No start after Decarb and City Racer Carb install. Carb won't prime, runs if fuel poured into Carb

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I'm at a loss here and could use a bit of assistance. Backstory.... I've been plugging away at replacing the carb and removing all the unnecessary emission components for a couple days. Now can't seem to get the new carb to take a prime. I am starting to think it might actually be an issue with the carb itself. The truck starts and runs if I fill the carb with fuel, also I'm getting fuel out of the line if I disconnect it, run a hose into a bucket and crank the engine. I don't think the decarb itself is responsible for the issue but details of the decarb as follows...

Drivers VSV:
Port Y: Carb insulator with a T for Fuel cut solenoid vacuum
Port X: Intake
Port Z: Evap Purge
Port S: BVSV B

Pass VSV:
Port Y: Intake
Port X: Loops to Dist vent
Port Z: Dist vent
port S: Gas filter

The vacuum port in the carb itself is going to the Vacuum advance on the distributor.

HAC is removed because I'm at sea level and don't go above 4k feet.

Fuel cut solenoid connector was swapped over to the City Racer solenoid, Green wire harness side is going to the solenoid.

@FJ40Jim Air pump delete pulley, plugs, EGR plug all installed.

Swapped the filter housing over to a 3F carb hat with Japanese/FJ62 air filter box.

Initially I suspected a weak fuel pump with was able to move liquid but not string enough to push air and prime the carb. So I picked up a new one from @ToyotaMatt and replaced the Fuel pump, spacer, gaskets and fuel filter with OEM parts, also replaced the rubber fuel hoses with new hose. no change. Because the truck starts and runs no issue when I manually fill the carb through the sight glass, or pour fuel directly into the carb, I'm thinking possibly a restriction inside the carb itself not allowing it to fill?

Am I missing something here? I know it's got to be something totally stupid, this is a mechanical system. Also, If you see something I messed up please, speak up.


Edit: in these photos the old fuel cut solenoid is installed in the new carb. I removed it from the OEM, cleaned it, and tested it before installing it into the City Racer. I've since removed it and reinstalled the 1 wire one that came with it.

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That’s a real Snappy 90980-10092-60 Female Splash Proof Green OEM 2 connector plugging in your 2 wire FcS …

Is it original or nos one u installed ?
It’s the original 2 wire. I cleaned and tested it to verify it worked properly then swapped it over to the other carb. I removed it though, swapped the connector, and installed the 1 wire that the carb came with. I was throwing poo at the wall to see what would stick, thinking mayyyybe it could be the issue.
 
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If hammertime doesn't work , temporarily raising the fuel pressure should clear it . Blocking the fuel return line temporarily for example.

If it starts, turn it straight off or fuel will go everywhere.
 
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Spike Strip

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Looking at the site glass on the carb, after cranking, is there fuel in the float bowl (should be exactly half way (ish).
 
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Looking at the site glass on the carb, after cranking, is there fuel in the float bowl (should be exactly half way (ish).
No. Float bowl isn’t filling. I can remove the sight glass, put fuel in the bowl manually, and the truck starts with that fuel. I am also getting fuel out of the line going into the carb, when I disconnect from the carb, and drain into a bucket while cranking.
 

Spike Strip

Let's Go Brandon !
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This seems to have happened with a few of the City Racer carbs; He has posted about it. Some overzealous use of sealing goop can cause the needle/seat to stick.

If rapidly tapping the corner of the carb, while having someone crank the engine, does not free the needle, you'll most likely have to pull off the air horn and clean out the crap.

(and you don't have to remove the site glass to fill the bowl, you can pour through the brass vent over each venturi)

City Racer carb:

 
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Update: Hammertime fixed it. Had the G/F crank while I gently tapped and I quickly saw fuel shoot into the bowl via the sight glass. I knew it had to be something stupid.

Had a slight hiccup with the fuel cutoff switch, took care of that. Lean dropped it into a comfy 650sih RPM at idle. Currently seeing 18In of Vac at idle.

Plan is to pull the dizzy tomorrow and swap it out with a recurved one. Install new plugs, replace the side cover gasket then get a nice timing dialed in. Once that's all set I'll pull the valve cover and make sure the valves are properly adjusted.
 

ToyotaMatt

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Update: Hammertime fixed it. Had the G/F crank while I gently tapped and I quickly saw fuel shoot into the bowl via the sight glass. I knew it had to be something stupid.

Had a slight hiccup with the fuel cutoff switch, took care of that. Lean dropped it into a comfy 650sih RPM at idle. Currently seeing 18In of Vac at idle.

Plan is to pull the dizzy tomorrow and swap it out with a recurved one. Install new plugs, replace the side cover gasket then get a nice timing dialed in. Once that's all set I'll pull the valve cover and make sure the valves are properly adjusted.


any updates ?
 
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any updates ?

Been traveling for the better part of the last month. Missed my deadline to take the truck on a trip soooo I dove in head first. Ordered any hoses, lines that weren't obsolete from Toyota. Took all the painted parts in the bay out to refinish. Going to pull everything on the truck that needs to be plated and send it off with the bolts to be refinished. Basically opened a can of worms. I just started working on it again yesterday. I'll post pics soon.
 

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