No oiling up top 155 F (2 Viewers)

[daniel.watters]

So, I goofed recently and pulled my known good dizzy to verify fire on another motor I have. Once doing that, I promptly put it back into my dd FJ40 and verified spark by starting it.
A couple days ago I used my 40 to move around my car hauler. About 10 minutes total run time. At the end of that task, I glanced down and notice zero oil pressure. All of my gauges work. So I shut here down and removed the valve cover. I noticed metallic bits sitting on top of the head. Started the motor again to see if my gauge was bad from visibly seeing oiling up too though the rocker arm holes. Nothing.
Drop the oil this morning. Tried screening the best I could and only saw minimum metal bits. Talked to a mud guru and friend on the stated symptoms. He told me that i likely did not reseat my dizzy properly. He was right. The dizzy’s clamp at the base of the shaft was warped. So that’s why I didn’t have oil pressure. Restabbed dizzy, instant oil pressure on the gauge. Unfortunately, I still do not see it oiling at the top. I did pull the oil line from the block and bumped the starter; blew plenty of oil out there.
I’m at a loss on why I haven’t reestablished flow up top. I’m also certain that it’s probably rocker material I’m seeing. Bearings?
Thoughts/suggestions?

 

[firemanj92]

Assuming you bottomed out the the distributor on your 1F(?) in your signature line, it takes a while for oil to get to the head. With that said, it does not spew oil but rather dribble to the rocker. If I recall pull the dizzy put cylinder #4 TDC and run a drill with a screwdriver bit to turn the oil pump. It should flow slowly at the head because the oil holes on the rocker are lined up. If the metal bits are magnetic then it could be bad news. If it's non-ferrous, then it could be bearing foil/material. (Ferrous is magnetic, because it contains iron i.e. the block). Also do an oil change.

 

[Steamer]

I would stop running it till you get the oil flow squared away. Like firemanj92 said, spin the pump with a drill. For the cam oil hole line up, check out "THIS" thread.
It's possible you have some clogging in the rockers and/or shaft. If you're not aware of if ,or when the rocker assembly was disassembled and cleaned you may want to do that. That would also let you get a better look at any damage up that may have occurred up there. There are two oil exit holes in each rocker.

 

[daniel.watters]

So I sorted out the rocker arm assembly and now get a copious amount of oil up top. I adjusted my valves to factory specs. Plenty of oil pressure too. Now when I run her, I get a small puff of white smoke behind the carb near the temp sender plug around the manifold area. The truck is puffing white smoke too out of exhaust. Does not come close to overheating, running nice and quiet, and no contaminated oil.
Is this a blown head gasket? Wouldn’t it get hot or oil mix with antifreeze? Thoughts?

 

[WildernessRimFab]

So I sorted out the rocker arm assembly and now get a copious amount of oil up top. I adjusted my valves to factory specs. Plenty of oil pressure too. Now when I run her, I get a small puff of white smoke behind the carb near the temp sender plug around the manifold area.

Not sure about the puff of smoke by the carb/manifold. If you have "copious" oiling up top could the exhaust smoke be leaking valve stem seals? Otherwise it seems like a compression test is in order to rule out a bad HG.

 

[daniel.watters]

@WildernessRimFab
After watching a couple YouTube vids, this is exactly what I think is wrong. And it’s isolated to the 5th cylinder. I also see where this might be accomplished without removing the head with a couple specialty tools. I’ll order seals, give it a go, and report back. Thx.

 

[pjohnson]

White = coolant
Blue = oil
Check compression on #5 first if that's where the little puff is near. Then do the rest for good measure.
It is possible to have a blown HG without oil in the water.
I had it happen when the HG went in my 4R 3.0 v6. I did end up with water in the oil eventually.