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- #21
Dtc for nox sensor bank 2. It is snapped off
had reverse for about 4 feet then lost it
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- Thread starter ranchmechanic
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Dtc for nox sensor bank 2. It is snapped off
had reverse for about 4 feet then lost it
Happened on an old car of mine where the adjustments on the linkage were all wonky/bent out of shape. Have one person in the truck with it running on the lift while you are underneath it. You manually place it in gear directly on the trans. If it goes into gear without the linkage, then you know that the linkage is all messed up. That is how we found out that the linkage in our old Dodge got bent and the previous owner adjusted it with brute force with total disregard to what should have been done.
Sounds suspiciously like a linkage problem or something internal being right on the cusp of engagement.
As suggested above, perhaps manually moving the linkage (engine runnning, ALL appropriate safety measures adhered to) would reveal a mechanical reason for it.
As suggested above, perhaps manually moving the linkage (engine runnning, ALL appropriate safety measures adhered to) would reveal a mechanical reason for it.
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- #24
Had someone work the brakes and manually shifted through every detent offered from under the car while running. No change. Everything is the same reverse lights up slight idle increase no movement
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- #25
I’m positive I ruled the linkage out
What are the symptoms in an 80 when the viscous coupler craps out? I only put this out because my 80 had a bit of a clunk when going into reverse and, after I sold it, the VC went out and the new owner removed the VC and rolled on without it.
VC's tend to fail in the locked position. But regardless.....being a function of the Transfer Case (driven by the transmission) is downstream of any transmission problems. OP said he had movement in the forward gears.
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- #28
Tomorrow I’m going to drop the pan again and see if I can see anything out of place I wonder if a solenoid is out of wack or the line pressure came out of adjustment when the kickdown cable got locked over detent.
Is there anything I should look for anyone else can think of while it’s open?
Is there anything I should look for anyone else can think of while it’s open?
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- #29
If the trans is in neutral should the vehicle roll freely? This will not roll unless the t case is in neutral is that normal?
Yes, should move with trans in Neutral BUT with some resistance since that vehicle probably has a T-case with a Viscous Coupler.
Not much of a transmission expert here. But I do have an idea. Try increasing the line pressure to the max setting. I did this on my 96 about a month ago and it really woke up the truck. Almost feels like a modern automatic. I'm thinking maybe if the pressure is higher then you might get a bit of movement in reverse; if that happens then you probably have a hydraulic issue. A fluid flush or drain and refill might help? Otherwise, I would think it's mechanical (maybe a bad clutch pack).
forum.ih8mud.com
Improving Transmission Shifting
IMHO the auto trans is tuned more on the smooth shift side than I prefer. As lift, weight, larger tires, etc, have been added, it has moved more towards a slip shift end of performance.:frown: So, did a bunch of reading, talked to a trans tech buddy and have tried a few tweaks with good results...
forum.ih8mud.com
60wag
SILVER Star
The "kickdown" cable actually controls the system pressure on this transmission. The repair done to this cable may have dropped the pressure?
^^^^^^
Correct and this would be the first thing you would want to look at. Next would be to check the actual line pressure via the test port on the right side of the trans. Hook up a pressure gauge and check the warm idling pressure (should be about 61-70 psi in Drive and 74-88 in reverse).
ONLY after checking those two things should an adjustment be made at the Primary Regulator Valve. Line pressure plays a huge role in how the transmission operates. I'm not against increasing line pressure in high mileage transmissions (I have done that to mine) but ALL adjustments need to be correct first.
A no reverse condition could be caused by several things. Ranging from a simple linkage adjustment to line pressure to, failed/leaking reverse circuit (valve body), OD direct Clutch, 1st & Reverse Brake. There would be no electrical/electronic reason for a failure in reverse. Park/Neutral/Reverse are strictly hydraulic/mechanical.
I find it very odd that the trans was working fine before you dropped it out and reinstalled, while doing NO work to the trans.
The ONLY differences are:
Fluid levels
Electrical connectors
Hoses
Cable adjustments
Linkage adjustments
Driveshaft connections
I would start there again. Check bolts, fluid levels (add more if there's even a chance of it being low, you can always drain it after you figure it out), electrical connectors.
Unless you dropped the transmission (literally) there's not much that should have caused the issue unless you let it sit empty and dry for two years while you did the other work.
The ONLY differences are:
Fluid levels
Electrical connectors
Hoses
Cable adjustments
Linkage adjustments
Driveshaft connections
I would start there again. Check bolts, fluid levels (add more if there's even a chance of it being low, you can always drain it after you figure it out), electrical connectors.
Unless you dropped the transmission (literally) there's not much that should have caused the issue unless you let it sit empty and dry for two years while you did the other work.
desmocruiser
SILVER Star
I had this exact same issue and eventual solution!
Fortunately or unfortunately, depending on perspective, it doesn't appear there has been enough 80's with the issue to find the clear internal cause that I have found.
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- #36
Well I had to move the vehicle long story but back to working on it. I found 2 things that concern me one is a piece of metal sandwiched between the vb and trans and the second is what appears to be a bent throttle drum.
is the throttle cable drum supposed to sit level or angled?
is the throttle cable drum supposed to sit level or angled?
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
This is all the FSM has to say on the subject:
So not very helpful. However, from memory (which is admittedly sometimes unreliable), and based on your photo, I think it's correct. If there's a problem it should be obvious. The cam assembly should sit flat on the machined face, however that face is oriented.
So not very helpful. However, from memory (which is admittedly sometimes unreliable), and based on your photo, I think it's correct. If there's a problem it should be obvious. The cam assembly should sit flat on the machined face, however that face is oriented.
Clearly there should not be a piece of metal or any other foreign matter between any of the mating surfaces, so that is likely the product of someone else having been in there before you.
I've not had one apart....but it appears that the throttle valve cam (just an eccentric) bolts into the valve body and acts against the roller on the downshift plug.
Judging from your pics it looks as if the cam is tilted.
So either the bolt is bent or is loose. Whether or not this would adversely affect the function....I can't say.
BUT....the downshift plug has a 'flat' on it which suggests it is there (in part) to orient/clock the roller. The roller and cam are 'supposed' to align vertically, so yours is definitely not doing that. Whether or not that causes 'binding' sufficient to overcome the system pressure....I can't say, but I would correct that anomaly (misalignment) simply because it isn't right.
Once corrected just activate the cam by hand and see that the valve moves freely BOTH directions in the bore.
that's a big chunk of metal 
60wag
SILVER Star
The last pic makes it looks like the cam is supposed to be tilted. It mates well with the roller doesn't it?
