No spark after running great today (1 Viewer)

Joined
Nov 16, 2020
Messages
53
Location
Austin, Texas
First run at trying to get my fj62 back in shape. I replaced plugs, wires, distributor, rotor, air filter and PCV valve and grommet. Started great and ran beautiful. Drove to fill up and check engine light came on after a few miles but was running great. Filled up and when I started it up, no check engine light. 1/2 way home it came on again but was still running fine. I had planned to pull the codes when I got home so no problem. I followed the directions to get the output of diagnosis codes as follows:

1) Battery over 11 v
2) valve fully closed. I supposed that meant to not have my foot on the gas peddle and did check to make sure the throttle was at the stop screw.
3) transmission in neutral
4) no accessories on
5) vehicle at operating temperature

I used the service wire incorrectly at first and jumped between the terminal just to the right of TE1 and E1 and turned the key to the on position. The check engine light stays on the whole time. I realized my mistake and went to TE1 and E1. Check engine light continues to burn steadily with no blinking.

I went over the above criteria to make sure I had all the things done correctly as noted above. I checked the throttle position sensor and followed the directions placing a gauge on the throttle and verifying all resistances were within normal limits on the TPS. THe check engine light continues to burn steady when attempting to get the codes off. When I got home the entire engine bay smelled strongly of gas but I could not find any leaking. I started it up to see if I had just messed up something messing with the throttle all that time and it ran fine for several minutes. It then suddenly stalled and now I have no spark and it won’t start.
I will start at the battery tomorrow and see if I can trace this latest problem from the battery thru the fuses and on to the coil etc..

My main question is how can I get the computer to spit out the codes?! My check terminal is a mess. See attached image. I appreciate any insight. Not a great start to my project.....

D63AD6B7-262D-48C4-9152-7958E56F96FB.jpeg
 
Joined
Nov 16, 2020
Messages
53
Location
Austin, Texas
Did the coil resistance test and it looks like the resistance is out of proper thresholds per the FSM. surprised that it crapped out right after doing all the other stuff. coincidence? Do I need to get the igniter too or can i just get an aftermarket coil? thanks.
 
Joined
Nov 16, 2020
Messages
53
Location
Austin, Texas
All new along with distrib, rotor, plugs and air filter and ran great 10 minutes prior. Did not get to try the codes again today but as in the original (long winded) post, the check engine light stayed lit when I inserted the jumper. Maybe I didn’t get a good connection at the check ports. I did clean them with electrical cleaner and toothpick today so will try tomorrow. Thanks for your response. I have reviewed probably 50 of the no spark threads today and have noted your good input over the years. D
 
Joined
Nov 16, 2020
Messages
53
Location
Austin, Texas
Are you saying just get a local coil or buy the Toyota coil and igniter online? Our local dealership has no parts for this rig and no interest in getting them for me! Ordered the tune up Toyota stuff from spring hill in Alabama and took a week to get it all.
 

NeverGiveUpYota

Dare me.
SILVER Star
Joined
Mar 28, 2011
Messages
6,986
Location
East Hampton, CT
Battery over 11. So is that a guess? Off the shelf you might get 12.8 unless I’m mistaken. If it’s really that low, charge it or get a new one.
 
Joined
Oct 30, 2007
Messages
9,742
Location
Plano texas
If your testing parts as per the manual and they test bad replace them .All I’m saying is don’t throw away good parts.Are all your fuseable links at the battery hooked up well with no corrosion and no frayed wires? Mike
 

FJ40Jim

The Cruiser Whisperer
SILVER Star
Joined
Sep 26, 2003
Messages
11,034
Location
Lancaster, Ohio, USA
Coils fail by either shorting out ( zero ohms) or breaking a winding (open circuit,)
If the spec is 2.5 ohms and it's showing 2.3ohm, that is not the problem.

Tell us more about the new distributor.
 
Joined
Nov 16, 2020
Messages
53
Location
Austin, Texas
If your testing parts as per the manual and they test bad replace them .All I’m saying is don’t throw away good parts.Are all your fuseable links at the battery hooked up well with no corrosion and no frayed wires? Mike
There is a bit of fraying but I kept the tester on and moved them all over the place and never lost continuity to the coil positive and grounds seemed good. the fuse with the
Battery over 11. So is that a guess? Off the shelf you might get 12.8 unless I’m mistaken. If it’s really that low, charge it or get a new one.
I was quoting the FSM on each of those criteria to enable the codes to be generated. I have 12.4.
i'll get a new coil tomorrow. wow they are proud of the igniter so didn't get that.
 
Joined
Nov 16, 2020
Messages
53
Location
Austin, Texas
Coils fail by either shorting out ( zero ohms) or breaking a winding (open circuit,)
If the spec is 2.5 ohms and it's showing 2.3ohm, that is not the problem.

Tell us more about the new distributor.
It was running pretty nice so I just replaced the cap and rotor. After I did all of this it ran very nice with no cutting out that I could hear. Check engine light came on after 4-5 minutes but was still running fine and then after attempting to obtain the codes, it died and no more spark on spark test or at coil main wire.
 
Joined
Nov 16, 2020
Messages
53
Location
Austin, Texas
It was running pretty nice so I just replaced the cap and rotor. After I did all of this it ran very nice with no cutting out that I could hear. Check engine light came on after 4-5 minutes but was still running fine and then after attempting to obtain the codes, it died and no more spark on spark test or at coil main wire.
the coil has 2 ohms at primary coil (.52-.64 is nl) and secondary coil has 9.3 (11.5 -15.5 is normal).
 
Joined
Nov 16, 2020
Messages
53
Location
Austin, Texas
Coils fail by either shorting out ( zero ohms) or breaking a winding (open circuit,)
If the spec is 2.5 ohms and it's showing 2.3ohm, that is not the problem.

Tell us more about the new distributor.
sorry I was not clear about the distributer. AND i REALLY APPRECIATE THE FEEDBACK!
 
Joined
Nov 16, 2020
Messages
53
Location
Austin, Texas
Is it a Toyota distributor ? I’m wondering if you tried to test for codes with all that crud in the connector, that you blew a fuse? Test all fuses. Mike
I just did the cap and rotor. I need to do a better job of checking the fusible links and I have checked all at the dash. Thx Mike
 

NookShneer

GOLD Star
Joined
Aug 3, 2010
Messages
2,160
Location
North of Seattle, WA
I just ran into this on my 60. Started and ran great all day. Parked it and went to move it in the evening. And it would crank and not fire.

Ended up swapping the coil with another used used one and it fired right up. Didn’t get a read on the coil to compare but might see if that would help out.
 
Joined
Nov 16, 2020
Messages
53
Location
Austin, Texas
Got the new coil on and it would not crank. Engine turns but no firing. I left all the plugs in but removed the #5 plug wire and put a spark plug on it and grounded the tip to the body and briefly SPARK! it started to fire up but after just a few sparks, no more spark. That reassured me that this doesn’t appear to be the EFI system cutting the spark and fuel but rather a short somewhere. i checked Every wire at the fusible links and though there is some fraying, I could not find a variation in voltage with wiggling the leads. I guess I will start at the battery and replace all of the cables and usable links. DOES ANYONE HAVE A GOOD SOURCE FOR CABLE SETS PREMADE? I am working through the vendor section starting in Texas and moving out from here. Thx. So hoping this is not the igniter. D
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Top Bottom