01-02 just for the CRS (Child Restraint System) and...the one-touch auto windows. I know that sounds silly, but i have to badge in and out every day for work, and the auto window feature is nice. I spent a lot of time with crank windows though, and I have to admit, I kinda miss the simplicity of those days.
 
I would be looking for the 01-02 just for the CRS (Child Restraint System) and...the one-touch auto windows. I know that sounds silly, but i have to badge in and out every day for work, and the auto window feature is nice. I spent a lot of time with crank windows though, and I have to admit, I kinda miss the simplicity of those days.

My 99 has one-touch for the driver's window. But I bought it for the locker and the tires, basically.
 
My 99 has one-touch for the driver's window. But I bought it for the locker and the tires, basically.
I was always curious if you could flash the older models for that feature. With these things aging, and parts from Mr. T already at a premium, I REALLY like the idea of the 98-99 variant. Not trying to hijack what's left of this thread, but for me personally it's going to be a trail beater/Moab explorer so i'm not looking for a low mileage BAT example. I see far more 98-99 as well. Thanks for the insight KBDave!
 

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