New tow points on 80 series front frame rails (1 Viewer)

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Working on a design for my new front bumper. Trying to keep the clearance at it's maximum and keep it tucked in as far as I can go. With this in mind, I'm thinking of somehow attaching a rod through (from one side of frame rail to other side of same rail) with a shackle latched around. Maybe it would be a threaded bolt instead of a rod, but you get the point. The idea would then be to have hollowed out some of the front of the bumper to allow reaching this.

Not sure if the above is a totally accurate description of what I'm trying to do, but does that make sense so far? I'm really looking for other options to keep the tow point, or snatch point, as high up as possible. Not only for clearance, but also in case trying to winch over ledges etc.

Thanks and :flipoff2: :D :D
 
I would cut the standard hole through the bumper that you do to weld a tow point in front and rear in a bumper....but I would make it longer.

Go back with it just inside the frame rail and either drill or line up with a stock hole and bolt that sucker there in addition to welding into the front and rear of whatever you are running up front. You can make that higher up on the rail...and it will hold a boatload.
 
Hey Junk, have you looked at readers ride pics? The last pic in the 80's section name on the pic is Eric V, His front tube bumper is one of the best i've seen for clearence, mabee will spark some ideas. Let me know what you come up with, i'm also looking for front bumper options with clearence/approach angle in mind.
 
Junk,

Couple comments. First, mounting a shackle in the center of a bolt produces a tremendous amount of force in shear that will bend that bolt or other rod type mount. Look at other tow mounts and you'll see they're secured at the HEAD of a bolt so that the fastener is properly used to provide clamping force that creates enough friction to prevent movement. Some mounts of the weaker variety have the bolts in line with the pull, but the better ones have the bolt at right angles to the direction of pull. In sum, your proposal would rely upon the bolt not bending in the center, which is not sound engineering. Of course, if you make the bolt thick enough and reinforce the frame rails so it won't tear the frame walls, it will be perfectly sound. For example, a shackle with a 3/4 inch pin is also relying upon the bending strength of the pin just like your proposal and they obviously work out just fine. So, go thick or go home...

Secondly, mounting the recovery point high to get up ledges would be counter intuitive. If you're trying to lift the front of the truck, a lower mount would provide upward force on a pull to get over a ledge.

DougM
 
Thanks guys. Continually seeking to find more ideas on this.

Doug - related to your comment on the ledges, actually experience has taught me just the opposite. I want the point high. The problem with down low is when you anchor to a tree or another truck, it's close to the ground. So if your truck has it's tow hook near the bottom, you are being pulled into the obstacle. It's hard to describe and much easier if you see it. The angle of pull would be better if a little higher. Note, I 'm not saying a lot higher, just a little higher. I'd go with a low mounted one if I could get a good anchor point 10' in front of me 10' off the ground.

More ideas anyone? I have a few more days to continue thinking about this one.
 
JUNK HOW MANY BUMPERS ARE YOU GOING TO PUT ON YOUR TRUCK YOU HAD MORE THAN ONE ARB THEN SLEE NOW ARB THEN YOU MAKE ONE NOW YOU ASK ABOUT BOLTS AND TOW POINTS DO YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING OR EVEN WHAT YOU WANT HOW MANY OTHER PEOPLE DO THE SAME THING DO THEY KNOW WHAT THEY WANT OR DO THEY CHANGE THEIR MIND ALL THE TIME LIKE WHAT BUMPER WHAT WINCH WHAT TIRE

I GO HAVE MORE :beer:
 
Ouch, all the shouting...... :rolleyes: Um, you forgot the question marks.

Junks head is so big he has to go outside to change his mind. :flipoff2:

(He spends a lot of time outdoors)
 
I SEE JUNK SOON AND HE HAS A BIG ASS TO GO WITH HIS FAT HEAD BUT I DON'T KNOW WHY HE CHANGED BUMPERS SO MUCH WHEN HE TELLS ME I SHOULD JUST SHUT UP AND EITHER BUY ARB OR SLEE I JUST WANT TO NOT BUY STUFF MORE TIMES
 
My hooks are mounted below at the moment on my bumper. It is a flaw. My frame on the 91 is tapped to mount the hooks on top of the frame and to the sides of the frame. It is my intent to move my hooks to the sides of the frame as soon as it warms up a bit. A local guy welds solid shaft Ts to his bumpers in a variety of spots. He just slips the tow straps over the Ts when he needs a tug. I thought for sure they would fold over the first time you yanked on them but amazingly they don't. However this is on an 85 4 runner not a heavyweight Cruiser.
 
[quote author=cruiserdan link=board=2;threadid=9744;start=msg86334#msg86334 date=1073513184]
Junks head is so big he has to go outside to change his mind. :flipoff2:[/quote]

Hey, I resemble that remark. :flipoff2: Actually am measured at the 99th percentile for head size :eek: - measured by a doc right after my son was born. :-\ Told him it was all that vast knowledge I was storing for a rainy day like his wife's phone number. :flipoff2:

Gineric - yeah, the side was something I was considering too. From what I can remember though, those bolts are not as thick as the top and bottom. Not sure, but I think that's the case.\

Big Man - hope you got home ok dude. I think you scared a few folks tonight. :-X
 
That is why the picture my mom had of you looked so funny. :flipoff2:
 
Whats that Lang calls it Junk ? The divided self ... does that make Big Man your alter ego ?? haha . And don't be dissssin Rogue's avatar , he's got the coolest one going ! That cat mainlines tequila ;)
 
Junk,

>> Actually am measured at the 99th percentile for head size <<

I'm guessing left side of the curve? :D

Can you wear those OSFA caps?

-B-
 

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