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Hello, just purchased a 1993 LC with 239k.
I'm having a few issues lol! I did a spark plug and wire change she runs rough at 650rpm (intermittently)she was not doing that before the change. I used ngk wires and oem plugs. I cleaned throttle body and bottle of seafoam in fuel tank.
I also feel my mpg could be at 9 or 10 is that normal?
I have no history on the LC at all.

It threw codes 26 and 27. Where should I go from here?

Also I lost my heat or should I say very weak.
It looks as if the HCV is working. It spins back and forth could it be internally faulty? Could these problems be in twinned? Fan blows strong and AC works.

Also on a bright note I did a 3" eibach lift kit it looks awesome.

I am completely new at this I apologize in advance for dumb qustions.

Resized_IMG_20210228_145005_865.jpeg
 
Where to start, first off if you bought this truck because you were looking for something that got good gas mileage, you picked the wrong truck. My stock 94 gets 9, to 11 miles to the gallon, no matter how i drive it.

As for your check engine codes you need to buy a Factory service manual if you haven't already. Inside it's pages you'll find a wealth of information on how to trouble shoot those codes. If you don't want to buy a manual I've linked to 2 pages below where you can down load a copy for free.

A Code 26 is the air fuel ratio is running rich, and a code 27 is a oxygen sensor signal problem in oxygen sensor #1. As for your ruff idle problem, that very well may be related to both of your code issues. I posted a few links below that you may find helpful.

To speed up you're trouble shooting of you're problems, start off by reading post #13 first in the thread below, that'll take you straight to the problem i found with my O2 sensors and how to fix it. Oh ya, i almost forgot, welcome to Mud


 
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If you dumped Seafoam in the tank and depending on how you cleaned the TB, you will throw codes like that.

Seafoam is evil.

If you unhooked the battery, it will hunt for the correct RPM until it "resets".

Drive it a while, pull the EFI fuse under the hood for 5 minutes to clear all codes and start over.
 
Good looking rig and welcome to the fold/addiction. I don't know if seafoam works or not but I do know that seafoam will cause a rough idle. Run a couple tanks of good 91 octane from chevron, sinclair, or shell through the engine and see what happens.

I am sure a bunch of us are curiois about the quality and longevity of the eimbach kit so please keep us updated with the install. Some before and after height #'s would be awesome.

But before you do the lift I would recommend making sure the brakes are 100% and changing all of the fluids and filters.

Goodluck
 
Codes 26 and 27 can usually be solved with new O2 sensors...which are now discontinued by Mr. Yota. Aftermarket ones are available.
 
If you messed with the vacuum lines I would definitely check them as well. Dry rot or failure to reconnect. I'm bad about that.
 
People are quick to tell you their bad experiences with products. While I am leery of any miracle oil in an automobile. I have heard good reviews on seafoam in small engine applications. Lawn mowers push mowers no emissions motors.I wouldn't think twice to put it in a piece of crap push mower
 
Your heat cool blending door is controlled by vacuum diaphragm I think. Poor vacuum it won't idle worth a crap.
 
Saga continues , I cleared the codes, used LC 2 commute 2 work 84 mile round trip.
On the trip home check engine light came on it was code 71.
Is this worth fixing? Replacing part/buy block off kit?
Tried taking the egr off and I couldnt figure it out.

Also I added antifreeze then burped and heat came back
 
Also I added antifreeze then burped and heat came back
You need to keep an eye on that coolant situation. If your truck is low on antifreeze (in this case no coolant in the heater core) while showing no external leaks that's never a good sign. Because coolant doesn't evaporate, so it's got to be going somewhere. Hopefully it was just low, because the PO didn't fill the cooling system all the way full.
 
Wow 13 posts and no official salute:flipoff2: welcome to mud. now get your wallet ready.

Nice looking REG . Were a visual group post more pictures, before and after lift pictures.
 
Hello, just purchased a 1993 LC with 239k.
I'm having a few issues lol! I did a spark plug and wire change she runs rough at 650rpm (intermittently)she was not doing that before the change. I used ngk wires and oem plugs. I cleaned throttle body and bottle of seafoam in fuel tank.
I also feel my mpg could be at 9 or 10 is that normal?
I have no history on the LC at all.

It threw codes 26 and 27. Where should I go from here?

Also I lost my heat or should I say very weak.
It looks as if the HCV is working. It spins back and forth could it be internally faulty? Could these problems be in twinned? Fan blows strong and AC works.

Also on a bright note I did a 3" eibach lift kit it looks awesome.

I am completely new at this I apologize in advance for dumb qustions.

View attachment 2601001

Since it's a DD and you're running a 3" lift, make sure you do the caster correction on the front. Can make is squirrely in hard braking and adverse weather if you don't. And welcome - :flipoff2:
 
Welcome to MUD!

Most folks here will tell you, “maintenance before mods”. Better money spent.

I have been driving my 97 LX since the end of January with no stereo and let me tell you, I don’t love it. But I do love working on my own vehicle. I am learning quickly with these trucks you either need to be rich or resourceful. Hopefully you are one or both of those things.
 
If it ran fine before plugs and wires. Then you need to recheck the wires, grounds and any vacuum or wires you were near when you did the work.

You didn't mention dealing with the heater hoses when you did cylinder 6 sparkplug and wire, did you get someone else to do the change for you, i would suspect that the coolant loss was related to disconnecting and moving those hoses while doing the sparkplug change. not everyone can change their 6th spark plug without removing some hoses.

You also need the ecu to learn again etc of power was off of it. In addition I would not recommend putting any additives in gas or oil or anywhere until you've had a few oil changes under your belt of ownership as you could be releasing any kind of buildup that could be substantial and damaging.

If you get a rig that was "add oil only" then you either open it up and clean it out or you change oil enough that it self cleans safely over time. People trying to clean our huge amounts of buildup fast get all kinds of issues, some are really bad.

If it is running well when you buy it you still get new wires and plugs and store them in the vehicle, not install right away. Just like you keep the longest wire of your old ones and some spare plugs after you change them. In short you likely did something to introduce the rough idle so review your work.

Be sure to make sure all injectors are injecting(clicking) of course you could have clogged one by using seafoam so early etc.
 
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