I'm making the switch to synthetics (transfer and engine) today in search of better gas mileage. :ugh: I'm a bit nervous due to rumors about dissenting gaskets and such. 85,000 on the ticker...
Wish me luck.
CJ
Wish me luck.
CJ
No more dino juice
- Thread starter Curran
- Start date
Don't expect miracles. You might gain 1 mpg. It is jsut better for your cruiser.
Yomama
Yomama
AMSOIL now has seal swellers, but I haven't upgraded to it just yet. Yes I'm biased as I've been a 'dealer' off and on for years but never did much except subsidize my own habit. I think the tranny will be the first to switch over-
I tried the Amsoil in my 4runner and it didn't last long at all. I went almost 5,000 miles on it and when I changed it, it looked horrible. I have heard stories of people changing it after 8K miles and it looking like it just went in. Mine was nasty looking and I didn't drive my runner hard at all. I might stick with the Quaker State synthetic and change it at regular intervals.
I wish the Amsoil would have held up, especially since I paid around 8 dollars a quart for it.
I wish the Amsoil would have held up, especially since I paid around 8 dollars a quart for it.
Jacknasty, the amsoil may have just got everything in suspension that has been in your motor for a long time, might try using it a second time to see if it's any better. Just a thought.
Curran, I just switched to mobil 1 full synthetic 10w 30 last night, I've got 179k miles. I don't expect any problems, I've switched all my cars to synthetic engine oil for the last six years, a 93 BMW 525 w/55k, a 92 Honda Accord w/140k, a 90 Mitsu Montero w/~100k, 96 Toyota T100 w/50k. Never had any leaks on them after the switch, hopefully no different with the LC.
Alittle increase in mpg would be nice but, mostly I like that it doesn't break down as badly as dino, and I won't feel bad changing it at 6000-7500 (mall cruisin) miles.
Curran, I just switched to mobil 1 full synthetic 10w 30 last night, I've got 179k miles. I don't expect any problems, I've switched all my cars to synthetic engine oil for the last six years, a 93 BMW 525 w/55k, a 92 Honda Accord w/140k, a 90 Mitsu Montero w/~100k, 96 Toyota T100 w/50k. Never had any leaks on them after the switch, hopefully no different with the LC.
Alittle increase in mpg would be nice but, mostly I like that it doesn't break down as badly as dino, and I won't feel bad changing it at 6000-7500 (mall cruisin) miles.
Another oil thread, OH NO!
Anyway, I run synthetic in the Porsche turbo, as the turbocharger runs hot and really needs all the help it can get (the motor being air cooled and all). I change every 3-5k.
I run dino in the LC. The sump is huge (comparatively) and I change every 3-5k so the major benefit of syth, longer life in the engine between changes, doesn't really apply. Esp. for the cost/benefit with 8 quarts every 3-5k!
Just my .02, worth less on eBay...
Anyway, I run synthetic in the Porsche turbo, as the turbocharger runs hot and really needs all the help it can get (the motor being air cooled and all). I change every 3-5k.
I run dino in the LC. The sump is huge (comparatively) and I change every 3-5k so the major benefit of syth, longer life in the engine between changes, doesn't really apply. Esp. for the cost/benefit with 8 quarts every 3-5k!
Just my .02, worth less on eBay...
I swiched to Mobil 1 at 210k mi. I have several leaks to take care of that were there before. I tighten the pan and stopped that leak. I used the Mobil 1 10w30. I changed the filter at 3000 mi and after tightening the pan there is no oil consumption.
kurt
kurt
If you were running a quality synthetic (red line, amsoil, royal purple) than you should be able to get more like 8k out of it. Pay attention to the fluid level, and change your filter out at 4k.
Just my.02
I don't know how to make synthetic oil but I have herd that crude oil is not from Dino. It is believed that oil is naturaly occuring deep in the Earth. Oil can be made with water and minerals and high presure equal to what is found deep in the earth. I have a hard time with that many dino's died in one place at one time and then all the energy form them drained deep into the earth. This had to happen in all the placed that oil is found. Just a thought.
kurt
kurt
Hey Jacknasty, I have heard of things like that happening- I'd maybe give a synthetic another try- You can really get some garbage build up in an engine over time- are you running a K&N? They let a lot of crap pass through. I have one in my Tundra but I have several associates who have sworn off them as we live in a very dusty environment and many believe that they let a lot of parrticles pass through. Synthetics last longer- they don't break down as fast as dinosaur oil over time/ temps..... I have no economic interest in this discussion as I said, I only subsidize my habits
My .02, sure to cause a ****storm....oil David O'N
iell
My .02, sure to cause a ****storm....oil David O'N
iell
landtoy, think plants man, PLANTS. 
Regards, Sean
Regards, Sean
G
Guest
Guest
So is everybody thats using synthetic oil running the regular recommended weight(as in 5w30)or something different?and why?
just some saturdaynite contemplating.......
doug(who still cant come to terms with 40.00+ for 8 quarts of oil)(and still want to be anal and change it at 3000 miles)
just some saturdaynite contemplating.......
doug(who still cant come to terms with 40.00+ for 8 quarts of oil)(and still want to be anal and change it at 3000 miles)
If you are gonna change it at 3000 miles, any readily available oil will do just fine. Even the cheapest stuff.
I have 60k on my powerstroke and since switching to amsoil at 5k I haven't done an oil change. Bypass filters and extended drain intervals will get me to 100k before I uncork the oil pan. With synthetics in your Cruiser (and my 2000 FZJ100) you can change to it, then at 5k replace the filter and top it off, again at 10k, then at 15 change the oil and filter.
Your tranny will be the happiest with the changeover if done before you rack up lots of miles and have already worn or damaged it. The temp at which synthetics crap is lots higher than petroleum based lubes, this alone will make the tranny happy.
Same with power steering. A good cooler and synthetics will make a big difference in a locked up rig that is wheeled at a slow but strenuous pace.
Amsoil specifically will mix with all petro based fluids of similar specs and intended usage. Yes I am a dealer, but only for my personal useage, but more importantly I am a believer!
Needless to say I run Amsoil products everywhere in all my vehicles and fleet (at work). My sm420 never shifted better till I filled it with Synthetic gear lube. Sorry if this sounds like a commercial, don't contact me to buy it, just adding my experience with the product. BTW, it's only $80 a year to be a dealer and save some serious $$$ over retail.
96cruiser- I use 10w30 mobil one synthetic, same viscosity that is recommended in the owners manual fo dino oil. I haven't heard any good arguments to convince me to switch to another viscosity yet. I've usually changed oil at 7500 on vehicles when using synth even though that is the recommended interval (normal driving conditions) for conventional oil for most cars, so I'm sure it could go much longer without worry. If you have a Walmart near you, you have a cheap source for mobil one oil, 5 qt jugs for $18.88. 3 jugs will get you 2 oil changes, less than $30 in oil per change.
Walmart does not have synth tranny fluid or gear oil, and I haven't switched the cruiser over to those yet, I just found out when getting the oil filter at the dealer last week, that it had a tranny, trans and diff fluid service only a year ago, so I won't worry about it for a little while.
Walmart does not have synth tranny fluid or gear oil, and I haven't switched the cruiser over to those yet, I just found out when getting the oil filter at the dealer last week, that it had a tranny, trans and diff fluid service only a year ago, so I won't worry about it for a little while.
Doug,
I tend to believe Mike's (SG) assessment though I don't practice it.
I got my '97 about 20 months ago. It had documented oil and filter changes by the PO at 3k intervals using Castrol full synthetic.
I have continued the full synthetic (Mobil-1 5w30 cold weather and 10w30 warm weather) but have extended the drain intervals to 5k miles (Oil and filter.)
I simply don't have the courage to move to 15k intervals with 5k filter changes. It makes sense and I want to believe it but I just can't bring myself to try it.
I have heard of and know of a high percentage of 90-100k 1FZ-FE's with rear main seal leaks. My gut feel is these are vehicles with poor oil change history. Mine doesn't leak a drop of ANY fluid (knock on wood!)
Buy your Mobil-1 at Wally World like Firetruck said. The price isn't not too bad considering the peace of mind and the cost of a rebuild on these engines!
-B-
I tend to believe Mike's (SG) assessment though I don't practice it.
I got my '97 about 20 months ago. It had documented oil and filter changes by the PO at 3k intervals using Castrol full synthetic.
I have continued the full synthetic (Mobil-1 5w30 cold weather and 10w30 warm weather) but have extended the drain intervals to 5k miles (Oil and filter.)
I simply don't have the courage to move to 15k intervals with 5k filter changes. It makes sense and I want to believe it but I just can't bring myself to try it.
I have heard of and know of a high percentage of 90-100k 1FZ-FE's with rear main seal leaks. My gut feel is these are vehicles with poor oil change history. Mine doesn't leak a drop of ANY fluid (knock on wood!)
Buy your Mobil-1 at Wally World like Firetruck said. The price isn't not too bad considering the peace of mind and the cost of a rebuild on these engines!
-B-
-B-
A footnote:
Often the "rear main seal" oil leak is in fact the seal retainer to upper oil pan rail seeping. If one does this job it is prudent to pull and reseal the retainer as well as the seal as the retainer is often the origin of the leak...............
 an
A footnote:
Often the "rear main seal" oil leak is in fact the seal retainer to upper oil pan rail seeping. If one does this job it is prudent to pull and reseal the retainer as well as the seal as the retainer is often the origin of the leak...............
 
an
]landtoy, think plants man, PLANTS.
Regards, Sean [/quote]
Plants = Coal
Dino = oil if you can believe that
kurt
Regards, Sean [/quote]
Plants = Coal
Dino = oil if you can believe that
kurt
Dito, I wish is would of known of the retainer so I wouldn't of have to drop the trany twice.-B-
A footnote:
Often the "rear main seal" oil leak is in fact the seal retainer to upper oil pan rail seeping. If one does this job it is prudent to pull and reseal the retainer as well as the seal as the retainer is often the origin of the leak...............
 
kurt
