I read through most of the “No Start”, “Key Immobilizer”, “Fuel Pump”, and “EFI Relay” threads but have reluctantly started a new thread (sorry) because most of the issues indicate the security light on the center console as still blinking while ignition is ON (and mine is off as is expected).
I am now pretty deep into this issue and need some help either digging a deeper hole or digging my way back out to where I started.
So now for the background...Sorry, I wish I had a way to make it more interesting…but here it goes:
2000 LC with 305K miles – owned since 2006 @ 65K miles
Mostly dealer maintained until 200K+
Down to 1 Master Key, a little loose…pretty worn
A few months ago, “she” began not wanting to start - on occasion. Must be a “she” because she is not communicating and acting like I should already know what’s wrong with her!
At some point in the last few months, the VSC/Traction Control light started coming on occasionally. (Not sure this has anything to do with my current problem)
Then a couple months ago, she turned over, but wouldn’t start. A day later, she started and was fine for a couple days. Then she did the same thing and wore down the battery trying to start. After charging the battery, she started and was fine.
Then a few weeks ago, she wouldn’t start (same thing…turned over but wouldn’t start). I first considered buying new key because I read that many times the older keys were an issue. However, I was reluctant to buy an aftermarket key and didn’t have a DNA sample to provide the local Toyota dealer when I dropped by to get a key (they even had me and the vehicle in their system).
Instead of a follow up trip to the dealer for a key, I thought I better get a diagnosis before spending money on a key, so I finally resorted to having her towed to my local independent trusted mechanic. He/they diagnosed as a Key Immobilizer issue and referred me to the dealer (and towed her there as a courtesy).
The dealer sort of diagnosed it…well charged for a diagnosis and called it a “diagnosis” …but said “the fuel pump is bad so we are going to start with a Complete Fuel Pump at $1,075”. Key word “start”! When I went by to discuss they were quite defensive and when I asked if it was throwing any codes, they lied about the lack of codes. They said they checked for codes and found nothing but when I called them out on that(I was aware of an emissions code a previous dealer had identified), they finally admitted that they didn’t check for codes and that “the codes don’t matter”.
I later confirmed with the independent mechanic that he checked the codes and said it was “throwing a code for a Key Immobilizer” and that would explain why the fuel pump wasn’t working.
As you can imagine, I lost all confidence in the dealer and decided to have her towed back home. This is when I found the ih8mud community and not only read everything I could about this issue but also started tearing into the LC myself. Y’all are incredible! – I have re-fallen in love with my LC and have newfound conviction to reach 500K miles! I also gained the confidence (rightly or wrongly so) to dig in and start tearing apart the truck!
So here is what I have done:
Replaced battery
Replaced Oil Cap (seal was leaking)
Replaced Fuel Cap (just because long over due)
Replaced Fuel Filter (gas was present in the line)
Pulled out the seats to access the Fuel Pump. Then engaged the ignition ON position to hear the fuel pump and could hear it running.
Visually checked the fuses in the Fuse Box (engine compartment) and found the box and the fuses to be in good condition (visually).
Removed the Fuel Pump and the EFI Relay (from the engine compartment Fuse Box). Took both to my local auto parts store. We hooked power up to the fuel pump and it ran. They tested the EFI and it clicked – although we did not test to specifications (continuity).
Bought a new Fuel Pump. Plugged in to original assembly and connected. However, it didn’t turn on when Ignition ON or trying to crank. After testing the new fuel pump by connecting to battery, it ran, so returned the new Fuel Pump.
Borrowed a pressure gauge and ohm meter from Autozone. Tested contact at the fuel pump connection and showed 8-9 Volts. Main Battery tested at 12+ Volts.
I bought a Bosch Code Reader (Bluetooth an downloaded the app) and it didn’t seem to have the necessary functionality and wasn’t throwing any codes. I borrowed a code reader from Autozone and only showed one code: C1207 (Traction Control/Safety Neutral Switch) However, I have not erased and rescanned…nor is the VSC light coming back on the dash at this time.
Read most of the threads on ih8mud and every google video related to fuel pumps, EFI Relays, “No Starts”, and Key Immobilizers.
Bought a new key from Toyota. Programmed myself using video from YouTube. It seems to be working as the alarm light goes off as expected and seemingly almost started with left over gas in the engine.
Continued reading…thought maybe I have a bad “Fuel Pump Relay”. Tried to find the Fuel Pump Relay location…even took apart the Key Control unit looking for it. O’Reilly’s found and sold me a “Fuel Pump” Relay which has 5 pins…but still couldn’t find it in the engine compartment, near the driver’s side kick panel/fuse box, in the passenger side kick pane (near the computer), or in rear quarter-panel near the Fuel Pump Control unit.
I hijacked the “where is the fuel pump relay” thread and the 2000 model does not appear to have a separate relay. Even if there is one, could it be bad if I am getting power to the unit?
*Thank you @abuck99 and @planomateo for sending me wiring diagrams and testing procedures from the FSM!
So now I am stuck and need some guidance on what to do next but have some questions to better understand the big picture of how the truck functions:
What do “Relays” do? Do they merely relay power or do they relay the amount of power the Computer or Control Unit indicates?
My assumption (which must be wrong) is that since I have power to the connector at the fuel pump itself, then the fuel pump should work.
Should I still focus on the Relay(s) and/or Fuse Box…or should I move on to the connections at either the Fuel Pump Control Unit or Computer(ECU?)?
Should I check continuity at every connection? What is the purpose of this? If I am able to confirm that I am getting power from a source, then why check continuity?
Sorry for the newbie questions but looking forward to this new enlightenment once I make it through this chasm! I guess in general I want to better understand the “why” not just the “what”. For example: What is a Relay and what purpose does it serve (why)? Grateful for any help!
I am now pretty deep into this issue and need some help either digging a deeper hole or digging my way back out to where I started.
So now for the background...Sorry, I wish I had a way to make it more interesting…but here it goes:
2000 LC with 305K miles – owned since 2006 @ 65K miles
Mostly dealer maintained until 200K+
Down to 1 Master Key, a little loose…pretty worn
A few months ago, “she” began not wanting to start - on occasion. Must be a “she” because she is not communicating and acting like I should already know what’s wrong with her!
At some point in the last few months, the VSC/Traction Control light started coming on occasionally. (Not sure this has anything to do with my current problem)
Then a couple months ago, she turned over, but wouldn’t start. A day later, she started and was fine for a couple days. Then she did the same thing and wore down the battery trying to start. After charging the battery, she started and was fine.
Then a few weeks ago, she wouldn’t start (same thing…turned over but wouldn’t start). I first considered buying new key because I read that many times the older keys were an issue. However, I was reluctant to buy an aftermarket key and didn’t have a DNA sample to provide the local Toyota dealer when I dropped by to get a key (they even had me and the vehicle in their system).
Instead of a follow up trip to the dealer for a key, I thought I better get a diagnosis before spending money on a key, so I finally resorted to having her towed to my local independent trusted mechanic. He/they diagnosed as a Key Immobilizer issue and referred me to the dealer (and towed her there as a courtesy).
The dealer sort of diagnosed it…well charged for a diagnosis and called it a “diagnosis” …but said “the fuel pump is bad so we are going to start with a Complete Fuel Pump at $1,075”. Key word “start”! When I went by to discuss they were quite defensive and when I asked if it was throwing any codes, they lied about the lack of codes. They said they checked for codes and found nothing but when I called them out on that(I was aware of an emissions code a previous dealer had identified), they finally admitted that they didn’t check for codes and that “the codes don’t matter”.
I later confirmed with the independent mechanic that he checked the codes and said it was “throwing a code for a Key Immobilizer” and that would explain why the fuel pump wasn’t working.
As you can imagine, I lost all confidence in the dealer and decided to have her towed back home. This is when I found the ih8mud community and not only read everything I could about this issue but also started tearing into the LC myself. Y’all are incredible! – I have re-fallen in love with my LC and have newfound conviction to reach 500K miles! I also gained the confidence (rightly or wrongly so) to dig in and start tearing apart the truck!
So here is what I have done:
Replaced battery
Replaced Oil Cap (seal was leaking)
Replaced Fuel Cap (just because long over due)
Replaced Fuel Filter (gas was present in the line)
Pulled out the seats to access the Fuel Pump. Then engaged the ignition ON position to hear the fuel pump and could hear it running.
Visually checked the fuses in the Fuse Box (engine compartment) and found the box and the fuses to be in good condition (visually).
Removed the Fuel Pump and the EFI Relay (from the engine compartment Fuse Box). Took both to my local auto parts store. We hooked power up to the fuel pump and it ran. They tested the EFI and it clicked – although we did not test to specifications (continuity).
Bought a new Fuel Pump. Plugged in to original assembly and connected. However, it didn’t turn on when Ignition ON or trying to crank. After testing the new fuel pump by connecting to battery, it ran, so returned the new Fuel Pump.
Borrowed a pressure gauge and ohm meter from Autozone. Tested contact at the fuel pump connection and showed 8-9 Volts. Main Battery tested at 12+ Volts.
I bought a Bosch Code Reader (Bluetooth an downloaded the app) and it didn’t seem to have the necessary functionality and wasn’t throwing any codes. I borrowed a code reader from Autozone and only showed one code: C1207 (Traction Control/Safety Neutral Switch) However, I have not erased and rescanned…nor is the VSC light coming back on the dash at this time.
Read most of the threads on ih8mud and every google video related to fuel pumps, EFI Relays, “No Starts”, and Key Immobilizers.
Bought a new key from Toyota. Programmed myself using video from YouTube. It seems to be working as the alarm light goes off as expected and seemingly almost started with left over gas in the engine.
Continued reading…thought maybe I have a bad “Fuel Pump Relay”. Tried to find the Fuel Pump Relay location…even took apart the Key Control unit looking for it. O’Reilly’s found and sold me a “Fuel Pump” Relay which has 5 pins…but still couldn’t find it in the engine compartment, near the driver’s side kick panel/fuse box, in the passenger side kick pane (near the computer), or in rear quarter-panel near the Fuel Pump Control unit.
I hijacked the “where is the fuel pump relay” thread and the 2000 model does not appear to have a separate relay. Even if there is one, could it be bad if I am getting power to the unit?
*Thank you @abuck99 and @planomateo for sending me wiring diagrams and testing procedures from the FSM!
So now I am stuck and need some guidance on what to do next but have some questions to better understand the big picture of how the truck functions:
What do “Relays” do? Do they merely relay power or do they relay the amount of power the Computer or Control Unit indicates?
My assumption (which must be wrong) is that since I have power to the connector at the fuel pump itself, then the fuel pump should work.
Should I still focus on the Relay(s) and/or Fuse Box…or should I move on to the connections at either the Fuel Pump Control Unit or Computer(ECU?)?
Should I check continuity at every connection? What is the purpose of this? If I am able to confirm that I am getting power from a source, then why check continuity?
Sorry for the newbie questions but looking forward to this new enlightenment once I make it through this chasm! I guess in general I want to better understand the “why” not just the “what”. For example: What is a Relay and what purpose does it serve (why)? Grateful for any help!
