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Hey guys. I adjusted my valves on my non USA Fj60 this morning and now she won't start. I have done a valve adjustment before and I used the Haynes manual as a guide, that's why I'm completely stumped as to why she won't start now. Any help would be appreciated.
 
PCV hose hooked up correctly?
If you only did minor adjustments, it wouldn’t affect starting and running after start.
 
Perhaps something was knocked ajar while doing the valves?
Does it just turn over and over with no fire? Make sure the cables on battery are snug and that the wire from coil to distributor is also snug, sparkplug wires too.
 
Were any of the valves adjusted a lot? They never need much.
Is it possible that exhaust and intake valve adjustment got mixed up? Easy enough to do.

Personally I always checked them while the engine was idling, so I could hear them. Then turn off engine, adjust the ones that needed it, start the engine then check again. Do that several times until they were all good. Engine stays hot. Can hear and feel when a gap is too big or too tight.
 
She just turns and backfires. It was the loudest backfires I have ever heard from this car.
Perhaps something was knocked ajar while doing the valves?
Does it just turn over and over with no fire? Make sure the cables on battery are snug and that the wire from coil to distributor is also snug, sparkplug wires too.
 
Were any of the valves adjusted a lot? They never need much.
Is it possible that exhaust and intake valve adjustment got mixed up? Easy enough to do.

Personally I always checked them while the engine was idling, so I could hear them. Then turn off engine, adjust the ones that needed it, start the engine then check again. Do that several times until they were all good. Engine stays hot. Can hear and feel when a gap is too big or too tight.
No, none of them were adjusted a lot. I adjusted them each until I felt a slight drag on the feeler gauge
 
did you remove spark plugs? Did you get the wires back onto the correct plugs? I replaced my spark plugs this week, and even though the wires are cut to length AND numbered, I still got two switched :confused:

Since you are getting "back fire" you must have some spark and some fuel. you could be flooded, or as above, the ignition sequence is wrong. Tell us more what you did and about your back fire? Is the back fire up through the carburetor or out the muffler?
 
did you remove spark plugs? Did you get the wires back onto the correct plugs? I replaced my spark plugs this week, and even though the wires are cut to length AND numbered, I still got two switched :confused:

Since you are getting "back fire" you must have some spark and some fuel. you could be flooded, or as above, the ignition sequence is wrong. Tell us more what you did and about your back fire? Is the back fire up through the carburetor or out the muffler?
I removed my bougiecords so that they would be out of my way and when I plugged them back in, I triple checked to make sure I didn't switch any, so that is in order. The backfire seems to be alternating between my exhaust and my carb.
 
Are you sure the crank wasn’t 180 degrees off? My uncle did that on his mustang back in the 70’s and thought he ruined the car. I bet your exhaust is sucking fresh fuel from the cylinder before it’s igniting because the valves aren’t closing all the way.

I’d start over by making sure you have the crank in the correct place and then adjust everything according to Toyota standards. There’s a chart somewhere on mud that shows the hot and cold clearances for adjusting valves. Hot is best as that’s how Toyota suggests it, but if you’re rebuilding the engine and have to get the valves in the ball park cold works well. I’ve done it cold and hot and both ways work. Cold is less stressful but I always lean towards the loose side if I’m doing it cold. Metal expands when it’s hot and you could easily put it out of spec if it’s too tight when it’s cold. Either way, loose valves are better than tight valves.
 
Are you sure the crank wasn’t 180 degrees off? My uncle did that on his mustang back in the 70’s and thought he ruined the car. I bet your exhaust is sucking fresh fuel from the cylinder before it’s igniting because the valves aren’t closing all the way.

I’d start over by making sure you have the crank in the correct place and then adjust everything according to Toyota standards. There’s a chart somewhere on mud that shows the hot and cold clearances for adjusting valves. Hot is best as that’s how Toyota suggests it, but if you’re rebuilding the engine and have to get the valves in the ball park cold works well. I’ve done it cold and hot and both ways work. Cold is less stressful but I always lean towards the loose side if I’m doing it cold. Metal expands when it’s hot and you could easily put it out of spec if it’s too tight when it’s cold. Either way, loose valves are better than tight valves.
Well I lined the pointer up with the TDC line on the flywheel exactly and I had the rotor on my dizzy lined up with the number one spark plug and then I adjusted the first half of the valves. Then I over rotated for the second half of the valves but corrected my mistake before I started adjusting. Could that have caused an issue? Is there any chance you could post the cold adjustment chart on here?
 
Well I lined the pointer up with the TDC line on the flywheel exactly and I had the rotor on my dizzy lined up with the number one spark plug and then I adjusted the first half of the valves. Then I over rotated for the second half of the valves but corrected my mistake before I started adjusting. Could that have caused an issue? Is there any chance you could post the cold adjustment chart on here?

For cold adjustment just use the same values for warm. If resetting the valves works then warm up the engine and recheck the clearances.
 
For cold adjustment just use the same values for warm. If resetting the valves works then warm up the engine and recheck the clearances.
Thanks Godwin. I guess I'll have to do a cold adjustment tomorrow again. A follow up question though. Is it normal for certain pushrods to be able to spin freely? I noticed a pushrod that would clink and spin when I tapped it with my finger when i checked my valves this morning.
 
Thanks Godwin. I guess I'll have to do a cold adjustment tomorrow again. A follow up question though. Is it normal for certain pushrods to be able to spin freely? I noticed a pushrod that would clink and spin when I tapped it with my finger when i checked my valves this morning.

Yes, when there is the slight gap between the tip of the valve and rocker arm there is no pressure on the push rod and it can spin freely.
 
Well I lined the pointer up with the TDC line on the flywheel exactly and I had the rotor on my dizzy lined up with the number one spark plug and then I adjusted the first half of the valves. Then I over rotated for the second half of the valves but corrected my mistake before I started adjusting. Could that have caused an issue? Is there any chance you could post the cold adjustment chart on here?
1652999113366.jpeg

I bet you got yourself confused when you over rotated. It happens to the best of us. Try it again from square one tomorrow.

FJ60 valve adjustment - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fj60-valve-adjustment.489587/

I got the chart from this thread. Read Jim’s notes on valve timing. This thread helped me tremendously when I was learning to adjust valves.
 

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