Tighe's LX570 - general thread (1 Viewer)

[Tighe]

It isn't clear from your description whether the surface is smooth prior to painting, or if you're trying to fill in imperfections with paint.

Are you using a primer? What paint are you using? What's up with the JB Weld?

If it were me, I'd use several light coats of sandable primer (with wet-sanding in-between) and get it super-smooth. The grey sandable stuff from Rustoleum is good, although I find that the green self-etching primer is best for adhering to surfaces (even plastic). I'd use a coat of green first, then use the gray sandable stuff to get the smoothness you want.

Actually, I'd vinyl wrap that sucker and be done with it.

Thanks for the reply. It's definitely just not getting smooth with my sanding. Looks and feels smooth to my touch, but once painted imperfections show through.

The JBweld was serving as a sandable surface - effectively a primer. Paint is Superwrap glossy 'sprayable vinyl'.

I think you're right though, some type of covering is likely the answer!

 

[PDoyle]

Take a quick look at this site. See if anything fits.

Finishing Creams and Burnishing Paint Finish

Shopping for a strong, resistant finishing cream or burnishing paste? Protect your at-home projects with these finishing creams and pastes from Real Milk Paint.

www.realmilkpaint.com

 

[Tighe]

Take a quick look at this site. See if anything fits.

Finishing Creams and Burnishing Paint Finish

Shopping for a strong, resistant finishing cream or burnishing paste? Protect your at-home projects with these finishing creams and pastes from Real Milk Paint.

www.realmilkpaint.com

Thanks, will check it out.

 

[Tighe]

A third attempt with JBweld as the sandable underlying surface proved good enough to call it a day for now. Not perfect, but that’s my fault.

The fact that it’s not red in color to match the wood trim on the door is OK with me because the driver’s side does the same thing- the red wood door trim dead ends into a gray AC duct, so now both sides sorta match.

 

[PJL]

Thanks @PJL for the later model wheels- I finally had some time to get them mounted. Combined with the wheel spacers I really think they improve the look compared to the chrome OEM wheels.

View attachment 2421780

Those look great!

 

[Tighe]

Finally got my ARB flat rack in. I bought I through Dirty Parts, in Culver City, CA, in case anybody is looking for an ARB dealer. I've taken my trucks to Dirty Parts for a long time and recommend them. Anyway, I didn't last 2 hours from when I picked it up to when I got to installing it.

The only issues I had was knowing how much sealant to use. Hopefully it won't leak? I ended up using way more than what is shown in the photos below...

This is the 73" ARB Flat Rack, in steel. Dirty Parts advised that in SoCal's climate, there is really no need to shell out for the aluminum version, unless I'm concerned with weight, which I'm not. The rack feels super stout, the powdercoat finish is high quality, hardware is very nice, etc. Directions were not great/a bit generic, but it's pretty straightforward. It's probably a 2 - 3 hour job for one person if you've never done it before.

Just make sure to follow the directions about loosening both bolts first so the captive 'nut' doesn't fall into the headliner!

 

[Tighe]

Baby #3 arrived a few days ago which means three kids under three. That also means 3 full size car seats.

While investigating the third row’s suitability I removed one of the outboard headrests but found it remained tethered to the seat with a steel cable. Any particular reason for this?

A little googling took me to a Sienna forum and the suggestion I saw was that the cable folds down the headrest when the auto-stow button is pushed. Is it safe to assume this applies to the LX as well? Any way to remove it without cutting the cable?

 

[grinchy]

Have you considered the three across car seat?

 

[Tighe]

Have you considered the three across car seat?

You mean getting three slimmer seats which can be stacked three across the second row? It’s an option I suppose, but would require buying all new seats.

Haha #3 wasn’t planned...so we didn’t plan this out when seat shopping.

 

[grinchy]

You mean getting three slimmer seats which can be stacked three across the second row? It’s an option I suppose, but would require buying all new seats.

Haha #3 wasn’t planned...so we didn’t plan this out when seat shopping.

No, like this. Multimac 1000 (3 seater)

but you might be able to get three radians in, the 200 is pretty wide.

 

[Tighe]

No, like this. Multimac 1000 (3 seater)

but you might be able to get three radians in, the 200 is pretty wide.

Ah, I see. Tbh the third row functions fine for me, as I retain the flexibility of being able to take one or two car seats out when camping, cycling, surfing, etc. and more interior space is needed. Just would like to figure out the headrest thing then I’m good.

The multimac is a cool solution though and I appreciate the suggestion. I looked at them when I was shopping for a BMW I3. That car only has two rear seats, and the multimac enabled it to have three. From what I recall it’s not sanctioned for sale in the states. Ended up not buying the BMW so I did not investigate further.

 

[Tighe]

Got a 3d printed cupholder from BH3D Printing recently, and just finished putting a few coats of Superwrap on to shine it up a bit. For anyone who has removed the cupholders - any removal/installation tips? When looking at the FSM it looks like there removal of the e-brake trim precedes the removal of the cupholders. I do have a trim removal kit, but was wondering if there were any words of wisdom before I tried as I don't want to scratch anything up...

 

[PDoyle]

Just pull it straight up. What are you doing with the old one? I need a replacement .

 

[Tighe]

Just pull it straight up. What are you doing with the old one? I need a replacement .

Thanks for the reply. So just pull the stock cupholder straight up, with all other trim left in place?

Assuming the BH3D version works out I don't see any issue parting with the stock one.

 

[PDoyle]

What year is the truck? Might be a little tight sense it's the first time but yes. You can use the cover when it's open to pull. Gingerly.

 

[Tighe]

Copy that, thanks. Truck is an 08. I'll let you know when I have the stock cupholder out.

Out of curiosity - are you going back to the stock cupholder from a BH3D version?

 

[PDoyle]

I put a crack in the oem one I have now . It looks like a silver colored plate in the 14. BH3D is good Sh$t.

 

[Tighe]

Got it. Thanks again. Will update and get in touch when I make some progress.

 

[PDoyle]

You will see the E brake handle & cable. If your cable is at all stretched the adjusting nut is right there under the cup holder. I know there is another thread around with the same info.

 

[Tighe]

Thanks for the tip!