noob drive shaft inspections? (1 Viewer)

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This is your fourth thread for basically the same thing? It would be a lot easier to keep it to one thread.

It looks like too much grease on the slip yoke to me. I grease it with one pump about every 5000 miles or so. There is a small ring of visible grease.

From another thread:

"For those that don’t know, It is EXTREMELY important that you not put too much grease into the slip yoke. Filling this area completely with grease prevents the driveshaft from shortening with normal suspension movement. This can quickly destroy your transfer case output shaft bearings and even diff pinion bearings."

Also, you may not have vibration now, but you need to put your caster plates on your truck. It's not just a vibration issue but also a steering issue.

From a 2009 post by Landtank:

"You'll be low on caster and in good driving conditions you probably won't notice it much but in bad cinditions like snow and slush it could get problematic. When these trucks get corrected properly the driving experience is totally different and the truck will be less tiresome especially on long drives. With all the solutions out there and the ease in which to install them I really don't understand why people are so reluctant to use them."
 
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This is your fourth thread for basically the same thing? It would be a lot easier to keep it to one thread.

It looks like too much grease on the slip yoke to me. I grease it with one pump about every 5000 miles or so. There is a small ring of visible grease.

From another thread:

"For those that don’t know, It is EXTREMELY important that you not put too much grease into the slip yoke. Filling this area completely with grease prevents the driveshaft from shortening with normal suspension movement. This can quickly destroy your transfer case output shaft bearings and even diff pinion bearings."

Also, you may not have vibration now, but you need to put your caster plates on your truck. It's not just a vibration issue but also a steering issue.

From a 2009 post by Landtank:

"You'll be low on caster and in good driving conditions you probably won't notice it much but in bad cinditions like snow and slush it could get problematic. When these trucks get corrected properly the driving experience is totally different and the truck will be less tiresome especially on long drives. With all the solutions out there and the ease in which to install them I really don't understand why people are so reluctant to use them."
thanks. sorry if it looks like dupe posting. it is all separate topics to me but i think it is hard to see if you already understand the topic.
i am narrowing down caster correction options. i just wanted to make sure i understood what i was doing before i do it.
on this thread is the length of the yoke too long? for some reason it seems like a lot of area is showing on both yokes. and i don’t /think/ i over greased them but if there is too much of the yoke shoeing is this an indication that they are over greased?
either way i guess i can pull the two zirk fittings with a deep socket and ride if for awhile?
THANKS
 
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I second what zapatius said regarding the threads. Start a build thread and just post everything there. Then you have one nice reference.

If you pull the zirk and nothing squirts out then it isn't over filled and you can immediately reinstall. If grease squirts out then that will relieve the pressure, if there is any any, and you can still immediately reinstall the zirks. I wouldn't suggest driving around with the zirks off; you will risk getting dirt in them.
 
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And expect some burning oil smell from the grease burning off the muffler. No need to start a thread about it.:rofl:

i think it is hard to see this stuff from the eyes of a noob when you become familiar with a topic. i see it all the time on moto forums where if you spend enough time and go far back enough the same guy harshing on someone for asking a dumb question themselves asked one on the very same topic eight or ten or twelve years ago.
anyways - at the risk of asking another noob idiot question and taking up more bits - do their weld up the driveshaft at the factory out of cast steel parts and some hollow thick wall tube? i’m not familiar with driveshafts but spike pointed this photo out and at first blush when i was looking at it it under the truck it does seem like these things are kind of hacked together.
but i guess they were all like this in that era?

20EE76D8-9A89-4162-AA5B-132477FC2AA9.jpeg
 

SteelHunterFJ80

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Jun 17, 2016
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Seattle Area
i think it is hard to see this stuff from the eyes of a noob when you become familiar with a topic. i see it all the time on moto forums where if you spend enough time and go far back enough the same guy harshing on someone for asking a dumb question themselves asked one on the very same topic eight or ten or twelve years ago.
anyways - at the risk of asking another noob idiot question and taking up more bits

View attachment 2459334
As a noob, I too echo these sentiments
 

baldilocks

Battle Ground, WA
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so i don’t need a new drive shaft or i do?
Both drivelines, especially the front, could be longer. I wouldn’t spend money on the rear but the front could be 3/4” or so longer if you want it to be text book correct for max spline engagement. If your not gong to wheel it hard, I wouldn’t be concerned. I looked hard and never did see a dent in the dust cover.
 

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