New to my LC200, Need New Brakes, Oil Change, Air Filter, and Cabin Filter. Suggestions? (1 Viewer)

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mycars

mycars

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Hello Fellow Mudders,

I have a 2013 LC and it's due for some maintenance... namely new front brakes (pads and rotors), an oil change, a new engine air filter, and a new cabin air filter. I'm assuming the air filters are pretty basic items, but if anyone has recommendations on those I am open to suggestions.

For the oil change, the only kit I could find online was at Blau Parts for $125. Does that sound right? Here is the kit. Or do most people just buy all of the supplies separately?
And a big thanks to @BigDouggieDoug for his thorough post on how to do the oil change. I am not a big DIY-er but very much want to learn so this will be extremely helpful when I'm doing the oil change.

For the pads and rotors, lots of options out there. Do people like to stay with OEM or prefer aftermarket? It looks like the StopTech ones are out of stock on Tire Rack but the Bosch front rotors are available and look closer to OEM. What are people's thoughts on drilled and slotted rotors? I understand the reasoning and purpose of the design, but my dumb brain tells me they're typically on high performance sports cars. Am I wrong in thinking it's kind of weird to put drill and slotted rotors on an LC?

Has anyone used PowerStop brakes? They have a kit online for about $250 at Rock Auto. Thoughts on this?

Again, I am new to the wonderful world of LCs and am a DIY novice so I appreciate any and all help. Thank you!
 
Assuming you’re factory (not overloaded, etc), I’d stick to OEM. Toyota rotors/pads, and same for engine and cabin filter. Ordering online will get you the best prices. When I was feeling fancy I went to TRD pads, but kept stock rotors. Also consider the charcoal cabin filter from Toyota.

For engine oil I think your kit is fine - keeping a good interval is, in my mind, the most important.

cabin filter: 8713950100
 
04UZJ100 said:
OEM everything and M1 5W30
Click to expand...

OEM everything aside from pads IMO and you are good. Lots of pad recommendations on the board.

OEM pads will still be the smoothest but they will deposit depending on how you drive.
 
When you do the cabin filter, remember to put the system in RECIRCULATE.
 
My new to me LX with 78k had OEM rotors that vibrated violently with heavier braking and the service report had multiple trips to the dealer with this complaint as early as 30k. I believe I have read other complaints about OEM rotors being problematic so I replaced with Powerstop and have 2k miles so I can't really give any conclusions. It does have a firmer bite in when initiating braking compared to what was on there before (old pads looked brand new).

As others have stated, go OEM on your filters. Shop around and don't rule out dealers as I found some parts stores had Toyota OEM oil filters for 3x the price of what the parts desk at the dealer wanted.
 
mycars said:
For the oil change, the only kit I could find online was at Blau Parts for $125. Does that sound right? Here is the kit. Or do most people just buy all of the supplies separately?
And a big thanks to @BigDouggieDoug for his thorough post on how to do the oil change. I am not a big DIY-er but very much want to learn so this will be extremely helpful when I'm doing the oil change.
Click to expand...

$125?? thats like 3 times the price of what I spend on oil change.
I buy my oil from amazon subscribe and save or walmart (pennzoil, amazonbasics etc any fully synthetic). The filter can be bought from 10$ in walmart which is high quality one. My oil costs about 30$
I dont know why you need to spend 125$.
When I order my parts from mcgeorge toyota, I usually add OEM filters for 4$ each. The washer on the drain plug, you can buy for few cents.


I use powerstop brake rotors (Slotted) and powerstop brakes. They feel a bit more crispier than the factory brakes, but this may be due to my brakes and rotors worn out enough that any new brakes and rotors feel firmer.

You can buy OEM cabin and engine air filters or buy a good brand on amazon.
When you do engine air filter, its a good idea to also clean the air intake valve and the sensor with the correct cleaners.
 
Nothinghead said:
My new to me LX with 78k had OEM rotors that vibrated violently with heavier braking and the service report had multiple trips to the dealer with this complaint as early as 30k. I believe I have read other complaints about OEM rotors being problematic so I replaced with Powerstop and have 2k miles so I can't really give any conclusions. It does have a firmer bite in when initiating braking compared to what was on there before (old pads looked brand new).

As others have stated, go OEM on your filters. Shop around and don't rule out dealers as I found some parts stores had Toyota OEM oil filters for 3x the price of what the parts desk at the dealer wanted.
Click to expand...

I had that vibration too when braking.
When I replaced the rotors and pads with powerstop, It got fixed.
MAKE SURE THE SHOP Torques the wheels correctly. Overtorqueing the wheels will make the rotors wrapped and give that vibration (As people report).
 
Although there is not hard data to back my statement: "It is better to go for a regular (cheaper) fully synthentic oil and change it more frequently like at 5k to 7k miles, than to buy extra expensive ravenol and run on it for 10k miles"
 
Nothinghead said:
My new to me LX with 78k had OEM rotors that vibrated violently with heavier braking and the service report had multiple trips to the dealer with this complaint as early as 30k. I believe I have read other complaints about OEM rotors being problematic so I replaced with Powerstop and have 2k miles so I can't really give any conclusions. It does have a firmer bite in when initiating braking compared to what was on there before (old pads looked brand new).

As others have stated, go OEM on your filters. Shop around and don't rule out dealers as I found some parts stores had Toyota OEM oil filters for 3x the price of what the parts desk at the dealer wanted.
Click to expand...

Everyone that actually uses the brakes with any real intensity will have this, same with tundras. The brakes on both platforms are an actual joke.

But the culprits are the pads. Rotors oem are good, and their aftermarket equivalents cost a lot more.
Pad slap is all thats needed most of the time.

I chose slit vented rotors because they have absolutely no air gap in my 2017 on 17s.

I may still modify the splash / dust shield air scoop and make it larger to increase cooling.
 
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