No Oil!!! (1 Viewer)

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If you had zero oil pressure then the light will come on, if you didn't have that then it wasnt completely dry yet. Did you hear any knocking sound during the drive home? I think you'll be okay.
 
If you had zero oil pressure then the light will come on, if you didn't have that then it wasnt completely dry yet. Did you hear any knocking sound during the drive home? I think you'll be okay.
No. No noise, no lights on dash, no gauges reading funny. Just smoke from under hood and burnt oil smell. Should be noted I live and work just a few miles from the dealer, so not like I was a highway speed for 20 miles or anything. About 4 miles and never above 40mph.
That sucks big time. The best outcome you can hope for (if the engine is damaged) is a replacement motor (rebuilt).

My favorite car of ALL time was my 1989 Toyota Supra Turbo. She was white with blue leather interior and the super rare targa top and Fujitsu10 audio system with 10 disc cd changer (very, VERY rare for the time). It was the car my parents got me for my high school graduation. I was meticulous maintaining it. In 1991, I took it to a Jiffy Lube to get the oil changed. They did everything right except put oil back in. Engine seized, turbo destroyed within a few miles. Went round and round until their insurance finally paid for a "new" (rebuilt) motor. She never drove the same after that. I sold it 6 months later after having to take it into the shop multiple times for ongoing issues with the rebuilt motor. I still miss that car more than anything.

I hope your engine is ok. At minimum, I'd demand a 1 year unlimited/no deductible warranty on the engine. File a claim with ToyotaUSA. The dealers are "independent" so there is nothing Toyota corporate can do except "lean" on the dealer. Ultimately, it's up to the dealer to decide what they want to do.

After my recent steering rack debacle (dealer failed to put coolant back in which led to a near catastrophic overheat scenario), I've decided to never, ever, ever again go to any Toyota dealer for any service whatsoever. I now have an 12-month unlimited mileage/no deductible warranty on my motor with the dealer paying for my Blackstone tests every oil change during that window. My costs were significantly more than yours for the original service ($2k+), so getting my money back has been a PITA....but, my fight continues.

In the end, I think it's safe to say that taking our rigs to Toyota dealers is an absolute crap shoot. The guys doing the "basic" services are not mechanics. They are just dudes who work for minimum wage for beer money and don't really care. Nothing is ever torqued correctly, crush washers are left off, short cuts are made everywhere in the interest of saving time. I trust the ham fisted guys at Discount Tire better....and they just ram on the lug nuts with an impact wrench without regard. For reference, I've never met a single Toyota dealer tech here in Austin who can explain what the AHC system is. Heck, several even asked why I was bringing an LX470 to them. They didn't know that it was a LandCruiser. Yeah, that's what we're dealing with. Learn to do most, if not ALL, of your own repairs/maintenance or find a trusted source (I'm lucky here in Austin to have both Land Cruiser Specialists and Bearden Automotive.....both KNOW Land Cruisers very very well).
There's a great shop in Houston that I've been to before, Javier's Crawl Shop. Javier is fantastic. Only problem is Javier is the only guy at his shop. Take your car there be prepared to leave it for a week for work. Like most here I avoid dealer work but who'd a thunk an oil change and putting on new wipers would be so challenging. My pop taught me how to change oil when I was a little kid. It's not exactly splitting the atom.
 
I'm surprised the tech didn't catch it right away, when i first started at my shop i double gasketed the filter while working on a Acura TL. As soon as i started the engine oil was spraying everywhere, i saw it while backing out of the bay and immediately came back to clean up and replaced the filter. As soon as you start any car that oil pump is going and oil should be shooting out if there were 2 gaskets. Should be a trail of oil dripping down from the skid plate and would be spotted while moving your truck out of the service bay.
 
Likely oil filter didn't seal. It happens. That's the reason for test drive and inspection afterwards.

I'd want to be there when they drain. You'll want them to catch oil and measure amount that comes out. Provide it had a one or two quarts remaining, you should be fine.

If any doubt as to heath of engine. Like from being to low or oil gauge on dash reads to low. Reading lower than it had been previously. Request a oil pressure test, and be there to watch it done. When they reinstall oil sending unit after test. Make sure they put sealer on the threads and torque to spec. I use Toyota FIPG 102 or 103 (oil).
 
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I'm surprised the tech didn't catch it right away, when i first started at my shop i double gasketed the filter while working on a Acura TL. As soon as i started the engine oil was spraying everywhere, i saw it while backing out of the bay and immediately came back to clean up and replaced the filter. As soon as you start any car that oil pump is going and oil should be shooting out if there were 2 gaskets. Should be a trail of oil dripping down from the skid plate and would be spotted while moving your truck out of the service bay.

^^^^^

I have that happen just one time in 50 years of servicing my own vehicles (double gasket) and yes, there was a veritable geyser of oil upon start up. Oil everywhere in the engine bay by the time I noticed it on my garage floor and shut it down. What a mess. My own fault for not noticing the old gasket had stuck to the oil filter adapter.
 
With Alita, well she is mine, the wife taking the 4Runner to Toyota is the whole "outta sight outta mind" thing for her. I would rather do it myself for the things that I can and that I have the tools for. Still debating on doing my own starter R&R as I don't have a top level creeper, don't want to buy one and the engine was cramped enough while I was doing the Heater T's!!

Looked up the top level creeper, that's pretty cool. I used one of these when I did the starter, not as versatile but worked.
HF Work platform
 
That sucks big time. The best outcome you can hope for (if the engine is damaged) is a replacement motor (rebuilt).

My favorite car of ALL time was my 1989 Toyota Supra Turbo. She was white with blue leather interior and the super rare targa top and Fujitsu10 audio system with 10 disc cd changer (very, VERY rare for the time). It was the car my parents got me for my high school graduation. I was meticulous maintaining it. In 1991, I took it to a Jiffy Lube to get the oil changed. They did everything right except put oil back in. Engine seized, turbo destroyed within a few miles. Went round and round until their insurance finally paid for a "new" (rebuilt) motor. She never drove the same after that. I sold it 6 months later after having to take it into the shop multiple times for ongoing issues with the rebuilt motor. I still miss that car more than anything.

I hope your engine is ok. At minimum, I'd demand a 1 year unlimited/no deductible warranty on the engine. File a claim with ToyotaUSA. The dealers are "independent" so there is nothing Toyota corporate can do except "lean" on the dealer. Ultimately, it's up to the dealer to decide what they want to do.

After my recent steering rack debacle (dealer failed to put coolant back in which led to a near catastrophic overheat scenario), I've decided to never, ever, ever again go to any Toyota dealer for any service whatsoever. I now have an 12-month unlimited mileage/no deductible warranty on my motor with the dealer paying for my Blackstone tests every oil change during that window. My costs were significantly more than yours for the original service ($2k+), so getting my money back has been a PITA....but, my fight continues.

In the end, I think it's safe to say that taking our rigs to Toyota dealers is an absolute crap shoot. The guys doing the "basic" services are not mechanics. They are just dudes who work for minimum wage for beer money and don't really care. Nothing is ever torqued correctly, crush washers are left off, short cuts are made everywhere in the interest of saving time. I trust the ham fisted guys at Discount Tire better....and they just ram on the lug nuts with an impact wrench without regard. For reference, I've never met a single Toyota dealer tech here in Austin who can explain what the AHC system is. Heck, several even asked why I was bringing an LX470 to them. They didn't know that it was a LandCruiser. Yeah, that's what we're dealing with. Learn to do most, if not ALL, of your own repairs/maintenance or find a trusted source (I'm lucky here in Austin to have both Land Cruiser Specialists and Bearden Automotive.....both KNOW Land Cruisers very very well).

MK3 Supra FTW! I've been obsessed with them since college. Trying to do a full on restomod to a 91 now. Such a shame about yours back then. I've heard lots of people with similar replacement motors never quite measuring up to the originals. Here's a sneak peak of my 91 to give you a quick flashback of that mk3.

1582909947330.png


Trust issues is what started my career in automotive repairs. Turned out to be the best decision of my life, not only is it lucrative, it allows me to buy expensive cars that a normal person with average income wouldn't touch due to the high maintenance and repair cost.

ie. R230 V12 Twinturbo benz, i have 2 of them :)

How did the oil s pray everywhere? If it was the drain plug it'd just simply drain out, if it was the oil cap they forgot to put on then it would eventually get everywhere. Might be a double gasket filter, that would spray oil like an aerosol can and is no fun.

Exactly how I feel, but for me I started wrenching out of necessity as a young kid with a bank account constantly near zero. Now, trust issues are what keep me doing it and similarly it allows me to own much nicer vehicles than I'd otherwise be able to.


@JHebert I'd try to get an oil report out to Blackstone Labs on the dealer dime and I'd want to watch the oil come out of the pan and into the container myself. They should detect if major/abnormal wear occurred better than any other test method I'm aware of.

I'm thinking you caught it in time and may not have damaged things, but I'd push hard for a long term motor warranty. Aim for 3 years, accept as little as 1 year. As someone else suggested, Blackstone reports at every change for at least a year. That'll show you if you've got a bearing on its way out.
 
BE there when they do the compression test.
 
Agree with everyone else. I know that you had it towed to the dealership yesterday but if you can, make it happen so you are there to watch the tech's do ANYTHING to the truck at the moment. I am talking be in their face/way while they are working, they $%#&ed this up the first time, now time to pay their penance.
 
Looked up the top level creeper, that's pretty cool. I used one of these when I did the starter, not as versatile but worked.
HF Work platform
Yeah I think I am going to have to grab one of those regardless to work on the truck. Used the household step stool to do the heater ts and while it helped, getting WAAAYYY back there was an interesting maneuver and good thing I am semi-fit and flexible. Still debating on whether I want to spend $700 for a shop to do it and have it back in a day, or do it myself and be down for about 2 days but save about $500.
 
Update:
When changing filter the dealer didn't remove old gasket. Installed new filter w/ gasket on top of old gasket. One post above called it, double gasket. Once engine built pressure, it blew out the gasket. Dealer is stepping up to the plate. They acknowledged fault. They are cleaning engine and under carriage of LC now and will fill w/ new oil and filer, then run compression tests on engine. Per dealer (if I believe them) when they pulled the drain plug two quarts of oil drained out so while no reading on dip stick, maybe enough oil to keep engine from getting damaged. Worth noting, engine temp never went excessively high nor did oil pressure gauge drop when I was driving it.
FYI - this is a '04 TLC w/ 190K miles. OME suspension, ARB bumper, etc. I'm original owner.

If they come back as say everything looks good (which they always do) insist on no less than 12 months warranty on that claim. Problems that are inherent in losing all your oil aren't readily discernable. Time will tell. Filling with oil and not hearing anything wrong, good compression numbers and the like are only the beginning. It is possible that irreparable damage could have been done that isn't going to rear it's head for another 400-1000 miles. DO NOT sign anything to the effect that they resolved the problem. There is no way for you or them to know without taking the engine down to find out. Keep that in mind. No matter how much they seem to step up, they do not have your best interest in mind. Act accordingly and protect yourself.
 
If they come back as say everything looks good (which they always do) insist on no less than 12 months warranty on that claim. Problems that are inherent in losing all your oil aren't readily discernable. Time will tell. Filling with oil and not hearing anything wrong, good compression numbers and the like are only the beginning. It is possible that irreparable damage could have been done that isn't going to rear it's head for another 400-1000 miles. DO NOT sign anything to the effect that they resolved the problem. There is no way for you or them to know without taking the engine down to find out. Keep that in mind. No matter how much they seem to step up, they do not have your best interest in mind. Act accordingly and protect yourself.
This... get full documentation of everything, have it added to the Toyota Website for service records, etc.
Hopefully they will move forward without argument but I would not "settle" for anything less than the 1yr warranty on any engine related issues from this date (call it 3/1) with full coverage (aka no out of pocket for you) by the dealer (can throw with rental vehicle in there if an issue does come up if you really want to fight them).
 
Like most here I avoid dealer work but who'd a thunk an oil change and putting on new wipers would be so challenging. My pop taught me how to change oil when I was a little kid. It's not exactly splitting the atom.

For sure. It amazes me that anyone could mess up an oil change. I've been using the Fumoto valve on mine for years and it makes the change so easy it's ridiculous. FYI, the "tech" at the Toyota dealer that screwed up my rack install asked me what that valve was and suggested I put in a regular bolt instead....lol. I could have done my steering rack, but was a little lazy and figured it would be easier to pay to have someone else do it. I certainly wound up "paying" for it. I've had Land Cruiser Specialists do my oil on 2 occasions as my rig was there for other services.
 
. I've been using the Fumoto valve on mine for years and it makes the change so easy it's ridiculous.

^^^^

How far do the threads extend up into the oil pan....does anyone know? Just wondering how much oil doesn't drain fully from the pan when using the valve? If it's minimal....I'm thinking about installing one.
 
^^^^

How far do the threads extend up into the oil pan....does anyone know? Just wondering how much oil doesn't drain fully from the pan when using the valve? If it's minimal....I'm thinking about installing one.

Interesting question. As I recall, it was the same "depth" of threads as the OEM bolt. I only eye-balled it though and wasn't really thinking about a thread depth difference. The only way to know would be to order one off Amazon and compare to the OEM bolt. Amazon would do a free return if you didn't want to keep it for some reason. I'm WAAAY too lazy to remove mine and compare it now :)

Anyway, I put in 7.2 qts each oil change (5k miles) and the last 3 times I drained the oil, I got 7.0-7.1~ qts. I have a little leaking at the valve gasket cover which could explain the minor delta.
 
Okay back on topic about dealer negligence, OP, keep us posted on the situation, though i think you will be fine.
 
Not the same...but I did experience some negligence with a mechanic...If you want the details, PM me.

LX 470 Disaster
 
Closing the loop on above. No excuse for being so careless in an oil change but the dealer stepped up. Service manager was great. Got the engine and underside of the car cleaned like if they were going to put in in the lot for sale. Compression tests were excellent. While he had things broken apart they replaced spark plugs and cleaned throttle body. They did an engine oil treatment then replaced with fresh clean oil. They replaced my front brakes & rotors (which I was planning on doing soon anyway), couple other odds and ends. Above someone said I should leave that dealer in a new 200LC. That didn't happen but I'm pleased with their response to the situation. I wasn't there to be an a-hole or take advantage. Just wanted them to make it right.
 
Closing the loop on above. No excuse for being so careless in an oil change but the dealer stepped up. Service manager was great. Got the engine and underside of the car cleaned like if they were going to put in in the lot for sale. Compression tests were excellent. While he had things broken apart they replaced spark plugs and cleaned throttle body. They did an engine oil treatment then replaced with fresh clean oil. They replaced my front brakes & rotors (which I was planning on doing soon anyway), couple other odds and ends. Above someone said I should leave that dealer in a new 200LC. That didn't happen but I'm pleased with their response to the situation. I wasn't there to be an a-hole or take advantage. Just wanted them to make it right.

Good to hear they took care of you and your Cruiser!

What exactly did they have broken apart? Just the plugs out to do the compression tests?

Lastly, I'm curious what the engine oil treatment involved?
 

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