No Clutch????

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Joined
Feb 15, 2007
Threads
119
Messages
947
Location
Santa Rosa, CA
So i noticed over the last week a flat line drop off in my clutch, it's really hard to shift, like im not depressing the clutch even with the pedal to the floor? i looked in my chiltons and theres nothing on adjusting the clutch cable. (just to clarify the actual clutch is functioning holding it in gear under exeleration and deceleration ect) so basically the pedal is not working i hafta slam it to the floor sometimes 2 or 3 times to get it to work so WTF is up any thoughts on how to adjust cable or is that even a possibility?
 
There is no procedure for adjusting the cable because there is no cable. The clutch is hydraulic. First check the fluid level in the reservoir. it could just be low, but that probably means you have a leak. If you can't find a leak try bleeding the line. If the problem presists you probably need to replace or rebuild either the master, the slave or both.
 
if one is bad, the other's not far behind. do them both as they're not that expensive and it's an easy job too.
 
ok sounds pretty much like thats whats happenen any recomended parts store and ome or after market of after market any brands to use or avoide?
 
While awaiting fixing the clutch, it's actually quite easy to change gears in a 60 without using the clutch, i.e. by "floating" the gears. You do need the clutch to get rolling in first but then you can gently move the stick into neutral and into 2nd without depressing the clutch. It takes longer to comlete a full shift and you have to match the engine speed with the truck speed - but once you do it a few times it's easy. The higher the gear - the easier it is -i.e. shifting from 3rd to 4th is very easy.
Just something to get you by while you're working on the cure.
 
winston yeah ive already been messing with that, doen it in a few other cars over my years of driving usually just for fun but ive been a little more serious about it in the 60 just in case i actually hafta, down shifting is the real pita though cause i try to save the breaks, ive always tried to use the tranny to slow down when it's an option. but thanks for the suggestion
 
You CAN generally adjust the slave cylinder rod. That's the rod between the slave cylinder and the clutch fork. You may want to try that if you are not losing any fluid.
I said generally because some are not adjustable. If it is adjustable, make it longer for less pedal travel.
 
You CAN generally adjust the slave cylinder rod. That's the rod between the slave cylinder and the clutch fork. You may want to try that if you are not losing any fluid.
I said generally because some are not adjustable. If it is adjustable, make it longer for less pedal travel.

It depends on the year. My 84 has an adjustment and a hole in the end of the clutch fork to do so. My 86 has no adjustment and no hole in the clutch fork.

He never posted or I never saw what year his was.
 
It depends on the year. My 84 has an adjustment and a hole in the end of the clutch fork to do so. My 86 has no adjustment and no hole in the clutch fork.

He never posted or I never saw what year his was.
yep :)
 
84. ill take a look as soon as the honey do list is doen so ill probly be adjusting $#!T in the dark as usual. keep the suggestions comming though in case its something else, or theres more complicated info i need for anything that has already been sugested.

and i updated my sig to avoide confusion previously stated 83 fj60
 
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if it suddenly happened.. it is not an adjustment, it is a replacement..
 
just did mine in the driveway in about an hour (both master and slave). as soon as the boss (wife) gets home, I'll bleed the system and be set.
 
temp fix

well i actually had a chance to look her over today theres no leak to speek of more like the fluid overflowing from the master cylinder, pumped the clutch while looking at the cylinder and i could see bubbles from the "vent" on top, is it suposed to be that full? couldn't find proper fill level in chiltons (i did notice my break fluid is low and my electric fan is not plugged in engine temp doesn't get too hot so im not really worried about it) any way i adjusted the push rod to almost as long as i can make it without totally unscrewing the clevis from the rod (still a couple threads on the pedal side so no accidental unscrewing) took a few laps through the hills by my house plenty of shifting and it's alot better than the last couple days, should hold me over tell i replace it or find something else is wrong.

btw where is the clutch slave? not listed in chiltons?
 
The slave is at the other end of the pushrod from the clutch fork down on the side of the tranny/bellhousing.

Are you adjusting the clutch pedal or the pushrod? As others have said, not all pushrods are adjustable.
 
well i actually had a chance to look her over today theres no leak to speek of more like the fluid overflowing from the master cylinder, pumped the clutch while looking at the cylinder and i could see bubbles from the "vent" on top, is it suposed to be that full? couldn't find proper fill level in chiltons (i did notice my break fluid is low and my electric fan is not plugged in engine temp doesn't get too hot so im not really worried about it) any way i adjusted the push rod to almost as long as i can make it without totally unscrewing the clevis from the rod (still a couple threads on the pedal side so no accidental unscrewing) took a few laps through the hills by my house plenty of shifting and it's alot better than the last couple days, should hold me over tell i replace it or find something else is wrong.

btw where is the clutch slave? not listed in chiltons?


Wipe the nasty stuff off the reservoir. The low and high marks are molded into the plastic "cup".
 
sounds like he adjusted the push rod on the pedal..
 
sounds like he adjusted the push rod on the pedal..

I agree! The is NO clevis on the pushrod at the slave cylinder and he says he's adjusted till the clevis is nearly off. That's why I asked the question.
 
D'Animal ill hafta check again it's not all that nasty though just slight overflow, i think however its an aftermarket, cause the PO replaced almost everything under the hood and it doesn't look like the one in the chiltons diagram.
cruiser_guy, Mace i adjusted the push rod to the master cylinder, again going by the chiltons diagram the little thing that pins the pedal to the push rod is a clevis

anyone konw of a better manual for cruisers than chiltons? is the yota factory manual better or is there another option?
 
The factory manuals are an awesome resource - better then the Chiltons or Haynes manuals.
 

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