newb from australia (1 Viewer)

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May 3, 2009
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australia
after looking at this ultimate cruiser site, finally decided it was time to register. has been really helpful with my current 60. she is a 1986 hj61 that sees current abuse. runs 35 bfg, front and rear arb lockers, arb lift, crawler gears in the transfer case, winch, resident engel fridge to keep the beers cold with that never say die 12ht. Anyway having trouble chasing a vacuum leak ( causing issues with braking, have got four wheel discs with four runner calipers up front). Just interested if anybody has a trick in chasing down the leak on a diesel where the vacuum is made from the alternator. cheers plumma
 
...with that never say die 12ht. Anyway having trouble chasing a vacuum leak...

Sounds like one very nice rig. Try posting in the Diesel Tech section...

Photos of rig ??
 
Welcome,join your local cruiser club,great source for help and fun. Mike
 
after looking at this ultimate cruiser site, finally decided it was time to register. has been really helpful with my current 60. she is a 1986 hj61 that sees current abuse. runs 35 bfg, front and rear arb lockers, arb lift, crawler gears in the transfer case, winch, resident engel fridge to keep the beers cold with that never say die 12ht. Anyway having trouble chasing a vacuum leak ( causing issues with braking, have got four wheel discs with four runner calipers up front). Just interested if anybody has a trick in chasing down the leak on a diesel where the vacuum is made from the alternator. cheers plumma

The vac system is simple: Vac pump at the back of the alt, has an input line into the vac canister, which connects to the brake booster (and clutch booster, if you have one).
The pump itself can only leak at the connections, but it can wear out. make sure the hoses are good and on tight there.
The vac canister has valves that allow air to be sucked out, but prevent air from going back into the canister from the pump side. check these, they can go bad and then you cannot maintain a vacuum well. Also make sure the canister has no pinholes/rust holes. it is easiest to simply take it out, pressurize it and hold it under water. this will tell you about the valves too.
then check the hoses to the booster(s).
and finally, the boosters can of course be bad. the preliminary test is to keep the foot on the brake when you start up the truck. the pedal should sink a little, as soon as you get vacuum. the other test is to shut the truck down, and then pump the brakes. you should get a hard pedal after a few pumps, when you run out of vacuum. this is better described in the FSM under the brake section.
cheers,
Jan
 
X2 the booster for sneaky, hard to find leaks. Just found one on my clutch booster, it's the front seal of the booster (just unbolt and slide the master cylinder forward, and it's in the booster recess, held in with a spring washer). Mine had ripped the rod actuator boot right off (rotten rubber). Toyota North America doesn't stock the seal (on a post 85 I'm pretty sure the brake boost seal and clutch boost seal are the same) any more, but are trying to get me one from Japan.... Quick fix was to seal the master to the face of the booster. Just keep an eye on it, cause if you have any brake fluid leakage, it'll fill up the booster (cause you've sealed up the drain chamber). But it'll restore your boost!
Good luck!
 

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