New to the 100 series. advise needed (1 Viewer)

[xtreemathlete]

First time poster and new member.
I have recently purchased a 2002 Land Cruiser with 248k miles. It is my first LC. Ive had three adventure vans and a few Jeeps. I did a carfax and received some of the prior maintenance records but couldn't come up with the timing belt records. My immediate purchase list included timing belt, water pump, thermostat, tensioner bracket, pulleys, serpentine belt, front axles, upper control arms, outer tie rods, OME (medium 400lbs) torsion bars springs and shocks, sway bar links, tires, alternator, new brakes pads, rotors, and calipers, new parking brake kit and pads, used replacement seats and upper hatch. I topped off power steering fluid, changed the oil, flushed the radiator and replaced coolant. I drained diff fluid and replaced gear oil. A brake line burst and was replaced as well as new brake fluid. After diving into the timing belt it became evident that it had been done already most likely within the last 20k miles. I proceeded with the new belt because I was already in there. Ive done all of these installs and have a few questions. One of the front axles twisted upon installation and within 20 miles of driving it ejected all the grease and causes a violent vibration over 40 mph. I ordered another axle to swap it out to confirm that is why it is vibrating. The Old Man Emu kit that I purchased indicated it was for up to a 2 inch increase in ride hight. When I installed the new springs and shocks it lifted the back center of hub to fender 2" (24" center to fender). The front however can only be factory ride height for the alignment to be within specs (21" center to fender) What else would I need to increase the front around 2 more inches to have a more level ride height? Do I need height limiting straps? if so what kind? Im at a point in which I don't want to invest much more in parts. The ride is so much more stiff which should soften up some with additional weight which may come from bumpers and spare tire relocation to rear bumper. Im considering replacing the new OME springs with the factory springs I took off to level the ride or soften it up. Is the increased height in the back going to need additional parts to smooth out the ride? Thanks in advance for any advise or help.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

I'd invest in some paragraphs or bullet points, lol.

But really -

CV - was it OEM?
Lift - no reason you shouldn't be able to lift the front end too and keep the alignment within close spec, majority of trucks on here are running that same lift and are aligned properly.
No reason for limiting straps, but do keep a small amount of droop in the front otherwise you'll have the suspension top out over speed bumps, etc.
Lift springs will be stiffer, and can be really stiff depending on which ones you get.

Browse through the FAQ for more info on lifts and welcome.

 

[jLB]

From memory, stock front height is ~19.5”. Your front at 21.0” would be ~1.5” over stock.

A diff drop might help with CV axle angles.

Aftermarket UCAs might help with alignment.

The last time I ran OME shocks on a 100 series, “full droop” in the front was ~23.75”. For the vehicle to ride/handle/function properly, you need a minimum of 50mm (2”) of droop, and 70mm (2.75”) is better.

Lifting the front of your vehicle 2 more inches, would leave you with ~0.75” of droop (without major changes to the front suspension).

 

[xtreemathlete]

the cv's I purchased are not OEM. no warranty because I tossed the box. thanks for your in

From memory, stock front height is ~19.5”. Your front at 21.0” would be ~1.5” over stock.

A diff drop might help with CV axle angles.

Aftermarket UCAs might help with alignment.

The last time I ran OME shocks on a 100 series, “full droop” in the front was ~23.75”. For the vehicle to ride/handle/function properly, you need a minimum of 50mm (2”) of droop, and 70mm (2.75”) is better.

Lifting the front of your vehicle 2 more inches, would leave you with ~0.75” of droop (without major changes to the front suspension).

I wish I knew I needed aftermarket UCA before I installed OEM replacements. Thanks for the stock specs. Ill most likely be reinstalling the stock springs.

I'd invest in some paragraphs or bullet points, lol.

But really -

CV - was it OEM?
Lift - no reason you shouldn't be able to lift the front end too and keep the alignment within close spec, majority of trucks on here are running that same lift and are aligned properly.
No reason for limiting straps, but do keep a small amount of droop in the front otherwise you'll have the suspension top out over speed bumps, etc.
Lift springs will be stiffer, and can be really stiff depending on which ones you get.

Browse through the FAQ for more info on lifts and welcome.

From memory, stock front height is ~19.5”. Your front at 21.0” would be ~1.5” over stock.

A diff drop might help with CV axle angles.

Aftermarket UCAs might help with alignment.

The last time I ran OME shocks on a 100 series, “full droop” in the front was ~23.75”. For the vehicle to ride/handle/function properly, you need a minimum of 50mm (2”) of droop, and 70mm (2.75”) is better.

Lifting the front of your vehicle 2 more inches, would leave you with ~0.75” of droop (without major changes to the front suspension).

what kind of diff drop would you recommend?

 

[jLB]

I wish I knew I needed aftermarket UCA before I installed OEM replacements. Thanks for the stock specs. Ill most likely be reinstalling the stock springs.

Which rear springs did you purchase OME 860 (2860)?

If so, I usually see ~22.5-22.75” in the rear on a stock weight vehicle with those springs. What other aftermarket gear do you have in/on the vehicle?

 

[jLB]

what kind of diff drop would you recommend?

OE CV axles, and Slee/Trail Tailor/Dobinsons/Ironman/etc, whichever is on sale, and in stock.

 

[xtreemathlete]

Which rear springs did you purchase OME 860 (2860)?

If so, I usually see ~22.5-22.75” in the rear on a stock weight vehicle with those springs. What other aftermarket gear do you have in/on the vehicle?

not sure of the model # but they indicated the medium weight (400lbs) springs and torsion bars) so far I have no extra weight. I have an army 3/4 ton trailer I tow regularly as well as a hitch receiver bike rack that can accommodate bikes and e bikes which would add a few hundred pounds to the rear. otherwise coolers, dogs, kayaks and gear will go inside and up top.

 

[jLB]

not sure of the model # but they indicated the medium weight (400lbs) springs and torsion bars) so far I have no extra weight. I have an army 3/4 ton trailer I tow regularly as well as a hitch receiver bike rack that can accommodate bikes and e bikes which would add a few hundred pounds to the rear. otherwise coolers, dogs, kayaks and gear will go inside and up top.

To my knowledge, generally all of the US OME kits use the same torsion bars. Medium 1.5” generally indicates OME 865/2865 rear coil springs. Medium 2” or 2.5” generally indicates OME 860/2860 rear coil springs.

The 865 springs have given us ~22” in the rear on an unloaded mostly stock 100. They the same spring rate as the 860, but shorter overall length. Fully loaded with the 865s I suspect that the rear will drop more than you’d like.

 

[medtro]

the cv's I purchased are not OEM. no warranty because I tossed the box. thanks for your in

Most company uses receipt for warranty, not box.