no power to anything - battery charged (solved)

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What is fuse 3 for in your truck?

thats a good question because according to the diagram its one of the white/blue splicing off from main white/blue alternator line, BUT when looking at the fuse block and where the wires are going in; stuff looks like its been moved around before coming to me. so in my previous thread electrical nightmare ill find a pic so i dont have to go unscrew it and take a new pic of what it looks like.

heres one ... in picture the right side is the bottom and top is left...this is an old pic those wires have been cleaned up but placement wise i havnt changed anything...

34174F95-8A60-4DD3-ACC5-4573A2EC0378.jpeg


8284E583-6337-4D66-B29C-87E5C7AA5F58.jpeg
 

Skreddy

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Just for fun, pull fuse 3 out completely and see what happens.
I am not that familiar with 76 wiring, but I don’t see how you had voltage at the fuse block and nothing worked, but replacing a connection at the starter fixed that. I’m guessing maybe there’s a coincidence somewhere?
What amp rating was the fuse in 3? What’s in there now? Correct fuses in all locations?
 
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Just for fun, pull fuse 3 out completely and see what happens.
I am not that familiar with 76 wiring, but I don’t see how you had voltage at the fuse block and nothing worked, but replacing a connection at the starter fixed that. I’m guessing maybe there’s a coincidence somewhere?
What amp rating was the fuse in 3? What’s in there now? Correct fuses in all locations?

the main ignition black/white wire wasnt making connection at starter male spade therefore sending nothing to the ignition coil therefore nothing when i turned key...we couldnt see that because of the black plastic housing covering the visual of the actual connection. maybe when i was testing the fuse block the connection was sending something but at the time i had already tested the key on start to see what happened and nothing so when moving past that maybe taking it on and off then made connection ( i didnt try key on start) but went straight to test fuse block ... probably would have engine turn if i had tried key on start after disconnecting and connecting...follow?

but i will do this and see what happens and report back.
 
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ToyotaMatt

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- ALL F and 2F and 3F starters and coolant senders with a MALE Spade terminal have a Small HOLE on them

- this is a YAZAKI invention and still used today widely

- the SPECIAL Positive Grip Terminal i advised kyle to scoop up has a small BALL feature on it , this IS nothing less then a DETENT BALL locking tab design and a
fundamental ANTI PULL off or vibrate or rattle off engineering wonder for its time day invention


- kyle's existing terminal was a standard female one at best and looked LAME too ? sad shape :confused:

- after kyle and i determined he DID have START position B+ in that KEY position , i knew it was a faulty contact issue i have dealt with many many times in the past

- This IS why ALL my starters i offer up simply come with a IN-HOUSE Pre-made DETENT BALL locking special positive grip pigtail equipped terminal and BUTT connector
u don't install you WILL have same in kind KYLE issue he started with

- ALL oil pressure senders with the button connector have this DETENT ball connector too

- the button on sender a tiny hole to LOCK BALL up tight and make positive ELECTRICAL HAMONONY together


- Kyle will NOW change out his OIL sender connector and terminal and his water gauge sender too for good measure



- its really as simple as that ...........

- I fielded a SHOP HOT Line tech call to kyle late last night and in less then 7 JIS metric Minutes he had GO for main Engine Start ....


- im happy for him this is now behind and he can now move forward , onward and upward ........:)




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DSCN8993.JPG
DSCN8994.JPG



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1644125242580.png
 
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SO, the thrilling conclusion...

I have figured it out and everyone, it did have to do with the starter, but not necessarily what you think. After calming myself down by talking to one of my best mud bud's ToyotaMatt - he recentered my thought and I went back to where I started which was voltage flow starting at battery - then fusible link- then starter ....AND remember how voltage was going in but NOT coming out...? that was the biggest clue but we all went past that because we "thought" we had tested and the problem must be somewhere else....No it wasnt, it was merely that the previous owner had a sensor style wire tip female spade style connection (which spring style female connection had worn a bit and wasnt placing enough downward pressure on the male end to make connection) on my black/white which was not sending voltage to the ign coil. ... for some reason we went past that instead of checking that connection better (all bec the plastic housing covered the blunder)


Occam’s Razor...

Congratulations..:bounce::bounce::bounce::bounce:
 

73FJ40

After another night of rust removal!
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It would be a good idea to trace out that #3 circuit to see if you can find the reason that the fuse was blown.
Good point. I'm still wondering why the original issue (25 amp fuse blew) happened.

OP #1
So heres the story, I went in to get smog tested and drove it there with an in-line fuse where my fusible link should have been, long story short the fuse in the in-line kept blowing thus prompting me to ask you guys wtf, and then I was enlightened on the fact that I wasnt supposed to have an "in-line fuse" , I needed a "fusible link" at that spot.

Now I just hook everything back up and literally nothing, not even lights turn on...so there is literally no power being transferred.


I ran with a 20 amp fuse in lieu of the fusible link for several months after getting back on the road. I was concerned about the possibility of shorts, and figured the fuse would fry alot faster than a link. Also, a fuse is quite a bit cheaper to replace than a fusible link.

If fuse #3 is for the lighter and glovebox power plug, could a heavy load have been plugged in?
 
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SO, the thrilling conclusion...

I have figured it out and everyone, it did have to do with the starter, but not necessarily what you think. After calming myself down by talking to one of my best mud bud's ToyotaMatt - he recentered my thought and I went back to where I started which was voltage flow starting at battery - then fusible link- then starter ....AND remember how voltage was going in but NOT coming out...? that was the biggest clue but we all went past that because we "thought" we had tested and the problem must be somewhere else....No it wasnt, it was merely that the previous owner had a sensor style wire tip female spade style connection (which spring style female connection had worn a bit and wasnt placing enough downward pressure on the male end to make connection) on my black/white which was not sending voltage to the ign coil. ... for some reason we went past that instead of checking that connection better (all bec the plastic housing covered the blunder).

ANYWAYS long story short i switched the tip to the correct female spade terminal and now the connection is tight and good. It was hard to notice because of the plastic housing covering the previous owners male wire end....moral to the story when doing electrical work use the correct things dont just use what you have because it ends up causing a problem thats hard to find. if your gunna do it, do it right with the correct materials...correct tip left , incorrect on right which was used. Already tossed the one off the truck so that one pictured looks fine but that slide style female metal just got worn & wasn’t making right connection).

Thank you to ALL who helped me through this and im sure ill be needing some help somewhere down the line ... and of course learning so much throughout this process of my "electrical nightmare" to this problem solving issue, I have learned plenty adn will be able to help someone else.

again thank you especiall to all but Whitey, Pb, RK, and finally ToyotaMatt especially. you guys make mud awesome

View attachment 2915705
Proof that electrical problems are quick and easy to fix…






But can be very difficult to find.






Glad you found the solution… and learned some valuable things along the way.
 
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Good point. I'm still wondering why the original issue (25 amp fuse blew) happened.

OP #1
So heres the story, I went in to get smog tested and drove it there with an in-line fuse where my fusible link should have been, long story short the fuse in the in-line kept blowing thus prompting me to ask you guys wtf, and then I was enlightened on the fact that I wasnt supposed to have an "in-line fuse" , I needed a "fusible link" at that spot.

Now I just hook everything back up and literally nothing, not even lights turn on...so there is literally no power being transferred.


I ran with a 20 amp fuse in lieu of the fusible link for several months after getting back on the road. I was concerned about the possibility of shorts, and figured the fuse would fry alot faster than a link. Also, a fuse is quite a bit cheaper to replace than a fusible link.

If fuse #3 is for the lighter and glovebox power plug, could a heavy load have been plugged in?

its possible in regards to the fuse #3 and heavy load, but also in in regards to why the original fuse blew - probably because i installed the aux fuse box to cover the dual gas tank / arb / tach - those extra loads pushed the 25 to its limit and just wasnt enough to cover everything? but yes weird that it made it to shop (driving carefully of course not going hard on engine)... with the shop tech revving it and whatever else - just couldnt take it at 2 amps...ya its a good question, but everything seems good now nothing blowing and i have correct amp everything and finally the oem spec fusible for my 76
 
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Hey mate If you haven't solved the issue yet. I had a similar issue with my 1979 Daihatsu f50. The key would turn on and we had power tot he dash and light but when trying to start it would shot gun or not even start at all. Ended up searching for broken relays for weeks. the replaced the starter with no result turned out the positive lead from the battery to the starter had worn through and while changing a fuel filter excess diesel had got down there and burnt out the centre of the positive lead. so your new positive lead may be dodgy try and get a genuine automotive one which will handle the voltage.
 
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Hey mate If you haven't solved the issue yet. I had a similar issue with my 1979 Daihatsu f50. The key would turn on and we had power tot he dash and light but when trying to start it would shot gun or not even start at all. Ended up searching for broken relays for weeks. the replaced the starter with no result turned out the positive lead from the battery to the starter had worn through and while changing a fuel filter excess diesel had got down there and burnt out the centre of the positive lead. so your new positive lead may be dodgy try and get a genuine automotive one which will handle the voltage.

thanks for your input, the resolution to this thread was on the previous page (pg 9), loose connection on starter male to female ign. coil wire out connection
 

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