Non OEM sway bar links

[TenderWarrior]

I’m looking to replace my front sway bar link bushings and I found this Detroit axle made front sway bar links completed for $24.

Are these components worth the much extra money for OEM? Or would that brand or a similar non OEM brand suffice?

Amazon product

^ link to the parts

 

[hickuptruck]

Detroit axle is trash.

Yes sway bar links you can go non-oem no problem but really Detroit axle stuff is the lowest of low in quality.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

I put some Moog branded ones in the rear and they have held up well in the last 6 months with some off road abuse.

 

[87warrior]

I tried some aftermarket front swaybar links in my rig and they didn't last 4 months. Bushings were shot in no time and one of the studs broke off. Replaced with Toyota parts and the links haven't been a problem in +3 years. Your mileage may vary.

 

[Slashzero]

I’ve been using Moog links for almost a year. So far no issues. I don’t know anything about Detroit Axle.

 

[TenderWarrior]

Thanks for the replies. I think imma just go with Moog then since I can get full completed links and bushings for a total of $48 including shipping on rockauto. I’ve found OEM parts but just bushings and cushions though for $68 including shipping on Toyota parts deals. I feel Moog is good for this part plus get a full link too.

 

[Slashzero]

Thanks for the replies. I think imma just go with Moog then since I can get full completed links and bushings for a total of $48 including shipping on rockauto. I’ve found OEM parts but just bushings and cushions though for $68 including shipping on Toyota parts deals. I feel Moog is good for this part plus get a full link too.

Good luck!

 

[customcruiser]

I removed my sway bar b/c the bushings were gone and I wanted to eliminate clunks to see if I still had clunks when turning or hitting a bump.
No more clunks and it handles fine without.
I do have a brand new OME Med Kit on my truck.

My last DD was a BMW Coupe

 

[geanes]

Do you have a lift of any sort? Or are you stock? If you're lifted at all, get the extended links from Jason @ Trail Tailor.

 

[TenderWarrior]

Do you have a lift of any sort? Or are you stock? If you're lifted at all, get the extended links from Jason @ Trail Tailor.

I have 30mm spacers in the rear and torsion Bar’s raised. Probably about a 2” lift

 

[geanes]

I have 30mm spacers in the rear and torsion Bar’s raised. Probably about a 2” lift

Get the extended links then. I wouldn't look at any other options at 1.5" or greater over stock.

 

[TenderWarrior]

Get the extended links then. I wouldn't look at any other options at 1.5" or greater over stock.

Yea I was going to go with the MAF 80 series for the rear when I do them.

Oh wow I didn’t realize the trail tailor ones are $110. They look stout though

 

[TenderWarrior]

Man now I’m contemplating the extending sway bar links. Anyone else have advice if I should go that route?
I’m really not sure how much lift I have as the PO raises the front and put the spacers in the rear. It reads 21.5” in the front and 22” in the rear from center wheel to bottom of fender.
I want to do this right the first time but don’t want to spend unnecessary money either.

 

[Mark WV]

i Have the Moog end links on the front and they have been fine for about a year now - however I also installed the moog bushings on the front sway bar and they didn't last a month - split in the middle and pushed out both sides of the bracket - I went back to OEM and haven't had a problem. If I was to do it all over again, I would spend the extra $$$ for the OEM end links as well.

 

[TenderWarrior]

i Have the Moog end links on the front and they have been fine for about a year now - however I also installed the moog bushings on the front sway bar and they didn't last a month - split in the middle and pushed out both sides of the bracket - I went back to OEM and haven't had a problem. If I was to do it all over again, I would spend the extra $$$ for the OEM end links as well.

Thanks. After researching I believe having the 30mm spacers only really gives me a 1.25” lift so I don’t think I’m over 1.5” and I don’t see my need to go with extended links. I may just replace the bushings for now. Anyone with experience with the energy suspension bushings?

 

[geanes]

Thanks. After researching I believe having the 30mm spacers only really gives me a 1.25” lift so I don’t think I’m over 1.5” and I don’t see my need to go with extended links. I may just replace the bushings for now. Anyone with experience with the energy suspension bushings?

When I did my lift, I kept the OEM length links. I thought the truck rode ok. I added the extended links and immediately noticed a difference in the way the truck handled. The shorter length links seemed to be keeping the lifted suspension from utilizing the proper "droop" which is critical for handling. I was surprised how much a difference it actually made. My lift was a 2.5" lift. However, with all the weight I carry, it works out to being a 2" lift. If you're 1.25" lift, then I think you'd be fine with OEM length links. Any more than that, and I'd bite the bullet and get the longer ones.

 

[Asanka]

When I did my lift, I kept the OEM length links. I thought the truck rode ok. I added the extended links and immediately noticed a difference in the way the truck handled. The shorter length links seemed to be keeping the lifted suspension from utilizing the proper "droop" which is critical for handling. I was surprised how much a difference it actually made. My lift was a 2.5" lift. However, with all the weight I carry, it works out to being a 2" lift. If you're 1.25" lift, then I think you'd be fine with OEM length links. Any more than that, and I'd bite the bullet and get the longer ones.

I've had a different experience with extended SB links on front. I've installed 2 inch lift springs and adjusted front to compensate about 2 1/2 years ago. I've got about 1.5 inch lift on front. Then installed extended SB links all around from trail tailor. After an year and half front developed a clunk noise on slow speeds. Rears are doing great (shout to @TRAIL TAILOR). I immediately noticed extended front links are bit taller than it supposed to and therefore not vertically aligned. That's because the added length is pushing sway bar up by rotating it. Clunk came from the worn bushes on lowerend because of the incorrect angle.

So I put back my originals which were in great shape. Clunk went away, great! And another surprising thing happened. Truck developed a steering wobble over time of my ownership of 3 1/2 years. No leaks, so I thought steering rack bushings are the culprit (yet to confirm that's contributing or not). Very noticeable amount of the wobble went away after going back to OEM SB links!

2 inch lift on rear extends sway bar to diff mount 2 inches. Because it pushes the diff down or frame up by 2 inches. But front is a different story, since its IFS, 2 inch lift does not extend SB to LCA mount 2 inches. Probably about a inch is my guess.

 

[Moore80]

Man now I’m contemplating the extending sway bar links. Anyone else have advice if I should go that route?
I’m really not sure how much lift I have as the PO raises the front and put the spacers in the rear. It reads 21.5” in the front and 22” in the rear from center wheel to bottom of fender.
I want to do this right the first time but don’t want to spend unnecessary money either.

That's a typical 2.5 inch lift OME kit measurement.

 

[TenderWarrior]

That's a typical 2.5 inch lift OME kit measurement.

Yea I always thought it was closer to 2” of lift but it only has 30mm spacers with air bags in the stock springs and torsion raised. But I didn’t have it stock and not sure what the stock meansurements are.

 

[OEMGUY0720]

Anyone tried this? Looking for feedback on polyurethane sway bar end links. Thanks ya’ll.