No crank fzj80

[Class3bko]

Ok sonover the past few months I've had ongoing issues with the factory alarm. Last week my battery gave up and left me stranded so I bought a new one swapped it in and all was good. Yesterday I decided to tackle the alarm by removing the old harness and reconnecting the factory harness back together. After it was all plugged back in I tested it and it fired right up. I reinstalled the kick panel and didn't touch it for the rest of the day. Next morning I discover I somehow left the lights on even though I was working on it during the day but I killed the battery. Tried a jump, but nothing no click or anything. Got home after work and charged up battery still nothing. Rechecked the plugs under kick panel and all lights om dash AT and oil etc showing up and all other accessories working. I'm stumped I need to test if I'm getting power to the starter but from what I've read I don't believe its a NSS issue.
93 fzj Toyota factory starter no cranking issues to speak of till this point. Checked the fuses under hood and by the knee but not any relays.

 

[KliersLC]

Did you check the fusible links?

 

[bmwjnky]

What is the voltage at the battery and what is the voltage when you try and crank it? It takes way less juice to power some interior lights than it does to turn the engine over.

 

[Class3bko]

Battery voltage is good and doesn't seem to be dropping while trying to turn over. Haven't put a meter on the fusible links yet but did do the I cab check I found on another thread. Only thinkg that happens when try to start is the clock goes out while you turn the key all the way. No click or anything from the starter.

 

[Tools R Us]

Sounds like a poor connection, battery terminal(s), fusible link, etc. The fusible links are somewhat delicate, with age the wire strands can crack, sometimes will show good voltage without load, but fall when loaded. My first test is to simply pull on them, you shouldn't be able to break them, if they are stretchy, pull in half, you know where the problem is. Have temporarily twisted, spliced them to get a rig going.

 

[Class3bko]

Check we d the fusible links again and one wire does have a split in the insulation all the way around. I'm going to pull it off and test it but where can I get a replacement.

 

[Class3bko]

Well the new fusible link won't be here till Tuesday so I was going to check out the connection for the neutral safety switch and I cannot figure out where it is.

Pass side trans

• Class3bko
• Jul 3, 2016

This is off the forum somewhere of the passenger side of the trans describing the connector. Mine doesn't have the assembly behind the arm linkage.

Not sure if there are variations among years. Mine is a 93 but I cannot find anything like this. On the other side the harness goes all the way up the trans and out towards the starter with two connectors.

 

[thelal]

That last picture looks like it with the cable coming down on the top.
Mine's a 97 so looks a bit different (matches other pics on forum) and I ended up snapping the elec connector (trying to get it off to check it was not corroded)

I'm fighting a similar issue with my 97 and no crank. Able to 'jump-start' via starter (added as-needed touch to +12v off battery) IGN wire and runs fine so will need to back-track from there. I think my RS3000 ain't working - no 'noise/light' with key in ACC/ON and won't re-program or respond to FOBs)

 

[jonheld]

Well the new fusible link won't be here till Tuesday so I was going to check out the connection for the neutral safety switch and I cannot figure out where it is.

Not sure if there are variations among years. Mine is a 93 but I cannot find anything like this. On the other side the harness goes all the way up the trans and out towards the starter with two connectors.

View attachment 1284932

Not sure what you're asking, but that's a great picture of the neutral start switch. On A440F and A442F transmissions, it is on the left side as pictured. On A343F transmissions, it is on the right side.

 

[Class3bko]

Yeahbafter more research I found out mine has two connectors on top of the bell housing that's a pita to get to. I found something else of interest. Under the dash there is what appears to be a relay maybe. It's got to bk-w wires a blue with red dashes and a bk-r wire. I know it's related because the bk-w both go hot when I turn the key to start. I have no idea on the blue wire and the bk-r wire doesn't go hot plugged in or not. I'm wondering if the blue wire could be a switched ground from the NSS to open the relay circuit?

 

[Class3bko]

As far as your alarm system it's relatively easy to remove. Just unscrew the foot rest and the kicker Panel and you'll see two sets of three connectors. Unplug them all and plug the factory harness back together then pull out the rs3000 harness through the carpet and there is one connector for the light in the dash just pop the light out and start pulling it out and you should find the connector.

 

[Class3bko]

I think I'm going to splice into the blue wire and test it to ground to see what I get. If it works I know it's most likely related to the NSS but at least I have a starting truck just have to be careful, although I had an old Bronco without an NSS for 7-8 years so it's not that bad anyway.

 

[Class3bko]

Well status report. It lives. When I grounded the blue wire it started Right up. I'm going to investigate to see if this wire came from NSS or if it had something to do with the alarm. But for anyone having this issue. I'd look here as a starting point as it's really easy to get to and test

 

[thelal]

As far as your alarm system it's relatively easy to remove. Just unscrew the foot rest and the kicker Panel and you'll see two sets of three connectors. Unplug them all and plug the factory harness back together then pull out the rs3000 harness..

Thanks - do you have any pictures as I have all mine exposed and nothing obvious as regards what is to be unplugged (and replugged). Do you have any pics or indications to elec FSM (I have that) or I can post some pics if that helps