New to the land cruiser community (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Oct 16, 2020
Threads
5
Messages
23
Location
Laurel,ms
Picked up our first land cruiser a couple of months ago. My son will be driving it while in college, and then it will come home to me. I think it is in good running order. Hope to use it as his daily, and for some light trails. It is triple locked with over 200k miles. PO had added bumper, rock sliders, roof rack, dual battery set up and OME leveling kit. We have fixed a few interior and exterior light bulbs, but nothing else yet. We will probably address the audio next.
I do have one question though. There is an after market switch on the dash. Wires come out of it and run to the battery and the diff fuse. What could this be for?
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Dumb question but did you try pressing the button? If it goes to the Diff fuse perhaps it's a poor mans center diff lock or there is an issue with the factory diff lock selector that won't show up until you try to engage them.

And nice looking rig. Your son should love it.
 
IPF on the lights. IPF on the switch. That would be the lights up front on the bumper.

Welcome. Lots of knowledge here for you to prep it for your son and also for him to take care of it himself as well. Check out the FAQ sticky and read up. Otherwise post up the obsticles You come across. It’s been discussed here at some point.
 
IPF on the lights. IPF on the switch. That would be the lights up front on the bumper.

Welcome. Lots of knowledge here for you to prep it for your son and also for him to take care of it himself as well. Check out the FAQ sticky and read up. Otherwise post up the obsticles You come across. It’s been discussed here at some point.
The IPF switch does go to the lights on the bumper. The center diff seems to work as designed. The switch is at the bottom left corner of the center console. I have flipped it in a bunch of doesn't situations, but cannot tell a difference.
 
Welcome to MUD and the obsession. Great vehicle for you son in college. Safe, hauls lots of gear, and will fun on the weekends. It would be a great drive-in vehicle if there were any left.
 
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I strongly suggest you change that heater valve at soonest opportunity.
When they get that nasty brown color they are ready to disintegrate with the slightest provocation.

Really good looking rig, looks like it has most of the cool kid mods already done, he's gonna love it!
Might want to think about loosing the tail light "protectors". They are notorious for snagging branches and actually breaking the tail lenses.
 
Sorry, guess I thought you meant the switch in the picture and didn't pay attention to the lights having the same logo.

That the wires go to the diff fuse (and by this I take it to mean the differential lock fuse) suggest that the switch has something to do with engaging and disengaging the lockers. Looking at the wiring diagram for my truck having a wire go from the battery to the 30AMP Diff fuse only serves to bypass the ignition switch for both the CDL and FR, RR lockers. With the truck running and the switch off are you able to engage the lockers? Have you pulled the wire from the switch at the fuse and tested to see if you still have 12V at the input side of the fuse?
 
I would also install some grommets in the large openings in both battery boxes so the battery cables and other wiring does not get chaffed. If not the OEM grommets split some rubber tubing and make your own.
 
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I strongly suggest you change that heater valve at soonest opportunity.
When they get that nasty brown color they are ready to disintegrate with the slightest provocation.

Spotted that right away too. Definitely needs replacing. The portion under the hoses are usually worse than the body, so if the body of the heater valve looks like that....you know the rest is getting crumbly.

Nice that it has a dual battery set up.
 
Brake fluid is supposed to be water clear, not black coffee.
I can't tell you how many customers i had over the years that though that brake fluid was supposed to be brown in color. They though that it was that color so they could tell how much fluid was in the master cylinder. I'd tell them the same thing you said, the fluid is supposed to be clear, and to keep their brake system healthy they needed to have it flushed every 2 years with clean fluid.
 
...and kill all the critters living under your hood insulation :frown:
 
Brake fluid is supposed to be water clear, not black coffee. The darker the fluid gets, the more contaminated it is.


And dip your finger in it then put a drop on a clean piece of white paper.

Just cause the reservoir is brown/black doesn't mean the fluid is, they are often stained from previous owners not servicing the fluid.

Cheers
 
Buy your son a used Civic or Corolla, and keep the 80 for yourself. Pass it down to him when you’re good and ready. Welcome to MUD!
 
I am hoping once my son is through with college, he will want something a little newer and he can keep his old 80 at his dad's house. Then I can have my turn to play.
I had the brake fluid replaced yesterday, and am picking up the heater valve today, so we have what I hope is a simple little project for tomorrow.
Right now the rear driver's side door won't lock and the passenger window moves a little slow. I have read about both issues on here, but am a little tentative to start taking locks and window tracks apart and cleaning them. But I guess that is part of the fun?
 
I’m new here also and have gotten a ton from the historical posts. Already saved me $$ and time.
Buddha Cruiser:
1997, bone stock 320k, daily driver for PO who was 2nd owner. In great shape and ready for more.
Ironman suspension going on next month, new tires after the snow season.
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