- Thread starter
- #21
Well I got lucky. Man did it blow my thumb right off the plug hole. Scared the s*** out of me.
No Timing Marks on Harmonic Balancer - Help (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter JHeffner
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #22
Big thanks for the triple checking the distributor seated. It probably took me 10 times but I finally got it to seat. When it was seated with out the washer I still had up and down movement in the shaft that the weight pivot pins are attached to so I guess that means I haven’t bottomed out.Check, double check, and triple check that the distributor gear is lined up with the oil pump gear and the distributor is fully seated. Then watch for oil pressure when you fire it up... It should almost go without saying, but I don't want your next thread to be titled, "Where can I find a good used 2F because my motor seized due to lack of oil pressure?".
It's nothing to be too worried about, it doesn't happen often, you just don't want to be the lucky one.
So the distributor is finally in. I think I’m going to have a few beers and worry about the electrical end of it tomorrow.
For the record I know very little about wiring so this should be fun...
- Thread starter
- #23
I am going to jump in here... I am dealing with a similar issue that I think we can all build on here.
I am rebuilding motor after pulling cam shaft out. Troll hole dissy. Cam shaft was installed with flywheel at TDC line, matched up with crank shaft gear. I set all my valves cold. I have fuel pressure, not full amount but enough to keep some in the carb.
-Flywheel is at TDC 7degree BB
-Distributor slot is turned to 12oClock (Bolt above on side cover)
-Drop it in, Rotor shifts to the left a tad
-Put cap on and rotor is at #1
When I try to start the truck it spits up through the carb. What am I missing here?
I am rebuilding motor after pulling cam shaft out. Troll hole dissy. Cam shaft was installed with flywheel at TDC line, matched up with crank shaft gear. I set all my valves cold. I have fuel pressure, not full amount but enough to keep some in the carb.
-Flywheel is at TDC 7degree BB
-Distributor slot is turned to 12oClock (Bolt above on side cover)
-Drop it in, Rotor shifts to the left a tad
-Put cap on and rotor is at #1
When I try to start the truck it spits up through the carb. What am I missing here?
Your second picture appears to show it fully seated. I didn’t need the washer.
I don’t understand your, “When it was seated with out the washer I still had up and down movement in the shaft” comment... you have the washer in place.
I can’t see a holddown clamp... you do have one, right?
Are your plug wires in the proper firing order? 1,5,3,6,2,4
Valve timing isnt 180 deg out by any chance?
Just flipped my plug wires 180 deg on the distributor cap. Fires right up.
Does that mean I haven't been on the compression stroke?
Does that mean I haven't been on the compression stroke?
yep
- Thread starter
- #32
It’s this part of the instructions. You have to seat it without the washer against the manifold and then you have to take the rotor off (remove the nylon nuts) and you pull up and down on the shaft to make sure it hasn’t bottomed out on the oil pump. That’s just as bad as not seating it in oil pump I guess.
Was a bit of gong show but it all worked out in the end.
What did everyone else do with the rest of the wires that are attached to the coil? Should I just leave them there? I think I’m going to get power from the big B/Y wire to the 30a relay. No issues with that hey?
Also a couple posts back I was asking about which wire is for my tach. Does anyone know? The old one going to the dizzy or the one that goes to the coil?
Again thanks everyone for the help!! You guys are the best.
I originally installed my own tach... triggered by the coil. With DUI, I simply plugged that wire into the DUI Tach port.
The big BY wire has a Yazaki Resistor spliced into it, on my ‘78... it was a Toyota replacement for the ballast resistor. If your big BY wire carries full battery+, you could send it to relay-30/51. I needed an unresisted power source and preferred new wire.
Sounds like you have it correctly seated, but I couldn’t see a holddown in your pictures...
Edit: I taped off the unused coil wires and labeled them.
The big BY wire has a Yazaki Resistor spliced into it, on my ‘78... it was a Toyota replacement for the ballast resistor. If your big BY wire carries full battery+, you could send it to relay-30/51. I needed an unresisted power source and preferred new wire.
Sounds like you have it correctly seated, but I couldn’t see a holddown in your pictures...
Edit: I taped off the unused coil wires and labeled them.
Thought I'd mention this since you had the rotor off. I can't find the thread but it had a discussion about the centrifugal advance weights getting lifted up off where they're supposed to ride. The posts they ride on have a notch for e-clips but Performance Distributors no longer puts them on. In the thread that I can't find, the poster said someone at Performance told him they are not needed. When I opened mind to check, one of the weights was indeed lifted. I didn't know if it lifted by itself or if I accidently lifeted it while manually moving them just to see how they worked. I reset it, put it back together and ran it till I got an e-clip kit. I couldn't find a clip to fit so I gave up on it since the weights hadn't moved in the meantime. I recently checked again and they are staying put.
I mention this as you too may have fiddled with the weights like me or even accidently lifted them. Wouldn't hurt to check.
I mention this as you too may have fiddled with the weights like me or even accidently lifted them. Wouldn't hurt to check.
