Newbie Asks: So do I do this? (1 Viewer)

[Urrrk]

So I'm thinking of buying this Land Cruiser...

It's a 97 40th Anniversary Special Limited Edition with all the goodies, but no Factory Lockers, ~80k miles, totally stock, clean Carfax, clean body, clean interior (smells new) for about 18k, which seems real comparable with all the other low mileage LC's in a 50 mile radius.

Do I do this? Or just keep driving my Ford Exploder? The LC reminds me of my 89 Trooper, except way more plush. Maybe too plush. Except it doesnt squat to pee like the Exploder. Gah! Can you tell I'm feeling conflicted?

Anyhoo on to the technical questions, I've read the newbie guides and searched the archives a bit:

There's a very very slight wobble that I feel in the steering wheel under braking from 60-40 mph. Pretty much normal or sign of impending doom?

Are the supposedly high performance street brake upgrades any good for off road use? This is a heavy machine and Seattle area traffic is pretty stop and go.

If I beef up the suspension with an OME kit, is that going to make it too stiff for snow and ice driving? Sometimes you want a little more compliance in there to keep all four wheels in contact. Or maybe not. Bear in mind that my wife's car is an Audi A4, so I'm pretty up on AWD performance.

-Erik

 

[ultimauk]

Urrrk,

I'm sort of new at the LC game also (18 months) but since buying my first 80 I've added another 80, so I'm hooked.

One thing that I want to add to LC ownership is, whatever you buy I doubt that you'll really be happy with it.

I think a more healthy approach is buy cheap, and mod, repair, mod and then mod some more.

If I was a person just looking to buy a used vehicle and not mod it or become intimate maintenance wise, then you would probably be better served with a 4runner or something like it.

As for the brakes most just buy the OEM parts and for OME I have the HD stock and it can feel as if you're running down the road with a blown out tire at times (New Mexico), but on smooth dirt roads it's simply great. Oh yes the wobble could be many things but I'd suspect the wheel bearings first, I just went head to head with a Toyota dealer before they got it strighten out (hey I'm 1300 miles from home give me a break).

JMO.

 

[e9999]

So I'm thinking of buying this Land Cruiser...

It's a 97 40th Anniversary Special Limited Edition with all the goodies, but no Factory Lockers, ~80k miles, totally stock, clean Carfax, clean body, clean interior (smells new) for about 18k, which seems real comparable with all the other low mileage LC's in a 50 mile radius.

Do I do this? Or just keep driving my Ford Exploder? The LC reminds me of my 89 Trooper, except way more plush. Maybe too plush. Except it doesnt squat to pee like the Exploder. Gah! Can you tell I'm feeling conflicted?

Anyhoo on to the technical questions, I've read the newbie guides and searched the archives a bit:

There's a very very slight wobble that I feel in the steering wheel under braking from 60-40 mph. Pretty much normal or sign of impending doom?

Are the supposedly high performance street brake upgrades any good for off road use? This is a heavy machine and Seattle area traffic is pretty stop and go.

If I beef up the suspension with an OME kit, is that going to make it too stiff for snow and ice driving? Sometimes you want a little more compliance in there to keep all four wheels in contact. Or maybe not. Bear in mind that my wife's car is an Audi A4, so I'm pretty up on AWD performance.

-Erik

First, Welcome to the forum!
Second, if you'll ever want to do some real offroading, don't buy one without lockers unless it's $3,000 less than those with lockers (not the case here)
Wobble: possibly warped rotors, no biggie, a few hundred $ for new rotors.
Brakes should be fine for normal driving, they just wear fast.
Snow: somebody else will know better than I
18K: not a great deal, bit high perhaps
No comparison btwn LC and Explorer
Have fun!

 

[e9999]

Urrrk,

I'm sort of new at the LC game also (18 months) but since buying my first 80 I've added another 80, so I'm hooked.

One thing that I want to add to LC ownership is, whatever you buy I doubt that you'll really be happy with it.

I think a more healthy approach is buy cheap, and mod, repair, mod and then mod some more.

If I was a person just looking to buy a used vehicle and not mod it or become intimate maintenance wise, then you would probably be better served with a 4runner or something like it.

As for the brakes most just buy the OEM parts and for OME I have the HD stock and it can feel as if you're running down the road with a blown out tire at times (New Mexico), but on smooth dirt roads it's simply great. Oh yes the wobble could be many things but I'd suspect the wheel bearings first, I just went head to head with a Toyota dealer before they got it strighten out (hey I'm 1300 miles from home give me a break).

JMO.

uh, never happy???

I disagree with the buy cheap approach if that means high miles. I'd rather go with low miles if you think you'll ever take the thing out in the boonies. The possibility of part failure takes a different meaning when you're 100 miles into the desert. For that I gotta have extreme reliability, which is helped by low miles.

Also, one can be perfectly happy with a used LC without mod IMHO.

 

[sonoranfun]

I would say to keep walkin! While I'd be in a rush to get out of the ford I looked every day for the last monthish to find the one I just bought, fair deal on a 1996, 105k, lockers at $10,800...

1) Set rules and stick to them! No more then xxx miles, lockers and so on...

2) Start looking everyplace in the Country, just get a pre-purchase inspection...

3) Don't get emotional...

4) Remember, it's a 10 year old SUV and get REALLY bad gas milage!

Keep looking, there are better deals for sure!

 

[willmaxr]

that price is $3k too high +/- esp without lockers. (for my area anyway) searching for a LC is a fun trip, don't rush.

 

[97cruiser]

Erik, For comparison. I bought my 97Landcruiser 3 yrs. ago in Woodinville (Seattle suburb) for 20,000. I probably could have talked the guy down but it was THE one I had been lookin for. Lockers, superclean, 2 owner and 80,000 miles with all maintenance records.

One thing people on this board may not know is that Seattle is gonna have higher car prices than most of the country. Keep that in mind when lookin at prices non-local.

I would think you could bring him down in price with that wobble.

Oh and if you think you may be doin some off-roading hold out for lockers. They are pretty amazing and don't add to the price of a used Landcreuiser. YET!!

Good Luck, Vince

 

[Cookiemonster]

If your "set" on this to get away from the Ford, make an offer for considerably less, to cover te wobble, and cost of installing lockers. Chances are he won't bite, but you never know ones modivation to sell.

Example: About 15yrs ago a buddy of mine was looking at Volvos when he noticed an add for a turbo wagon with less than 10k on it. The asking price was $100.00. He figured it had been totalled or something.

He called on it and was told by the woman selling it that she had bought it for her husband earlier that year, and that since he had ran away with another woman she was selling off "his half" as part of the divorce.

Unfortunately she had already sold it off.

 

[cruiserdan]

Too much coin.

 

[NorCalDoug]

Okay...let me buck conventional wisdom this time around...

You're currently driving an Explorer. You used to drive a Trooper. I'm going to go way out on a limb and guess that you're NOT planning on taking this new-to-you rig on anything more serious than a "fire" road any time soon. No plans for traversing up over large rocks or through deep mud pits? If this is the case, then don't sweat the lockers. You can add them later -- yes, you will end up around $2,000 to $3,000 poorer, but I know of plenty who have done this and are more than happy with their 80s.

The wobble during braking could be a couple different things -- rotors, bearings...don't know. If it's very slight, it's probably not a big deal, but what ever it is, you should get it checked out if you end up purchasing this rig.

Prices vary from region to region. If you think this is a reasonable price for your area, then it probably is. When comparing prices, make sure you include the LX 450 in the mix as well -- essentially the same rig and depending on where you live, the price MIGHT be lower for a similarly equipped rig. FWIW, I think the price is a bit too high.

Beware, there are some "mock" 40th Anniversary models. Make sure you're getting what's being advertised. The 40th Anniversary came in 2 (maybe 3 color options) and had 2-tone leather seats.

I'd suggest that you try working the price down a bit...but sometimes the price is what it is. Unless you're willing to travel farther than 50 miles, out of state and/or across the country -- you're going to pay what your local market demands. Check nada, kelly blue book, and edmunds to get an idea of it's "value". In the end -- it's your money -- spend it as you wish...as long as you're happy with your purchase, that's all that really matters.

Whatever you do...get the hell out of that POS Exploder...god I hate those things...


Oh...almost forgot...

Welcome aboard

 

[ultimauk]

uh, never happy???

I disagree with the buy cheap approach if that means high miles. I'd rather go with low miles if you think you'll ever take the thing out in the boonies. The possibility of part failure takes a different meaning when you're 100 miles into the desert. For that I gotta have extreme reliability, which is helped by low miles.

Also, one can be perfectly happy with a used LC without mod IMHO.

"uh, never happy???"

I said, "I doubt that you'll really be happy"

I left room for the 1% by saying "doubt", so I included you specifically!

As for the boonies statement, some of us do their own maintenance so I have 100% more faith in my work (300k) than a unknown maintained vehicle driven 80k and then driven out to the "boonies".


"Also, one can be perfectly happy with a used LC without mod IMHO."

Seek professional help now!

 

[e9999]

snip

As for the boonies statement, some of us do their own maintenance so I have 100% more faith in my work (300k) than a unknown maintained vehicle driven 80k and then driven out to the "boonies".


"Also, one can be perfectly happy with a used LC without mod IMHO."

Seek professional help now!

well, what do you think is less likely to fail 100 miles in the desert:
- an 80K one well-maintained by yourself
or
- a 300K one well-maintained by yourself
?


I'll discuss the need for professional help with my shrink...!

 

[Fly Rod]

UrrrK,

Welcome! I know where you are at on this one, I just went through it. There was a locked one owner 96 with 100k in Bellingham that I almost flew up to check out. It was on consignment for $14k and I was told the owner was "motivated" to sell. I don't know if it is still available but I think it was at Sterling Motors. I ened up buying a clean 95 with lockers, loaded interior with 90k for $11,500 asking price was $14,000. I am not saying your LC is over priced because a used vehicles value is set by the buyer. I just thought you might learn from others purchases.

If you aren't going rock crawling or mud bogging an unlocked truck is fine. But as others have stated, the price quoted may be appropriate for a pristine rig that is locked and had no issues, including brakes.

FWIW,

Fly Rod

 

[PACNW96]

I would definitely prefer a well maintained 80 without lockers compared to a poorly maintained 80 with lockers. I guess you need to ask yourself do you need lockers? I have had several Toyota 4x4's and never needed lockers in the past so it wasn't on the top of my list.

Price really depends on were you are located. As previsously discussed in this forum prices vary wildly depending on your location. In my area in Seattle Autotrader has several for $17k-$19k with similar miles (80k ish). Not to say that is too much though, but seems to be the going rate here.

In summary find the best condition, lowest mileage 80 you can find for the price with the options you want. Good luck.

P.S. Paid $17k for mine, but had exterior/interior color I wanted, 1 owner @ 77k. Had to drive 4 hours each way to pick it up and it was worth it.

Russell

 

[EDPA]

LCs are expensive in this area for some reason. I don't think that is too high a price in Seattle if it is in perfect or near-perfect condition. I paid 21K about a year ago for a 97 with lockers and 60K miles. It was EXACTLY what I was looking for though. The truck just had it's 60K tune-up and was in about as perfect condition as you could get for a used vehicle. I agree with NorCalDoug. If you are mainly sticking to fire roads and not rock crawling or going through mud pits you don't need lockers.....they're nice to have though, just in case.

 

[Romer]

To high a price. A comparable one with ~90K miles and lockers or an equivelant LX450 can be had for about $14K if your patient.

Lockers aren't just for offroad. I was in Brekenridge during a snow storm last winter and very few vehicle could move without sliding. I turned on my lockers and was able to navigate safely

 

[ultimauk]

well, what do you think is less likely to fail 100 miles in the desert:
- an 80K one well-maintained by yourself
or
- a 300K one well-maintained by yourself
?


I'll discuss the need for professional help with my shrink...!

80k for $14,000 + $1000 for maintenance

300k for $5000 + $10,000 for maintenance and mods

I go for $5000 everytime.

Can I get that number for your shrink?

 

[Fochdog]

If I beef up the suspension with an OME kit, is that going to make it too stiff for snow and ice driving? Sometimes you want a little more compliance in there to keep all four wheels in contact. Or maybe not. Bear in mind that my wife's car is an Audi A4, so I'm pretty up on AWD performance.

-Erik

Welcome

As far as snow & ice performance you can't go wrong. From '93 to '97 the truck had a full-time t-case with a differential and viscous coupling across the front and rear prop shafts and ABS. I had mine through one nasty Michigan winter so far, with LT285/75R16 BFG All-terrains (my DD tire). No complaints. Keep in mind however, this is an older vehicle without some of the newer safety features like Electronic Stability Control (ESC) which can really be nice in some cases.

With either the OEM or OME suspension you would never lift a wheel during any icy or snowy conditions. They both are very flexy with tons of rebound travel and low roll rates. Also, you just can't generate the lateral acceleration to roll the vehicle enough to be a concern during these conditions.

The only time you might lift a wheel is during an emergency lane change on a hign mu surface.

 

[Urrrk]

With either the OEM or OME suspension you would never lift a wheel during any icy or snowy conditions. They both are very flexy with tons of rebound travel and low roll rates. Also, you just can't generate the lateral acceleration to roll the vehicle enough to be a concern during these conditions.

Whoa. Let me just say I'm overwhelmed with the response. Thanks, guys.

Sounds like I don't have much to worry about suspension wise. But I do have to figure out if I really want the factory lockers and if I want to get a good deal.

While I really like the idea of factory lockers, I'm not sure I'd value that more than a sunroof. Don't get many sunny days up here, y'know, and it's not like I need to lock'em up to get to work every morning (it's would be kinda cool if I did though.)

I would like to do more 4-wheeling, but I don't think I'm going to test the limits of my vehicle the way some of you guys do. It is my daily driver after all.

I'll see what I can do about the price, but my son loves it and my wife told me I look hot driving it around, so basically, I'm hosed.

-E

 

[NorCalDoug]

...I would like to do more 4-wheeling, but I don't think I'm going to test the limits of my vehicle the way some of you guys do. It is my daily driver after all...

So is mine.
That's the great thing about the 80 series. Super-tough off road rig and daily driver all rolled into one.