No Power to rear e-locker (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Dec 15, 2008
Threads
4
Messages
28
Location
Bellingham, WA
I posted in December about a rear e-locker that froze after being engaged. Since then I have narrowed down the problem to a lack of power being delivered through the power wire. I was able to manually disengage the locker using a battery. There is no power coming from the wires. The locker was engaged on a road covered in snow and ice, then drove for about 250 yards uphill to my house, where it would not disengage. :crybaby:

I've examined the wire and found no obvious problems. I've read that this could be due to a blown fuse. Where are the fuses? Any other spots I should be looking at first? I really don't want to pay to take it to an automotive electrician shop if I can help it.

Thanks!!
 
There is a manual called the Electronic Wiring Diagrams (EWD) that would be invaluable to you if you are going to do your own repairs. Along with the Factory Service Manual, these 2 books have a lot of very valuable information. You can order them from the Toyota MDC (there is an 800 number floating in 'Mud cyberspace) or you can download electronic versions for $10 and several hours of your time using the TIS web site (link also floating in 'Mud cyberspace.)

There is a 30amp "DIFF" fuse in the fuse panel. I believe it is the fuse panel in the cabin. If not, it is the fuse panel under the bonnet.

-B-
 
Front e-locker receives power and functions normally. Anyone have any idea if this is probably a wiring issue, problem with ECU, or other?
 
At the risk of repeating myself. Go to the link I posted above and scroll down to post 29. Click on that link and download the 3 PDF files. They include the ECU wiring diagrams and the operational description. Very helpful info for troubleshooting the elockers.

Power to the rear elocker is supplied from terminal 1 of the ECU. It is a green wire with a blue stripe (G-L designation on the wiring diagram, note: L=blue in Toyota lingo).

Turn the switch to the rear elocker and see if you're getting current from that wire to ground. That's where I would start. You can also test that wire for conductivity from the ECU to the elocker harness.
 
My guess would be bad contacts inside the e-locker actuator. If the position-swithes do not send the right signals to the difflock-ECU the ECU does not send power to the actuator.

The wires from those switches could also be damaged.

As mentioned this is not a bad fuse since the front works and the ECU is unlikely to fail.

Check all the wires in the harness from the actuator to the frame, if all of them are fine I´m pretty sure you must open up the actuator and clean and regrease the contactors inside.
 

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