nitrocharger sport 60071L replacement for n74L (1 Viewer)

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Nov 11, 2011
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Location
Kamloops
I did a search and only found shotts' reference to these coming out, but nothing overall to anyone installing these. If I am mistaken, please provide some feedback to your experience. I posted some comments on 'what did you do to your 100 series this week' with only one comment referring me to what has already been done on the n74L on this forum. That thread and long standing run of threads are no secret and 7 years old, but nothing spoke of the 60071L nitro charger sport as a replacement to the n74L. My apologies if this is all a repeat or a been discussed like the n74l debate.

I performed the swap out last night on the old n101 I had in there, paired with the 863 spring. I used the reference from Shott's swap writeup of the N74L just to see the hardware needs and what has to be swapped from the old shock. From that thread, it was my understanding that lower bushing needs to be exchanged with the n101, plus the washers/hardware is to be reused from the n101 up top.

My experience was different.. I haven't compared the old n74L stats to the 60071L yet (will do later today), however, i assumed it would be similar measurements. We all know what assuming does. Anyways, i pulled the old shocks out and looked at all the hardware. To me, the bushings up top were the same thickness (no mention of having to use the old ones) and i used the new ones. The washers however, were all but the same except for the inside diameter. I couldn't reuse the old washers as they inside diameter was larger than the new washers that fit over the pin. I suppose i could, but i didn't have to. I pressed the lower bushing into the shock tower and installed the bottom of the shock onto the mount, lightly screwing it in. i then lined up the upper pin on the shock tower with the hole in the frame support, pulling the retaining clip for the shock. As expected, it extended it self under internal pressure and lined up and into the hole nicely with the bottom half of the bushings stacked onto the upper pin. I should say here that i expected the hardware kit to come with 4 washers of equal size, much like the old n101.. it came with three thick washers and one tin washer that had a smaller outside diameter but larger inside diameter. i didn't see how this would work on this shock mount to truck and suspect its specific to the 80 series to which it was designed. the 1n01 has a similar washer but it didn't transfer over. since i was down a total of one washer per side now, i could simply reuse one washer from the old hardware - no biggy. the inside diameter was mated to the old n101 shock and was a bit bigger, but shouldn't do anything if i place it correctly in the stack where is shouldn't matter. I continued on with installing the top stack and found there was absolutely no way to get the top nut on; there was simply not enough thread sticking through to grab the thread..

thinking about this i decided as a short term solution until this weekend to get the truck mobile again is to ditch the bottom washer that sits on top of the frame mount.. I figured the frame mount would act the same as the washer anyways. after sleeping on it and consulting a fellow cruiser head, i now am aware this washer prevents wearing of the bushing as the pin moves slightly during suspension cycling. i suppose over many cycles it would wear out.

now that i've slept on it i'm going to pull the shock back out and trim each of the bushings by 1/8 inch, giving me and extra 1/4 inch per side. This will allow me to add the final washer and get it back in appropriately and negate any wear.

now for bump stop lowering by 0.5 an inch..


edit -
N101 (the typical 100-series rear shock from OME): 24.0" extended x 14.2" compressed = 9.8" max extension.
N74L: 26.3" extended x 15.2" compressed = 11.1" max extension. (Slee website)
60071L - 26.49" extended 15.23" compressed = 11.26" max extension
 
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I will get some photos as i have to take the shocks out again for shaving the bushings. As for the retaining clip, i take no credit for originality as it was a recommendation from Slee in 2005/06 and i believe first done by John Shotts when he installed his n75L. I'm sure many others have done it that run the mod as well, but it simply is a 'J' tab welded on the spring to the axle, located on the centerline side of the truck when looking from the back. There are photos in the following site by John Shotts and other info related should apply across to the 60071L.. There are also some threads that beat this to death and i can dig them up if you want some entertainment;).

http://shottscruisers.smugmug.com/V...ear-Shock/856625_8n2gNk#!i=43034104&k=2XWhSCw
 
When I did the N74L's I did not change any of the hardware. They bolted up just fine and was able to tighten them down to my spec (as tight as I could get them, without getting the hammer out). I did have ACC Toyota in Atlanta fabricate some spring retainers. I would not weld tabs to the axle like Shotts did. Brian at ACC drilled a hole in the steel plate and bolted it to the axle, using the OEM hole in the spring bucket. The brake lines were a little short, so I unbolted the brake line bracket and used some flat steel from Home Depot and lowered it a little bit to gain 3-4" of slack. The main issue I see with the rear bushings on the control arms. I added 2" shock extenders and it was destroying the bushings. I have since removed the extensions, however the bushings still see extreme angles. I never extended the bump stops on the rears with 305/75/16 KM-2's. I did not have any issues with the shocks, however I did get slight rubbing in the rear wheel well. I just went 35's and I will have to lower them 2"+ to keep them off the wheel well. With the sway bars on (non-extended links) I could not get the suspension to fully compress/droop. Without the sway bar on the rear I opened up a whole new world of wheel travel with the 100.

To elaborate on the hardware, I compared my old Bilsteins 4600's and the mounting points looked very similar. I figured I would give it a shot and not swap any of the hardware. I have a hair over 30,000 miles on the N74L's and haven't had a single issue or squeak. I do think they are ready for replacing, so I am going to search for a shock that has similar lengths.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Here is a picture of the N74L's with 2" extensions and no sway bars.

N74L Cycling .jpg
 
When I did the N74L's I did not change any of the hardware. They bolted up just fine and was able to tighten them down to my spec (as tight as I could get them, without getting the hammer out). I did have ACC Toyota in Atlanta fabricate some spring retainers. I would not weld tabs to the axle like Shotts did. Brian at ACC drilled a hole in the steel plate and bolted it to the axle, using the OEM hole in the spring bucket. The brake lines were a little short, so I unbolted the brake line bracket and used some flat steel from Home Depot and lowered it a little bit to gain 3-4" of slack. The main issue I see with the rear bushings on the control arms. I added 2" shock extenders and it was destroying the bushings. I have since removed the extensions, however the bushings still see extreme angles. I never extended the bump stops on the rears with 305/75/16 KM-2's. I did not have any issues with the shocks, however I did get slight rubbing in the rear wheel well. I just went 35's and I will have to lower them 2"+ to keep them off the wheel well. With the sway bars on (non-extended links) I could not get the suspension to fully compress/droop. Without the sway bar on the rear I opened up a whole new world of wheel travel with the 100.

To elaborate on the hardware, I compared my old Bilsteins 4600's and the mounting points looked very similar. I figured I would give it a shot and not swap any of the hardware. I have a hair over 30,000 miles on the N74L's and haven't had a single issue or squeak. I do think they are ready for replacing, so I am going to search for a shock that has similar lengths.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Here is a picture of the N74L's with 2" extensions and no sway bars.

Bolting the spring retainer in with a nutsert seems cleaner. Otherwise how would shots swap springs? Cut off the weld?

I ran no rear sway bar in my old one with the normal 6000 shocks and 285s and had rubbing. My 295s also run lightly at full lock with the sway bar. Very weird.
 
Metal Tech still has some of the older N74L's in stock. Get em before they're gone!
 
Jordan - Did you ever get the top nut to connect? I have tried all evening long and I CANNOT get the top nut to even have a thread free to catch the nut, even when leaving out a spacer. I have tried the spacers that came with the shocks - way too thick... the original bushings and spacers - too thick and old. At this point, I do not know what to do, other than to send them back.

Any suggestions? I was able to install my 863 spring, but I just cannot get the top nut to engage on the short top bolt.

Thanks for the help,

Jonathan
 
Just to update this thread, I spoke with Cruiser Outfitters this morning and asked if it would hurt anything if I were to cut the bushings in half to allow for sufficient space for the top nut to be started. They stated that it should be ok, but to be careful with the cut, as any secondary cuts could cause premature wear.

I will be trying this tonight with my scroll saw and seeing if I can make these fit. I will update this thread once I know for sure. Otherwise, I will be ordering a pair of OME 60002s tomorrow morning for installation later this week.

Jonathan
 
So last night I split one of the bushings in half to be used on both shocks. That trim down of a single bushing did the trick and I was able to bolt the shocks right up.

One thing to note for anyone who has not done this before - jack up both sides and get the whole rear on jack stands! That makes getting the coils in and out fairly easy without unbolting anything at all. I did go down to Lowes and pick up a 16" pry bar (~$9) which worked out great getting those coils moving!

With that done, I was able to move to the front and install the shocks there as well. That was just easy, except getting the bent driver's side shock out. I did not know that it was bent, but with it unbolted, it took me hammering on it to get it out. Once out, everything went in easy as pie!

Jonathan
 
I'm new around here, so first of all ... Hello, I'm Bren, greetings from Madrid!:cheers:
I found this thread while looking for specs on OME shocks, as i'm thinking of getting a set of 60071L shocks for the rear.
I see that you measured yours Jordan? could you please tell me from where you measured?
i.e. centre of eyelet to where the pin is welded to the shock body or to bushing face that sits against the mount...... if ya know what i mean??
Thanks
 
Bren,

these are the factory supplied specs, but i assume from eyelet to eyelet.. I don't recall how i measured them as its been over a year.
 
nitrocharger sport 60071L replacement for n74L

what is the difference because I don't get it...

What about a bilstein .......

which shock is going to be better for running fast on dirt road (baja)
 
nitrocharger sport 60071L replacement for n74L

what is the difference because I don't get it...

What about a bilstein .......

which shock is going to be better for running fast on dirt road (baja)

what about a Bilstein he asks... I'd say not long enough. I was running a washboard near Bodie when this gave up.

You'd need the Aussie extended Bilstein not a standard 4600.

IMG_8405.jpg

IMG_8405.jpg
 
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There are also some threads that beat this to death and i can dig them up if you want some entertainment;).


Yeees please will you dig up the threads which criticize Shotts' N74L modification?
I'm going to order the parts to perform this mod and would like to read all pros and cons.
Also, the latest version of the OME N74L is the 60072L (source: Christo Slee).
Has anyone tried these on the 100 ? With which springs ?
Thanks
Richard
 
I ran the L's for a few years with OME 860s. You'll neen to capture the spring regardless of which one you choose.

N74L
Man a Fre extended links
Swapped out hardware to fit 100 Series
Fabbed my own spring retainer
Lowered bump stops 1"

Worked fine for me. I recently upgraded to the ICON CDC shocks which are the same length, but are a major improvement performance wise. To be fair, I had probably 30k miles on the OME's and never had one problem. I only have maybe 100 miles offroad with the new setup.
 
Yeees please will you dig up the threads which criticize Shotts' N74L modification?
I'm going to order the parts to perform this mod and would like to read all pros and cons.
Also, the latest version of the OME N74L is the 60072L (source: Christo Slee).
Has anyone tried these on the 100 ? With which springs ?
Thanks
Richard
Sorry, I typo'ed the shock part n number. 60071I is the rear.
 
N74L
Man a Fre extended links
Swapped out hardware to fit 100 Series
Fabbed my own spring retainer
Lowered bump stops 1"

Thank you for sharing your experience.
I'll have a go with the long-travel shocks.
Please could you elaborate:
- what's your tyre size ? Any rubbing with just 1" lower bumps ?
- what are Man a Fre extended links ? Are these mandatory with the longer shocks ?
- are the 860 springs longer than the 863 ? if not, what's the difference ? I love soft, comfy suspensions, Cadillac Eldorado style...
Have a nice day
Richard

P.S. Thanks to Christo Slee for confirming the 60071L part number
 
Tire size is just under 35" 295/70/18 MT. Yes, there is some rubbing if you're taking bigger bumps/hits at speed. A 1" body lift eliminated 95% of the rubbing. The Man a Fre extended links are for the 80 series but work with the 100 as well. Not mandatory, but why add the L shocks if you're not going to do it correctly? 860's are much softer than the 863's. Their static height may be the same, but the 860s will compress much more than the 863 based on spring rate.

It's best to completely cycle your suspension and find out where you are, then build from that point. This mod isn't going to change your life, and regardless of what you've read on here, it doesn't suddenly make your truck do things it otherwise wouldn't. It's just "another" mod. I enjoyed doing it, learned a little bit along the way and it looks cool under the right conditions, but you're not gaining some crazy amount of travel up or down.

FWIW, The ICON's stretch just as far, maybe slightly further and do it much more smoothly.
 
Tire size is just under 35" 295/70/18 MT. Yes, there is some rubbing if you're taking bigger bumps/hits at speed. A 1" body lift eliminated 95% of the rubbing. The Man a Fre extended links are for the 80 series but work with the 100 as well. Not mandatory, but why add the L shocks if you're not going to do it correctly? 860's are much softer than the 863's. Their static height may be the same, but the 860s will compress much more than the 863 based on spring rate.

It's best to completely cycle your suspension and find out where you are, then build from that point. This mod isn't going to change your life, and regardless of what you've read on here, it doesn't suddenly make your truck do things it otherwise wouldn't. It's just "another" mod. I enjoyed doing it, learned a little bit along the way and it looks cool under the right conditions, but you're not gaining some crazy amount of travel up or down.

FWIW, The ICON's stretch just as far, maybe slightly further and do it much more smoothly.

Very interesting.
Thank you again for sharing, and for being very honest about the modifications.
Many i8mud members boast their mods as revolutionary, when they are not.
I will have a go with the 60071L shocks, Man A Fre extended links, 860 springs, 315 tyres and 2" lower bump stops.
 
The Man a Fre extended links are for the 80 series but work with the 100 as well.

I want to order the Man A Fre extended links for of my 100.
As far as I understand, Man A Fre links are engineered for the 80-series, therefore these will only work for the rear axle of the 100.

I have found an interesting thread on the IFS extended links:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/longer-front-sway-bar-links-thoughts.776331/

Quick-disconnect anti-sway-bar links are quite popular with the Jeep guys, I would like to find a similar solution for the 100.

I sent a mail to WabFab to order the same QD links they have manufactured for other 100 owners:
modifica WABFAB swaybardisconnects.JPG
Their 5 words reply was quite disappointing:
"Not interested in providing these"
Not even "Hi" or "Sorry". Maybe they forgot that without off-road fans, their shop would not exist.

However the questions are:
1.- Anyone found a solution to extend the ASB links of the 100-series front IFS?
2.- Anyone can suggest a manufacturer of quick-disconnect links for the 100, front and rear ?

Thanks
Richard
 
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